윤리적 패션디자인을 위한 상품개발 프로세스

장남경(Nam Kyung Jang) 한국복식학회 2013 服飾(복식) Vol.63 No.1

This study seeks solutions for two conflict values from the fair trade, one being fulfilling environment and social responsibility and the other being suggesting stylish designs within a reasonable price range. The purposes of this study were to establish fair-trade fashion product development process by investigating practices in fashion product development process within fair-trade company, and to identify the characteristics of fair-trade fashion product development. Qualitative research method was employed. Participant observation and in-depth interviews were conducted with practitioners working in fairtradekorea, Ltd. and producers in Bangladesh, from which case studies were compiled. The results were as follows: The case study provided evidence that fair-trade fashion product development has the same steps as practiced in general fashion brands, but has different characteristics such as fair-trade products going through a much slower process which led to early planning, having producer-centered product development, concentrating on spring/summer products, having a high cost structure, and having unpredictable quality control. Study implications and future research avenues are also discussed.

1970년대 서양복식에 나타난 동양 복식미의 다각적 분석

장남경(Nam Kyung Jang) 한국복식학회 2003 服飾(복식) Vol.53 No.1

본 연구의 목적은 (1) 1970년대 서양복식에 존재하는 오리엔탈리즘의 반향에 대해 정의하고, (2) 서양 복식을 통해 표출된 오리엔탈리즘의 의미를 당시 정치, 사회, 문화적인 측면과 연결하여 탐구하는데 있다. 이론적 틀로는 문화인류학 이론에서 유래된 Hamilton의 Unifying Metatheory of Clothing and Textile(1987)이 적용되었다. 연구 방법으로는 1970년부터 1979년까지 미국에서 발행된 총 142권의 VOGUE 잡지 중 80권을 분석하여, 오리엔탈리즘이 보여지는 45장의 패션사진을 자료로 추출한 후, 연도, 디자이너의 소속 지역, metatheory에 따라 분석하였다. 각 연도별로 오리엔탈리즘이 표현되는 정도와 방법은 다양하였다. 서양디자이너들은 동양의 전통의상을 거의 그대로 모방하거나 하나 이상의 국가들의 전통의상 디자인 요소들을 하나의 복식에 혼합, 표현하는 방법을 주로 보여주는 반면, 동양 디자이너는 전통의상을 포함한 자국의 다양한 문화적 요소들을 서양복식에 도입하여 표현하였다. 또한, 본 연구에서는 복식에서 보여지는 시각적인 면의 분석과 더불어, 1970년대 당시 미국의 정치, 사회, 문화전반의 상황과 복식에 있어서 오리엔탈리즘의 도입과의 영향관계가 파악되었다. 따라서, 복식을 연구함에 있어서 문화인류학적 이론과 같은 다른 분야의 이론의 적용은 복식을 새로운 측면에서 이해하는 넓은 안목과 통합적인 틀을 제공한다는 측면에서 가치가 있다고 사료된다.

청소년의 인터넷 사용특성에 따른 의복행동, 구매 평가기준, 정보원에 대한 연구

장남경(Nam Kyung Jang),고은주(Eun Joo Ko) 한국복식학회 2004 服飾(복식) Vol.54 No.7

The internet is one of the modern facilities that has been diffused very rapidly in recent years and tremendously influenced on our life. Although the adolescents are major users of internet. the literature in clothing and textile area has not addressed the relationships between adolescents` internet use and clothing behavior. The purpose of this study was to examine the differences of adolescents clothing behavior, purchase evaluative criteria, and information source according to the use of internet. Descriptive statistics, t test, Analysis of Variance (ANOVA), and Duncan test were employed to analyze the data collected from the convenience sample of 572 middle and high school students in Gyeongnam, Korea. The use of internet was partially related to the adolescents` clothing behaviors, purchase evaluative criteria, and information source. Also, it was observed that the frequency and purpose of fashion website tended to be related more than the amount and purpose of internet did. Marketing implications from the results were suggested.

윤리적 패션 인증제도 구축을 위한 탐색적 조사

장남경 ( Nam Kyung Jang ),이준옥 ( Jun Ok Lee ) 한국패션디자인학회 2014 한국패션디자인학회지 Vol.14 No.2

This study based on the need to suggest ways of practicing ethical fashion in the fashion industry and for evaluation tools needed to execute the methods suggested. The goals of the research were (1) to investigate domestic and international accreditation systems related to ethical fashion, (2) to define the concepts related to an accreditation system in ethical fashion based on interviews with practitioners and accrediting staffs of ethical fashion, (3) to establish the standards of an applicable ethical fashion accreditation system for promoting the implementation and cooperation of a sustainable system in the fashion industry. The results of this study are as follows; Major sub-systems of an accreditation standard are proposed as the environment, people, and cooperation, and these three sub-systems establish the concept of an ethical fashion accreditation system through socially conceptual integration. Furthermore, accreditation lists for ethical fashion are developed under the categories of the environment, people, and cooperation. The developed accreditation lists consist of 11 items in the environment sub-system, 14 items in the people sub-system, and 10 items in the cooperation sub-system for a total of 35 items. The proposed ethical fashion accreditation system is expected to serve to educate and spread ethical fashion toward consumers, and provide guidelines for the ethical fashion ecosystem such as materials, the production process, and social and environmental responsibilities of the fashion industry.

