전통 복식 문화의 현대적 활용 방법 모색

금기숙 단국대학교 석주선기념박물관 2004 한국 복식 Vol.0 No.22

김미자 교수님 퇴임기념 호를 발간하며

금기숙 한국복식학회 2008 服飾 Vol.58 No.3

Tapestry

금기숙 이화여자대학교 가정대학 의류직물학과 1973 의류직물연구 Vol.- No.3

중국 청대 복식에 사용된 색채에 관한 연구

금기숙(Key Sook Geum),정현(Hyun Jung) 한국복식학회 2004 服飾 Vol.54 No.4

The significant role of colors in fashion design is not enough to emphasize in terms of one of the important design elements and its influences on the behaviors of the people. The purpose of this research is to examine the traditional Chinese colors and its ways of color combinations to appreciate the Chinese culture and its people. The Chinese traditional costume of Ching Dynasty were investigated through historic records, historic nobles, costume accessories and so on. The results of the study were summarized as follows: (1) The Blue was the most favoured color for clothing among men and women during Ching dynasty and various blues in terms of hue, value and intensities were used. (2) The bright Yellow which had been a symbol of Emperor were prohibited being used among people. Though, the late period of Dynasty, the regulation became not to strict and various shades of yellow families were adapted among people. (3) The Red which had been preferred during Ming Dynasty were constantly favoured for the formal wears of auspicious events such as weddings. (4) Dark color groups were loved for the clothing which were used as a ground colors against the flamboyant patterns revealing strong visual effects through value contrast or primary color combinations. (5) The White had a symbol of mourning and there were some intentions to adopt pale color groups such as mint, jade, gray, moon white, silver white to make up for white. (6) Contrast color combinations were one of the basic ways of color combination in Chinese traditional costume. Therefore Chinese color combinations has a strong visual effect and easy to draw attention of people by the contrast of the hue, value or intensity of color. (7) Multi-color combinations were another characteristics of Chinese costume in the formal wears which bears many surface designs. The surface decorated with full of motifs, were appreciated by the people expressing their longings and hopes through the auspicious meanings of patterns and striking visual effects of color combinations.

고구려 복식의 미학적 연구

금기숙(Key Sook Geum) 한국복식학회 2002 服飾 Vol.52 No.3

The study of traditional costume is significant in terms of figuring out of the reality of its originality and enrich the costume culture of today. The purpose of this study is to analyze the aesthetic characteristics and to contemplate the aesthetic values of the Kokuryo costume. Kokuryo costume were characterized with the simpleness in its clothing constructions. The spaces found on the dresses were emphasized giving a geometric characteristics and abstract images. Many different colors were used for tops, bottoms, and border elements showing value contrast in each parts of dress. Patterns were simplified in a dot or stripe shapes impling a certain symbols. Dot patterns were varied in its shapes. In general, the decorative elements were simple and eliminated. Through the process of investigating these aesthetic characteristics, aesthetic values were found. The aesthetics of nature were favoured and tradition were respected. Religious mind were favoured and progressive spirit were endowed by the Kokuryo people. They have pursued the diversities and many changes in visual forms of dresses which were the manifestations of their esprit.

