Inhibitory effects of natural plants of Jeju Island on elastase and MMP-1 expression.

Kim, Young Heui,Kim, Ki Soo,Han, Chang Sung,Yang, Hong Chul,Park, Sun Hee,Ko, Kang Ii,Lee, Soo Hee,Kim, Ki Ho,Lee, Nam Ho,Kim, Jung Mi,Son, Kyung-Hun Society of Cosmetic Chemists 2007 Journal of cosmetic science Vol.58 No.1

<P>In order to search for new active cosmetic ingredients of natural origin, we screened about 60 plants collected from Jeju Island, which is located in the southernmost part of the Republic of Korea. We investigated their free radical scavenging activity, elastase inhibition activity, and reduction of MMP-1 mRNA expression for the development of anti-aging ingredients as raw materials for use in cosmetics. In the free radical scavenging capacity assay, 12 extracts, including Typha orientalis (seed) and Torreya nucifera (leaf), showed significant free radical scavenging activity (up to SC(50)<30 microg/ml). Among these extracts, Nymphaea tetragona (rhizome) extract showed the highest free radical scavenging activity (SC(50)=4.7 microg/ml). In the anti-elastase inhibition assay, seven extracts, including Typha orientalis (seed) and Persicaria hydropiper (whole plant), showed high inhibitory activity (>50% at 100 mug/ml). Among these extracts, Persicaria hydropiper (whole plant) extract showed the highest elastase inhibition activity (IC(50) = 46.7 mug/ml). In the MMP-1 expression assay using RT-PCR, Typha orientalis (seed), Pyrrosia hastata (root), and Capsicum annum (whole plant) showed slightly lower inhibition activity than EGCG, which was used as a control. Furthermore, four extracts, including Persicaria hydropiper (whole plant), Filipendula glaberrima (root), Nymphaea tetragona (root), and Camellia japonica (leaf), completely inhibited the expression of MMP-1 in human fibroblast cells. The results showed that four of the 60 plant extracts may hold potential for use as natural active ingredients for anti-aging cosmetics.</P>

A dual mechanism of 4-hydroxy-5-methyl-3[2H]-furanone inhibiting cellular melanogenesis.

Kim, Hyo Jung,An, Sang Mi,Boo, Yong Chool Society of Cosmetic Chemists 2008 Journal of cosmetic science Vol.59 No.2

<P>In previous studies, 4-hydroxy-5-methyl-3[2H]-furanone (HMF) was shown to have potent antioxidative and antimelanogenic effects, suggesting its potential use as a depigmenting agent. The present study investigated its mechanism of action on murine melanoma B16F10 cells stimulated by theophylline, an activator of the cyclic AMP/protein kinase A signaling leading to tyrosinase gene expression. When the cells were stimulated with theophylline, there were dose-dependent increases in cellular tyrosinase protein content and melanin formation, as expected. HMF inhibited the theophylline-stimulated melanin formation as effectively as arbutin, one of the most widely used depigmenting agents in cosmetics. HMF appeared to reduce tyrosinase mRNA and protein content in the cells stimulated by theophylline, indicating it inhibited tyrosinase gene expression. HMF also effectively inhibited tyrosinase-catalyzed melanin formation from dihydroxyphenylalanine in the cells as well as in vitro. Therefore, the antimelanogenic effects of HMF were best explained by a dual mechanism inhibiting tyrosinase gene expression and the enzyme activity of pre-existing tyrosinase.</P>

Anti-inflammatory activity of Crinum asiaticum Linne var. japonicum extract and its application as a cosmeceutical ingredient.

Kim, Young Heui,Kim, Ki Ho,Han, Chang Sung,Park, Sun Hee,Yang, Hong Chul,Lee, Bang Yong,Eom, Sang-Yong,Kim, Young-Sil,Kim, Jong-Heon,Lee, Nam Ho Society of Cosmetic Chemists 2008 Journal of cosmetic science Vol.59 No.5

