노년층 여성의 의복구성을 위한 체형분석

함옥상 啓明大學校 生活科學硏究所 1997 科學論集 Vol.23 No.-

AbstractFor this study, the elderly women were divided into two groups, those in their sixties and seventies and the differences of boby type between these two groups were examined. Then the boby types were categorized through factor analysis and cluster analysis. The results of the examination are as follows : 1. As they grew older, the characteristics of boby type in elderly women are a decrease height and an enlargement of the waist and abdomen area. 2. Six factors were extracted from factor analysis : the first one is obesity. the second is height, the third is width of the back and the fourth is center front bodice length. And almost the same factor were shown in early old age and in late old age. 3. After cluster analysis, four body types were categorized. Type 1 is tall and fat, type 2 is quite short and thin, type 3 is quite tall and thin and type 4 is short and fat. And a higher ratio of type 3 was observed in early old age and type 4 in late old age.

논문편 : 동작에 따른 의복의 여유량에 관한 연구 - 상체의 피부면 변화량을 중심으로 -

함옥상,신선우 ( Ock Sang Hahm,Seon Woo Shin ) 대한가정학회 1984 Human Ecology Research(HER) Vol.22 No.1

중년여성을 위한 기본 원형설계

함옥상,정혜락 한국의류학회 2000 한국의류학회지 Vol.24 No.1

This study was intended to find body pattern of middle aged women and make new experimental basic pattern for upper-half of the body for them. This experimental pattern on the idea of body pattern analysis was prepared. For experimental pattern, the prototype basic model was chosen with the best qualified D model from the four meaningful existing patterns. After several steps of correction experimental pattern was made. Comparing with basic D model, the new experimental pattern composed of additional bust girth by 1cm, wider back waist by 0.5cm than front waist and additional armhole by 0.5cm keeping the same size for both back and front widths. Making a shoulder line up by 3cm the armhole became deeper accordingly and the room for girth has been transferred to length. Front neck girth became deeper downward but back neck girth risen a little bit. Side line of the bodice formed with inward slope taking from the waist line by 2cm. Instead of dart, modified side line slope was more practical by its function and appearance. Abdominal girth which is lower than waist girth by 8.5cm kept in same size with bust girth. Then abdominal girth became more comfortable. New experimental pattern with changes has been examined in function and appearance. In conclusion, the new experimental basic pattern for the middle-aged women has been proved more practical for both in bodice and sleeve than other existing ones in terms of function and appearance.

안감의 縫合效率에 關한 硏究

咸玉相 啓明大學校 生活科學硏究所 1976 科學論集 Vol.3 No.-

In producing clothes, sewing of lining fabrics plays very important role. Herewith, present study attempted to determine the appropriate thread and stitched size for different lining fabrics. Six different kinds of lining fabrics were seamed with six different threads, having the stitched size of 3/㎝, 5/㎝ and 8/㎝ respectively. The results obtained could be summarized as follows : 1) Synthetic fiber such as tatoron and T/C thread showed high seam efficiency with polyester and nylon lining fabric. Silk thread revealed high seam efficiency with viscose rayon lining fabric. But, in the case of cotten thread, low seam efficiency was found out with polyester and nylon lining fabric and, with other lining fabrics, its efficiency was only moderate. However, viscose thread showed very low seam efficiency which makes it inappropriate as thread. 2) Seam efficiency was also determined in comparison with the stitched size. Seam efficiency of polyester and nylon lining fabric was increased as the stitched size increased. In the case of acetate lining fabric (F??), maximum seam efficiency was shown with the stitched size of 3/㎝ and 5/㎝. However, the stitched size of 5/㎝ was most reasonable for other lining fabrics. 3) Because seam efficiency was proportional with the strength of thread strong thread seemed to require strong lining fabrics.

의복 구성학의 연구 경향 분석

함옥상,박정숙,이경남 啓明大學校 生活科學硏究所 1998 科學論集 Vol.24 No.-

In this dissertation we have examined a thematic item from a published thesis of a scientific journal, such as Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, Journal of Korean Home Economics Association. The Journal of Korean Costumes since 1977. The study runs as follows. 1. If we analyze a published year and order of this dissertation, we will team the sharp increase of a thesis of scientific journal since 1991. 2. In high frequency on a study of thematic item, A dissertation on a bodily study holds the first place. 3. In the study on a role of clothing, A dissertation of a role on a change of bodily appearance and the test of habiliment stands first. 4. In the style of clothing of modern style, because of increasing ready-made clothes, A dissertation on establishment of measure occupies rans first. 5. In a study on work of pattern, A dissertation on bodice pattern holds the first place. 6. In a study on a bodily study, A dissertation on upper body stands first. 7 In a study used CAD system, A dissertation on upper garment holds the first place.

