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전혜숙(Chun Hea-Sook),백계(Bai-ji),김희섭(Kim Hee-Sub) 한복문화학회 2007 韓服文化 Vol.10 No.3
This study is about the women of costume in red Miao. This paper focuses on three key aspects as follows: Firstly, for the historic change of the Miao Culture, the Miao ancients were constantly moving from the central China to the Southwest after they were defeated by the Chinese dominant dynasties. During the migration, some Miao people came to adapting the life style of the Han and other nations, and gradually melt into these nations. However, the others still have kept their traditional Miao culture till now. In addition, during the migration of the Miao, the physical, social and political environments in which they lived have changed as well. It is the important reason that cultivates the different Miao cultures and the different branches, and develops different costume culture. Secondly, for the development background of the Red Miao, the Miao branches are always classified according to the costume characteristics. The Red Miao's name derived from the red skirt of women. the natural living environment causes the red clothing dye(染料)in the Red Miao area And the social and political conditions, for instance, the varied policies of communication with the Han people or living with other nations, also bring about a bigger change of the Red Miao costume color. Thirdly, comparing with the Festival female costume of Red Miao between modern and the Quing Dynasty(淸代), this paper tries to find the important factors affecting the costume development. The current female costume in Songtao(松桃) region almost have the same characteristics of the Manchurian(滿族) dress due to the big impact of the centralizing politics in the Quing Dynasty. But in Lewang(樂旺) region which was not controlled by the Manchurians, the Red Miao people live with the Buyi nation(布依族). They not only use the Buyi costume color and headcloth(頭巾) style in their current costume, but also use the shell and red color in their head ornaments and the hem line of skirt(裙邊) like the Red Miao in the Quing Dynasty did.
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