<P>Crinum asiaticum Linne var. japonicum has long been used as a rheumatic remedy, as an anti-pyretic and as an anti-ulcer treatment, and for the alleviation of local pain and fever in Korea and Malaysia. In order to investigate the possibility of Crinum asiaticum Linne var. japonicum extract as a cosmetic ingredient, we measured its anti-inflammatory effect by its inhibition of iNOS (inducible nitric oxide synthase) and the release of PGE2, IL-6, and IL-8. We also measured its anti-allergic effect by its inhibition of beta-hexosamidase release. An HPLC experiment after extraction with 95% EtOH at pH 3.5 showed that Crinum asiaticum Linne var. japonicum was mainly composed of lycorine (up to 1%), a well-known immunosuppressor. The content of lycorine varied, depending on the type of plant tissue analyzed and the extraction method. In an anti-inflammatory assay for inhibition of nitric oxide formation on lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-activated mouse macrophage RAW 264.7 cells, the ethanol extract of Crinum asiaticum showed an inhibitory activity of NO production in a dose-dependent manner (IC50 = 58.5 microg/ml). Additional study by RT-PCR demonstrated that the extract of Crinum asiaticum significantly suppressed the expression of the iNOS gene. Moreover, the extract of Crinum asiaticum did not show any cytotoxicity, but did show a cell proliferation effect against LPS (a 10 approximately 60% increase in cell viability). In an assay to determine inhibition of the H2O2-activated release of PGE2, IL-6, and IL-8 in human normal fibroblast cell lines, the release of PGE2 and IL-6 was almost completely inhibited above concentrations of 0.05% and 1%, respectively. Moreover, the release of IL-8 was completely inhibited over the entire range of concentration (>0.0025%). In order to investigate the skin-sensitizing potentials of the extract of Crinum asiaticum, a human clinical test was performed after repeated epicutaneous 48-h applications under an occlusive patch (RIPT). The repeated and single cutaneous applications of Crinum asiaticum Linne var. japonicum extract under the occlusive patch did not provoke any cumulative irritation and sensitization reactions. The result showed that the extract of Crinum asiaticum Linne var. japonicum has a sufficient anti-inflammatory effect. Therefore, Crinum asiaticum Linne var. japonicum extract may be useful for development as an ingredient in cosmetic products.</P>

Use of non-melanocytic HEK293 cells stably expressing human tyrosinase for the screening of anti-melanogenic agents.

Kim, Mijin,An, Sang Mi,Koh, Jae-Sook,Jang, Dong-Il,Boo, Yong Chool Society of Cosmetic Chemists 2011 Journal of cosmetic science Vol.62 No.5

<P>Tyrosinase (TYR) from mushrooms has been inappropriately used in the screening assay for hypopigmenting agents even though its biochemical properties are different from those of human TYR. Cell-free extracts of human epidermal melanocyes (HEMs) could be another choice for the assay, but HEMs grow too slowly to get a sufficient amount of cell-free extracts. In the present study, human embryonic kidney (HEK) 293 cells were transfected with a human TYR construct to establish a cell line that grows rapidly and expresses human TYR constitutively. Cell-free extracts of the established cell line, HEK293-TYR, were tentatively used in the screening assays for 11 phenylpropanoids that have chemical structures similar to that of L-tyrosine, the substrate of TYR. Of the 11 compounds, the strongest inhibition of TYR activity was shown by p-coumaric acid (IC50, 3 μM), followed by 3-(4-hydroxyphenyl)propionic acid (50 μM) and 3-(4-hydroxyphenyl)lactic acid (70 μM). The results indicate that p-coumaric acid has an optimal chemical structure for the inhibition of TYR. The effects of these phenylpropanoids on melanin synthesis in HEMs correlated well with their effects on TYR activity in vitro. This study demonstrated that HEK293-TYR cells can be a good source of the human TYR enzymes needed in the screening assay of anti-melanogenic agents.</P>

Effects of seaweed Laminaria japonica extracts on skin moisturizing activity in vivo.

Choi, Jae-Suk,Moon, Woi Sook,Choi, Ji Na,Do, Kee Hun,Moon, Sun Hwa,Cho, Kwang Keun,Han, Chae-Jeong,Choi, In Soon Society of Cosmetic Chemists 2013 Journal of cosmetic science Vol.64 No.3