Polyester 裁縫絲의 熱處理가 Seam Puckering에 미치는 影響

咸玉相,柳德恒,李順喜 한국의류학회 1979 한국의류학회지 Vol.3 No.2

The heat setting of sewing thread is known to have some puckering. In this experiment, the P/C fabrec and polyester thread were heat setted at temperatures ranging from 70℃ to 150℃ at the interval of every 20℃ for the period of 1, 5, 10, 20 and 40 minutes resoectivly. The results obtained are as follows: 1) In general, the pre-laundering sewing shrinkage related negatively to time but realted positively to temperature. And it showed the lowest rate at 110℃. 2) In case of slack treatment, the post-laundering sewing sewing shrinkage marked the lowest rate at 130℃ while that of stretch treatment showed the lowest rate at 90℃. 3) The rates of post-laundering sewing shrinkage were higher than those of pre-laundering shrinkage, the difference between them reached the bottom when applied the slack treatment at 130℃ and the streched treatment at 110℃.

老年層 女性의 衣服構成을 위한 體型 硏究

咸玉相,李惠珠 啓明大學校 生活科學硏究所 1985 科學論集 Vol.11 No.-

For giving aid to better clothing construction of elderly women, he somatotype of them was studied in this paper. The subjects are 81 in all, aged from 60's to 80's, living in Daegu area. First, the body measurement was taken. And by using pictures, the side silhouette was given, which was characteristic in senescence. According to side silhouette, somatotype was classified. Then, experimental patterns are made for each somatotype model by draping method. By using these patterns, the differences of the each type of pattern and dart were analyzed. The results from this analysis are as follows: 1. The girth item generally increased, while width, length decreased with growing age. 2. The side silhouette of elderly women were classified into 4 types, 60% of them was almost normal. 3. In comparison of body surface change, the back of B type increased in Block 1 by 2% while C. D in block 33%, 1.5% each, and in the shoulder line and dart, D type was most significant. So in clothing construction of elderly women, the length and amount of back shoulder dart is to be taken more by order A<B<C<D type, and shoulder position also moved forward by same order. In back, in B type the ease was given in block l, C. D in block 3 a little more.

20대 남자 대학생의 실제체형과 이상형에 관한 연구

함옥상,김선혜 啓明大學校 生活科學硏究所 2002 科學論集 Vol.- No.-

The purpose of this study was to study the recognition and satisfaction, ideal body shape and real body size of college men. The result were as follows: 1. The subjects tended to be satisfied with thick upper arm, long limbs, wide shoulder width and preferred to be tall in height and slim in waist girth, abdomen girth and hip girth. 2. The satisfaction of body catexis had higher correlation with the recognition of body cathexis than real body size. 3. The subjects were classified into 3 clusters each 94, 226, 36 by Ro~hrer's Index. Characteristics of the body shape in group Ⅰ tend to tall and slim and groupⅢ tend to small and obese. 4. College men tend to be dissatisfied with leanness of upper body and obesity of lower body.

논문편 - 의생활편 : 사상균에 의한 식물성 섬유의 손상도에 관한 연구

함옥상,김효근 ( Okc Sang Hahm,Hyo Eun Kim ) 대한가정학회 1979 Human Ecology Research(HER) Vol.17 No.1

老人衣服의 機能性에 관한 人間工學的 硏究(Ⅰ)

咸玉相 啓明大學校 生活科學硏究所 1988 科學論集 Vol.14 No.-

In order to make clothes for the elderly which are suitable for functions, this paper divides the elderly into four groups according to ages; 60 to 64, 65 to 69, 70 to 74, and over 75. And also the body types of the elderly are considered from the standpoint of two parts-the front and the back. Each part is divided into four types. And then the measurements of bodies and the ranges of movements are analyzed. The results are as follows. 1. The physical characteristics of the elderly tend to get less and less prominent as they grow older. Nevertheless, for men, the bust index tends to be high and for women, the bust, hip, and waist indexes then to be high. 2. From the standpoint of body types, it is shown that with A type among other types of the back, men and women alike, the sizes in most items are large. And the bust index is low, the hip index high. With Ⅱ type among other types of the front, the sizes in almost all items are comparatively large. And indexes are relatively high. 3. As men and women grow older, the ranges of movements getting narrower. D type of the back and Ⅱ type of the front are in less motion. Therefore the clothing for the elderly should have wide bread and much ease.