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      • Field observation and modeling of wave set-up on a macrotidal beach: the Malipo Experiment

        Choi, Jin-Yong,Park, Jun-Yong,Cho, Kyoung-Ho,Hyun, Sang-Kwon,Yoo, Jeseon,Lee, Dong-Young,Jun, Ki-Cheon BioOne (Coastal Education and Research Foundation) 2013 JOURNAL OF COASTAL RESEARCH Vol.65 No.-

        <P>Korea Research Ocean & Development Institute (KORDI: now renamed the Korea Institute of Ocean Science & Technology, KIOST) conducted a field observation experiment (the Malipo Experiment) using a variety of wave gages and current meters simultaneously at the Malipo Beach, South Korea, from December 2009 to March 2010 in order to understand the coastal processes in a macrotidal environment. The Malipo Beach has a typical macrotidal beach environment characterized by a very gentle beach slope of 1/50 and strong tidal currents corresponding to the extreme tidal range of 7 m. As a part of this program, we observed the intertidal-zone wave set-up using a wave-rider buoy moored at 20 m water depth and seven pressure-type wave gages perpendicularly aligned to the shore at the intertidal zone for 17 days beginning from December 17th, 2009 in order to understand wave breaking and set-up characteristics in the macrotidal environment. Based on the observation data analysis, the relationship between the wave set-up and wave height at offshore (H-s,H-0) is eta= 0.11H(s,0) showing that influence of alongshore tidal currents on the wave set-up was negligible. It was analyzed that, however, wave set-up might be influenced by shore-normal currents. The wave set-up at the study site was smaller than previous researches. It might result from its low breaking index and the wave characteristics of short wave period and wide-spreading directional spectra at the study site. Results of model simulation by combining a wave model with a circulation model showed that simulated wave set-up heights were generally lower than the measurements.</P>

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      • Application of GOCI Satellite Data to Ocean Modeling

        Kim, Chang S.,Park, Young-Je,Park, Kwang Soon,Shim, Jae Seol,Lim, Hak-Soo BioOne (Coastal Education and Research Foundation) 2013 JOURNAL OF COASTAL RESEARCH Vol.65 No.-

        <P>This study demonstrates possible application of satellite data to numerical modeling, and vice versa, to improve the quality of the processed information. A new geostationary satellite with the three missions of communication, ocean and meteorology was launched in June 2010. The ocean mission part, GOCI (The geostationary Ocean Color Imager), is now in data service of ocean color images at every hour during daytime with a spatial resolution of 500 m. The scanned data covers the north Pacific with focusing on Korean Peninsula and adjacent seas. Using the optical sensors, the GOCI images usually contain the cloud-blocked zone. We investigate a method to acquire the cloud-free images of environment information by using the operational 3-D ocean model, the ROMS. The clear-image data are used as boundary condition to the numerical modeling, and then the model results are used to recover the cloud-covered area. The hourly varying image data are also excellent data for the ocean numerical modeling in terms of temporal and spatial variation of the ocean environment. By close examination of hourly producing images from GOCI, the temporal variation is very useful for operational purpose along with the three-dimensional ocean model such as ROMS. Being in operational mode, the ROMS ocean model produces temporal and structural variation of coastal features by using the compatible GOCI data, or the GOCI images can be improved by using the model results for cloud-free images. This study shows some excellent test cases on various coastal phenomena, such as a river plume of highly turbid waters, coastal upwelling, transport of algal bloom, typhoon tracking and the distribution of surface suspended sediment concentration. A method for the convergence of GOCI data and ocean model results has been introduced. The clouding network system for the convergence of satellite data and ocean model data is a promising method that combines two different media, thus yielding dynamically validated products.</P>

      • Outlier detection and missing data filling methods for coastal water temperature data

        Cho, Hong Yeon,Oh, Ji Hee,Kim, Kyeong Ok,Shim, Jae Seol BioOne (Coastal Education and Research Foundation) 2013 JOURNAL OF COASTAL RESEARCH Vol.65 No.-

        <P>Outlier detection and missing data filling (imputation) processes are essential first step in the statistical analysis of coastal monitoring data. Here, we suggest methods for completing these key processes. An outlier detection method that uses approximate and detailed components is suggested. The decomposition of the time-series data is performed by harmonic analysis. Next, the modified z-score method is applied to the residuals (detailed component) to detect outliers. After removing the outliers in the residuals, the filling process for the missing and removed outlier data is conducted by summing the random and the approximate components. Among the environmental monitoring data, this method is applied to the coastal water temperature data. We used hourly interval coastal water temperature data provided by the NFRDI (National Fisheries Research & Development Institute). In these datasets, the dataset of the Yeong-Deok Geomuyeok (36.58 degrees N, 129.40 degrees E) station, Korea, is only used for this method application. This dataset contains some outliers and missing data. To test the model performance, this method is applied to a daily interval modeling dataset from the HYCOM (Hybrid Coordinate Ocean Model). This method provides reasonable results for outlier detection and for filling in missing data in coastal water temperature datasets.</P>

      • Estimation of storm surge inundation and hazard mapping for the southern coast of Korea

        Yoon, Jong-Joo,Shim, Jae-Seol BioOne (Coastal Education and Research Foundation) 2013 JOURNAL OF COASTAL RESEARCH Vol.65 No.-

