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李淑女 한국의류학회 1986 한국의류학회지 Vol.10 No.3
The objectives of this study are to investigate the variation of the sleeve form by changing arm movements and to study the relationship among the three aspects of sleeve (sleeve height, width and armhole girth) by changing arm movements. Plasrun gyps were used for this experimental research. The subjects of this study were elementary schoolgirls (9∼12 years old). Arm mevements were 4 types (0˚,45˚,90˚,135˚) to the vertical directions. The statistical methods used to analyze the data included mean, standard deviation, the Pearson's correlation coefficients and coefficients of determination. The results obtained from this study were as follows; 1. According to the arm movements, the sleeve form changed more in the front than in the back. 2. As the arm movements were increased vertically, the heights of sleeves and the girths of the armholes were decreased, and the widths of sleeves were increased. 3. Variation rates by changing arm movements were different according to the variation of arm movement, and were the highest in sleeve height. 4. There was a negative correlation between sleeve height and width, and a positive correlation between sleeve height and armhole girth.
이숙녀 長安大學校 2012 長安論叢 Vol.33 No.-
The representative materials using thermoplastic characteristics, pleats are different in the look shown according to the gap or the materials despite the same shape, which there are hundreds of pleats in the world. The production of pleats materials is also increasing with the recent fad in Korea. But the study on pleats materials is mostly on design, and the study on many quantitative data of pleats materials is not conducted. The purpose of this study is to use as basic data of the required amount of cloth for clothing design by calculating the milling ratio depending on the kind of pleats, reduce the cost by raising the fabric efficiency, and secure its competitiveness in the material fashion industry. To achieve this, most frequently used 25 pleats with a crease in the size of 150cm*1yd, were used as a sample, respectively. After the measurement of its size, the manufactured sample for pleats was compared with its size, the manufactured sample for pleats was compared with its original size to calculate the milling ratio. And 6 basic item of clothing were selected to calculate the required amount of cloth based on 25 pleats patterns. The calculated milling ratio was used to calculate the cover ratio of KS sizing system for women's garments. As a result, the average milling ratio of 25 pleats in the warp direction was 51.4%. For the use of pleats materials in all 6 basic items, the average quantify of demand of cloth in all 25 pleats increased by more than 200%, and the average quantity of amount of cloth in 22 samples increased up to 375%. And the average cover ratio of its size in all 6 basic items increased by more than 200%. Consequently, theh consideration of item design by the kind of pleats will help to reduce the cost. 열가소성의 특성을 활용한 대표적인 소재인 플리츠는 같은 모양이라도 그 간격이나 소재에 따라 보여지는 표정이 모두 달라 그 종류는 수백 종에 이른다. 최근 플리츠 소재의 열풍으로 국내에서도 그 생산량이 늘어나고 있으나 플리츠 소재에 대한 연구는 디자인에 관한 연구가 대부분이고, 플리츠 소재에 대한 여러 가지 정량적인 데이터에 관한 연구는 이루어지지 않고 있는 실정이다. 본 연구의 목적은 플리츠 종류의 따른 축융률을 산출하여 의복 설계 시 필요로하는 요척량의 기초자료로 삼으며, 원단 사용량의 효율도 높여 원가를 절감하며 소재패션산업에서도 경쟁력을 확보하는데 그 목적이 있다. 연구방법은 최근 사용빈도가 높은 플리츠 25종을 각 각 150cm*1yd 크기에 플리츠 종류별로 플리츠를 가공하여 시료로 사용한다. 제작된 플리츠 시료는 크기를 측정한 후 원래의 크기와 비교하여 축융률을 산출한다. 또한 의복의 기본아이템 6가지를 선정하여 25종의 플리츠 패턴에 따른 요척을 산출한다. 산출된 축융률을 이용하여 여성복 사이즈 규격에서 플리츠 의복의 커버율을 고찰한다. 결과 플리츠 25종은 경사방향의 평균 측융률이 51.4%가 되었다. 기본 아이템 6가지 모두 플리츠 소재를 사용할 경우에는 25종 모두 요척이 평균 200% 이상 증가하였고, 시료22는 요척이 375%나 증가는 결과가 되었다. 사이즈 커버율에 있어서는 기본아이템 6가지 모두 평균 200% 이상 커버율이 증가하였다. 따라서 플리츠의 종류에 따라서 아이템의 디자인을 고려하는 편이 원가절감에 도움이 되리라 판단된다.