<P>Twelve species of edible seaweed from the coast of Korea were screened for skin moisturizing activity. We placed the lead of a Corneometer on an approximately 6-cm2 test area of the forearm and measured both untreated skin (control) and skin treated with test moisturizing creams either containing or not containing 5% water:propylene glycol (50:50) extracts of seaweeds. Over the 8-h observation period, the strongest activity of the Laminaria japonica extracts occurred at the 2-h period. For the 10% extract, hydration with the L. japonica extract increased by 14.44% compared with a placebo. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was also measured using a test cream with 10% L. japonica extract. For up to 8 h after applying the creams, TEWL was decreased to 4.01 g/cm2, which was approximately 20% of that seen with the control. We suggest that the L. japonica extract hydrates skin via the humectants and hydrocolloids that it contains. To confirm the safety of L. japonica extracts, we performed a patch test on human skin. The results suggested that at moderate doses humans can safely use the extracts. For commercial applications, we evaluated the physicochemical characteristics of the test cream products, including Hunter L, a, and b values; pH; refractive index; and coefficient of viscosity. L. japonica extract did not affect overall formulations of the test cream product in any of the tested aspects. These results suggest that L. japonica extract is a promising ingredient in moisturizing formulations.</P>

Cosmeceutical properties of polysaccharides from the root bark of Ulmus davidiana var. japonica

Eom, S. Y.,Chung, C. B.,Kim, Y. S.,Kim, J. H.,Kim, K. S.,Kim, Y. H.,Park, S. H.,Hwang, Y.-I.,Kim, K. H. Society of Cosmetic Chemists 2006 Journal of cosmetic science Vol.57 No.5

Inhibitory effects of geranic acid derivatives on melanin biosynthesis.

Society of Cosmetic Chemists 2012 Journal of cosmetic science Vol.63 No.6

<P>The effects of geranic acid and its structurally related derivatives (geraniol, citronellic acid, and citronellol) on cell viability and melanin biosynthesis in Melan-a cells were evaluated in this study. Among them, geranic acid evidenced the strongest inhibitory activity on melanin production, coupled with low cell toxicity. Treatment with 500 μM of this compound resulted in a reduction in melanin content of 35.4% as compared to the live cell percentage (91.7%). Moreover, geranic acid also inhibited tyrosinase activity and intracellular tyrosinase expression in a dose-dependent manner. These results show that geranic acid may function as a skin depigmenting agent via the inhibition of tyrosinase activity and expression within melanocytes.</P>

Inhibitory effects of pomegranate concentrated solution on the activities of hyaluronidase, tyrosinase, and metalloproteinase.

Kang, Su Jin,Choi, Beom Rak,Kim, Seung Hee,Yi, Hae Yeon,Park, Hye Rim,Park, Soo Jin,Song, Chang Hyun,Park, Ji Ha,Lee, Young Joon,Kwang, Sae Society of Cosmetic Chemists 2015 Journal of cosmetic science Vol.66 No.3

<P>Synopsis Botanical antioxidants have attracted much attention as useful preventatives of skin damage. Pomegranate is consumed throughout the world for its beneficial health effects, including its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities. We investigated whether pomegranate concentrated solution (PCS) could serve as a potential functional cosmetic ingredient that exerts a skin-whitening effect and antiwrinkle activity. To investigate the moisturizing effect of PCS, hyaluronidase activity was examined in human keratinocytes (HaCaT). Elastase and procollagenase activities were assessed in normal human primary dermal fibroblast-neonatal (HDF-N) cells to determine their antiwrinkle effects. Metalloproteinase 1 (MMP-1) activity was also assessed following ultraviolet A (UVA) irradiation. Whitening effects were measured by a tyrosinase inhibition assay and melanin formation test in mouse melanocytes (Melan-a). In addition, histopathological analysis was performed to determine the number of microfolds formed on the epithelial surface, mean epithelial thickness, mean number of inflammatory cells infiltrating the dermis, and collagen fiber-occupied regions within the dermis. Hyaluronan synthesis was significantly increased by PCS in HaCaT cells, while procollagenase and elastase activities were decreased in HDF-N cells. A significant decrease in UVA-induced MMP-1 activity was also observed in PCS-treated HDF-N cells, compared with UVA-exposed cells. PCS effectively reduced melanin production and mushroom tyrosinase activity in Melan-a cells. Moreover, UVB-induced histopathological dermal sclerosis and inflammatory signs were significantly attenuated in PCS-administered mice compared with UVB-exposed mice. Conclusions: Our results suggest that PCS prevents signs of aging, including those related to photoaging. These effects are associated with enhanced hyaluronan synthesis, as well as suppressed elastase, collagenase, MMP-1, and tyrosinase activities and melanin production. UVB-induced photoaging, such as histopathological dermal sclerosis and inflammatory signs, were effectively reduced on the addition of PCS. These results also suggest that skin aging can be prevented and reduced by the antioxidant effects of PCS.</P>