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박성실 국립중앙박물관 1994 미술자료 Vol.- No.54
The preceding studies on Hoijang-jogori , type of Korean traditional women's iacket', have not been made public but just regarded as a part of the studies on jogoris. As material evidences and records are found recently, it is pointed out that the Hoijang-jŏegori should be reconsidered. And, that made me to study on it. The material evidences which are dealt with in this study are mainly the costumes of Chosen dynasty. And the records which I referred to were the "Binŏnondogamuigwai" of Queen Ui-in (1555∼1670) and Queen Inmok (7584-1632), the wives of King Sunjo, "Sinjongrok" of Duchess Lee of Hansan family and the textbooks which were published in the late Chosen dynasty and right after the independence of Korea from Japan in 1945. The costumes of Chosen dynasty can be divided into two types ; one is the costumes before 1592 when Japan invaded Korea and the other is the costumes after 1592. The jŏgoris 1592 have various types which are long and large. These are 50-80cm long, and these look like the jŏgoris for men of today. One of the shortest jŏgoris of these is about 50cm long. Its collar, outer collar, armholes, and cuffs are ornamented with purple silk called jikgumdan. The royal families called it Dan-jŏngor, ‘a short jacket_, and plebeians Hoijang-jŏgori of Hoijangj ŏ gori . It was influenced by Chinese costumes. Si lk was woven mainly by 'Uighurian'. And their skill to weave silk was imported in Koryŏdynasty. The silk woven in Koryŏdynasty era were called as Kumson fo Jikgumdan. The skill to weave silk had been spread not only royal family but also plebeian by 1592. The Gyŏtmagi is a type of j ŏgori which is abut 60-70cm long and was distinguished from the long-jŏgoris which has slits in its both sides. This is similar to the Dan-jŏgori in its shape but different from the Den-jŏgori in its length. And it is decorated with purple silk instead of jikgum. Because the jŏgoris of the first half of Chosŏrn dynasty were large, there were some pieces of cloth to put together the armholes. And the pieces of cloth were used far decoration. After 1592, the Danjŏgoris, which, which were made with jikgumdan, came to be disappeaed, and the popular style of jŏgoris were changed from the large jŏgoris to the smaller or17s. As a result, the Gyŏtmagi became a type of Danjŏgori. The noblemen and even royal families enioyed wearing Danjŏgori which were ornamented with gold foil. As the jŏgoris got simplified, the pieces of cloth which were used to put together the armholes became unnecessary, The jŏgoris without the ornamentation of the armholes were popular among plebeian. And the decoration of collar, coat string, and cuffs were partly omitted. And that popular style of jŏgoris have changed into Banboijang- jŏgoris. In 1920, as women has taken part in public life, the reformed costumes appeared. These were long jŏgoris and short skirts, and the jŏgoris same and skits in the same color. And the modemifed women preferred the reformed costumes. The Gyŏtmagi and the Hoijang- jŏgoris were disappeared temporality, and these were shown only in the textbooks which were published before and after the Independence in 1945. Because of the disappearance of the Royal family, the Gyŏrtmagi was used for the term that refers to the ornamenting cloth for armholes, and the Gyŏtmagi became the Samboijang- jŏgoris of today.