패션디자인에서 기후변화 적응의 유형과 특징

장남경 ( Nam Kyung Jang ) 한국패션디자인학회 2015 한국패션디자인학회지 Vol.15 No.3

The purpose of this study was to establish a conceptual framework for fashion design adapting to a climate change through analyzing the types and characteristics of fashion design adapting to a climate change. Thus this study attempted to provide a new vision for climate- adapting method and possibility during the fashion product development. For the theoretical background, the response to a climate change as well as a concept and current state, and literature related to fashion design considering a climate change were reviewed. For the positive study, ready-to-wear presented at New York, Milan, Paris, and London collection in the last 5 years (2011 S/S~2015 F/W) were examined. 343 fashion deigns estimated as adapting to a climate change were selected for data and analyzed. The types and characteristics of fashion design adapting climate change were derived. Four main themes were functionality, layered, season-less, and crossover. The themes of functionality and season-less had three sub-themes respectively. The sub-themes of functionality were functional design, functional material, and functional accessory. The sub-themes of season-less were season-less design, season-less material, and season-less color. In short, as the characteristics, the functionality may be said that material, design, and details originated in sports/ outdoor wear became popular in daily wear. Through layered, the contrasted proportion and material’ color and texture of one more items helped to extend the usage according to the weather and climate. Designs which are free from the application of seasonal color, material and design were observed. The crossover designs that many styles were mixed in one item or style were flexible in wearing with various climates. Study implications and future research avenues in reference to this study findings and limitations were also discussed.

성공적인 의류상품개발에 영향을 주는 디자인 영감에 관한 연구

장남경 ( Nam Kyung Jang ) 한국패션디자인학회 2003 한국패션디자인학회지 Vol.3 No.1

Successful apparel product development is increasingly valued as a key component of survival and sustaining growth. Design development is crucial in product success and failure because it decides what should be developed. The purpose of this study was to explore the design inspiration sources impacting on successful apparel product development. Qualitative research method was employed and in-depth, face-to-face interviews were conducted with 27 individuals who have been developing apparel products in the U.S. fashion industry as designer or merchandiser. Successful apparel product was defined as products that satisfied the company goal in terms of sales and profitability. It was found that the designs of successful products were generated from past successful product, shopping the market, buyer or supplier inputs, fabric, media, or an event. Therefore, the findings of this study made valuable implications about design inspirations of successful apparel products to industry practitioners, especially those engaged in managing apparel product development. At the same time, this study presented researches and educators in the area of apparel design a baseline for further studies that relate apparel design to product success and failure.

패션 산업에서의 친환경 디자인

장남경 ( Nam Kyung Jang ),김윤정 ( Yun Jung Kim ),주잔나 ( Zan Na Joo ) 복식문화학회 2007 복식문화연구 Vol.15 No.6

치과위생사 유니폼 착용실태, 만족도, 디자인 평가에 관한 연구

황은경 ( Eun Kyung Hwang ),정성지 ( Sung Ji Chung ),장남경 ( Nam Kyung Jang ) 복식문화학회 2006 복식문화연구 Vol.14 No.1

폐원단을 이용한 친환경 패션디자인

김은진 ( Eun Jin Kim ),장남경 ( Nam Kyung Jang ) 복식문화학회 2009 복식문화연구 Vol.17 No.2

패션산업에서의 콜바보레이션 전략

조현아 ( Hyun Ah Cho ),장남경 ( Nam Kyung Jang ),명혜진 ( Hye Jin Myung ) 한국패션디자인학회 2005 한국패션디자인학회지 Vol.5 No.1

The purpose of this study was to analyze individual and company (or brand) collaborations in fashion industry and identify the characteristics of the collaborations. Data were collected through newspaper, trade publication, and internet, and total 29 cases of collaborations were analyzed. The result howed that individual and fashion company collaborations can be divided by 4 categories; designer retail company, designer apparalcompany, artist apparel company, celebrity-apparel company. In fashion industry``s individual and company collaborations, two opposite concepts, competition and cooperation work together. Individuals from both indide and outside of fashion industry participate in fashion collaborations. Regarding the period, short-term collaborations predominate. Collaborations are the driving force of new product development and innovation, and their applications can be extend to communication and brand planning. Marketing implications based on the results were suggested.