조선복식미의 탐구

금기숙(Key Sook Geum) 한국복식학회 1990 服飾 Vol.14 No.-

As an attempt to view Choson costume from a aesthetic perspective, the aesthetic values of the Choson people, as expressed through the aesthetic charateristics of costumes, are pursued in this study. To appreciate the beauty of the traditional Korean costume, the following aesthetic characteristics of Choson costumes are investigated : form, color, pattern, material and ornament. From the view point of aesthetics, this study shows that Choson costume had comfortable and voluminous forms with beautiful curved lines and rhythm. The most favored colors were white and natural colors of materials. However unusual combination of colors such as the contrast of black and white, the harmony of the primary and rainbow colors were often use. Patterns revealed two aspects ; while subdued patterns generally prevail, at times the unexpected beauty of primary colored patterns drawn our attention. Smooth natural materials were preferred. Ornaments both for practical and decorative purposes were used together with certain colors and patterns, indicating wearer`s status and warding off the evil`s spirits. The aesthetic values in costumes as expressed through the aesthetic characteristics can be classified into the following categories : the beauty of nature, the beauty of personality, the aesthetics of evil`s eye and the beauty of tradition. The beauty of nature, as appreciated by the Choson people through their prevailing nature, the Pung-rew Spirit and through their Worship of Heaven, produced aesthetic charateristics in harmony with nature. The beauty of personality influenced by the ethical standard of Confucianism produced aesthetic characteristics in costumes, through which the appropriate personality was shown for the appropriate social status. On the other hand, the aesthetics of evil`s eye, rooted deeply in Folk religion and Shamanism, contributed to various aesthetic characteristics, which strongly inclined to sorcery and symbolism through choice of patterns, colors and ornaments. Finally, the beauty of tradition, which was based on the ethics of Confucianism and the Choson people`s conservative tendencies, demonstrated the strong tendency to adhere to the external characteristics of the Choson costume. These aesthetic values were the yardsticks of the aesthetic judgment of the Choson people. These values influenced Choson people in designing costumes and in appreciating the beauty of costumes. The aesthetic experience and attitudes of the Choson people, which were based on these aesthetic values, represented their aesthetic consciousness and desires.

소비에트 아방가르드 패션디자인의 조형성 연구

금기숙 ( Key Sook Geum ),이다경 ( Da Kyung Lee ) 한국기초조형학회 2016 기초조형학연구 Vol.17 No.2

소비에트 아방가르드는 세계 최초의 사회주의 국가 건설과 함께 창안된 소련의 새로운 예술 정책으로 매우 혁신적이었다. 소비에트 아방가르드 예술은 소비에트 아방가르드 패션이 발전할 수 있는 가교 역할을 하였고, 소비에트 아방가르드 패션은 소비에트 패션의 시초가 되었다. 본 연구는 20세기 소련의 정치·경제·사회·예술·패션에 대한 전반적인 이해를 기초로 하여 소비에트 아방가르드 패션디자인의 조형성을 살펴보는데 목적이 있다. 본 연구는 소비에트의 사회·문화적 배경과 패션의 특징을 국내외의 선행연구를 중심으로 살펴보았고, 소비에트 아방가르드 패션디자인의 조형적 분석은 문헌자료에 수록된 작품사진과 국외 인터넷 시각자료 등을 대상으로 진행되었다. 소비에트 아방가르드 패션디자인을 실루엣, 색채, 소재, 문양 등의 조형 요소를 중심으로 분석한 결과, 기하학적 형태와 직선적 실루엣의 활용, 원색 대비 선호, 다양한 소재와 화려한 장식의 활용, 전통 문양과 기하학적 문양의 혼용 등의 특징을 보였다. 위와 같은 디자인의 특징에는 러시아의 전통성 고취, 소비에트 국가 이념의 표출, 패션의 예술화 시도, 패션의 산업화 등의 조형적 의도가 내재함을 파악할 수 있었다. 본 연구는 아직도 한국사회에 생소한 러시아 패션을 이해하기 위한 선행 작업으로 시도되었으며, 나아가 러시아와 러시아 패션에 대한 이해의 범위를 넓힐 수 있다는 점에서도 의의가 깊다고 할 수 있다. 러시아 미술과 패션은 소련 붕괴 이후 도약적인 발전가능성이 있는 분야로 기대되며 향후 연구할 가치 또한 높다. 본 연구를 통해 향후 러시아 패션에 대한 연구가 활발하게 이루어지는 계기가 되기를 기대한다. The Soviet avant-garde was large, and influential wave of modern art that flourished in Soviet Union, approximately from 1910 to 1930. The influence of Soviet avant-garde art has not been limited to painting and sculpture, but led to the general development of the Soviet fashion. This study focuses on formativeness of Soviet avant-garde fashion design based on comprehensive understanding of Soviet Union. The study reviews a wide range of domestic and foreign references on historical and cultural characteristics of Soviet Union and Soviet fashion in 1910s and 1920s. In addition, the formativeness of Soviet avant-garde fashion design was carefully analyzed, reviewing visual and literature references worldwide. Analyzing the characteristics of Soviet avant-garde fashion design using factors as silhouette, color, material, pattern, four features - application of geometric structure of straight lines, preference of color contrast, utilization of various materials, combined application of traditional and geometric patterns - were derived. This study highlights formativeness features of Soviet avant-garde fashion design that it strengthened traditional culture, expressed national socialism, encouraged interaction between art and fashion and industrialized fashion. Russian art has been unrevealed in history because of political and ideological reasons and has few previous studies especially on Soviet fashion. This study will broaden and deepen the understanding of Russian fashion while providing new perspectives.