        <P>The coastal area of Korea is damaged by the approach of typhoons every year. The most serious inundation damage, with loss of lives and properties, was caused by typhoon Maemi in September 2003. After this event, there has been increased interest in addressing these coastal zone problems. It is therefore desirable to accurately forecast the storm surge height. In this study, using a numerical finite-volume coastal ocean model (FVCOM), a storm surge was simulated to investigate its inundation characteristics for the coastal area at Masan, Yeosu and Busan cities on the southern coast of Korea. In the model, a moving boundary condition (wet-dry treatment) was applied to examine inundation propagation by storm surge. The model grids were extended up through the lowland area by applying the DEM, made by precisely combining the airborne-LiDAR survey and bathymetry data. A minimum 30 m resolution unstructured triangular mesh was applied to calculate the storm surge and inland inundation. Simulated inundation range and depth were compared with the inundation map made from field measurements after the typhoon event. The results of inundation simulations in this study show good correspondence with not only the observed inundation area but also inundation depth. We also estimated the special inundation level distributions for each return period. The numerical model system adopted in this study could be a useful tool for analyzing storm surges, and for predicting coastal inundation. In addition, it is necessary for preparing detailed evacuation plans, including hazard maps for associated storm surge inundation problems.</P>

      • High-Resolution Operational Coastal Modeling System for the Prediction of Hydrodynamics in Korea Using a Wave-Current Coupled Model

        Lim, Hak-Soo,Chun, Insik,Kim, Chang Shik,Park, Kwang Soon,Shim, Jae Seol,Yoon, Jong Joo BioOne (Coastal Education and Research Foundation) 2013 JOURNAL OF COASTAL RESEARCH Vol.65 No.-

        <P>We have developed a high-resolution operational coastal modeling system for the coastal waters of Korea using a wave-current coupled model ROMS. The operational oceanographic system consists of operational modeling and monitoring modules. The modeling system comprises atmospheric and hydrodynamic models coupled with three-dimensional hydrodynamics, wave, sediment transport, and water quality model. The hydrodynamic variables are forecasted on a 72-hour basis. The real-time monitoring system is comprised of buoy, HF-radar and geostationary Communication Ocean Meteorological Satellite (COMS). The web-GIS-based coastal information system provides predicted results with real-time monitoring data for dissemination to the public and validation of the predicted results. The operational coastal modeling system uses the ROMS hydrodynamic model coupled with SWAN, a wave model. WRF is used for meteorological modeling of atmospheric forcing, NAO.99jb is a regional tide model used for the tides, and CE-QUAL-ICM is an eutrophication model that is used for simulating the water quality. The atmospheric forcing is derived from the predicted results of the WRF atmospheric model, which has been operated for forecasting in the East China Sea and East Sea. The ocean boundary condition is derived from data-assimilative ROMS, which has been in operation for the Yellow Sea. The hydrodynamic variables were calibrated with tidal surface elevation and verified with current data observed by a bottom-mounted ADCP and AWAC. To validate the predicted results, we use real-time monitoring data from hydrodynamic measurements observed by the operational AWAC and buoy, 1-h averaged surface currents measured by HF-radar, and suspended sediment concentration (SSC) obtained hourly and derived from the Geostationary Ocean Color Imager (GOCI) of COMS. The wave-current coupled ROMS-SWAN modeling system shows enhanced wave-current interaction for the coastal waters of Korea, especially for the prediction of storm surge height and variation of suspended sediment transport. This operational coastal modeling system has been originally developed for the prediction system of coastal waters of Korea and used for the development of an Integrated-Maritime Prediction System (I-MAPS) supporting the operation of the major ports system of Korea such as Incheon and Gunsan on the western coast of Korea, and Yeosu, Masan and Busan on the southern coast of Korea. I-MAPS will also provide monitoring and predicted data to governmental agencies and to the public to support ship navigation and marine activity and to solve problems associated with coastal accidents, such as storm surge, inundation, search and rescue, and oil-spills, as a part of the Korea Operational Oceanographic System (KOOS) which will be in operation by the end of 2013.</P>

      • Evaluation of Sub-aerial Topographic Surveying Techniques Using Total Station and RTK-GPS for Applications in Macrotidal Sand Beach Environment

        Lee, Jeong-Min,Park, Jun-Yong,Choi, Jin-Yong BioOne (Coastal Education and Research Foundation) 2013 JOURNAL OF COASTAL RESEARCH Vol.65 No.-

        <P>Accurate documentation of monitoring beach topographic changes is an essential component of coastal process research and management. Thanks to rapid development of technology, accuracy and quality of recent beach land surveying data have improved accordingly. As increasing demand for detailed beach topography, the adoption of a proper survey design and data collection strategy is also a crucial factor in order to collect high-density data accurately and efficiently within a given time. Especially, an efficient topographic surveying technique, by which the required time and manpower for a survey can be minimized, should be considered in the case of macro-tidal beach environment having a limited daytime for surveying the exposed intertidal zone. As a part of the Coastal Erosion Monitoring And Prediction (CEMAP) system development program of the Korea Institute of Ocean Science and Technology (KIOST), we conducted accuracy and efficiency tests for four different beach-profile surveying methods of: 1) spot measurement using a total station; 2) spot measurement using a RTK-GPS system; 3) continuous walking measurement using a RTK-GPS backpack system; and 4) continuous measurement using a RTK-GPS system mounted on an all-terrain vehicle (RTK-GPS ATV system) at the Gosapo macro-tidal sand beach, South Korea. Test results indicate that the RTK-GPS spot measurement method have the lowest vertical error of about 2 cm, which includes equipment and operation errors, while the rest of them have similar vertical errors with a range of 3 - 6 cm. In terms of survey efficiency, the RTK-GPS ATV system have advantages in surveying time and operational manpower with a reasonable vertical error of about 3 cm over the other surveying methods. As a result, The RTK-GPS ATV system is the most suitable surveying method for examining the beach volume and morphologic changes in a macrotidal sand beach, while the spot measurement methods using the total station or the RTK-GPS system are adequate for accurate beach-profile change analysis.</P>

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