패션디자인을 위한 전통복식의 활용현황에 관한연구

금기숙(Key Sook Geum) 한국복식학회 1999 服飾 Vol.43 No.-

This study is focused on the aesthetic application of traditional Korean dress(Items) to the contemporary fashion design. The results are as follows: (1) Each traditional dresses have revealed their aesthetic characteristics according to the periods or time. (2) The dresses of certain period, figures and items had been limited in use in fashion design today. (3) The most favoured dresses adapted in fashion design were Chosun costume and female top items were the most preferred in use, (4) The colors applied to the fashion design were also limited. The bright and strong color groups were the most popular colors among fashion designers for their works. White which stands for the image of Korean and their dresses were also preferred in use. Therefore experts in various arena of fashion business have to keep in mind following problems: (1) They have to study traditional dresses to enhance their historic knowledges and appreciate their aesthetic beauties. (2) Various kinds of dresses from many periods, items should be tried to adapt in fashion design by the designers. (3) Various male attires also should be adapted in fashion design. (4) Various methodologies are recommended to apply in fashion design. (5) Fashion moods should be examined to make the krean fashion design rich. The plastic characteristics of Korean traditional dresses could be interpreted as a tunnel to show the esprit of Korean and the aesthetic of Korean dresses through the works of fashion design for the international fashion markets or societies.

한국복식에 표현된 흔들림과 떨림의 미

금기숙(Key Sook Geum) 한국복식학회 1990 服飾 Vol.15 No.-

This study is focused on the swinging and trembling effect expressed in Korean costume from ancient days to the present. The swinging is a term standing for gentle movements that are created and implied by the long ties, strings, tassels, pendants and hanging ornamentations. These attatched elements of the costume move as the wearer moves. Trembling is a term expressing small vibrating movement which is created by the tiny decorative motifs attatched to Korean costume. This little decorative elements were attached to the royal crown, earings, necklaces even the sole of the metalic shoes for a change and to draw viewers attention. The swinging and Trembling have been used mainly to express the decorative desires. The Swinging on shaman costume is a expression of the aesthetics of evil`s eye, while the Swinging shown on the costume of schalor is expressing the beauty of personality and nature. In General during the Choson Period, the Swinging of the tassels, ribbons, string belts is a expression of the beauty of nature. Consequently the Swinging and the Trembling are the typical examples of the Meot(멋), Korean traditional aesthetics.

복식에 표현된 한국 고유색에 대한 연구

琴基淑 홍익대학교 1994 弘大論叢 Vol.26 No.-

The colors of the traditional Korean Costume are investigated in this study to figure out the characteristics of the Korean color system, the uinque way of color combination and the aesthetic functions of the colors in the Korean tradition. As one of the formative elements in fashion design, the various adaptations of the characteristics of Korean color is one of the strongest ways in which the Korean sensibility is expressed, The Expression of the Korean beauty by using the characteristics of the Korean colors make the fashion design unique and original. As a conclusion, following results are summarized. 1.The colors used in Korean costumes are restricted in hue, value and intensity(pale, deep, bright), while subtle differences in hue, value and intensity are found in each color category. 2.The characteristics of hue, value and intensity contrasts are often used as main principles of color combination; the hue contrasts are used for the costumes of special occasions such as ritual and ceremony, and people such as brides and children. The value contrasts are preferred in everyday clothes ; pale jade color tops and marine blue bottoms. The saturation contrasts in costumes are worn by serious and religious personalities such as scholars and priests. 3.The traditional colors have used not only for visual effect but also for many aesthetic functions : symbolic, ornamental, shamanistic or practical. The charactersitics of Korean color is an integral part of Korean heritage and a theme to be appreciated among those in contemporary fashion design.