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해외 컬렉션에 나타난 한국적 디자인 연구[1]-한복치마 스타일을 중심으로-
구남옥(Ku Nam-Ok) 한복문화학회 2004 韓服文化 Vol.7 No.1
A purpose of this study is to establish the Korean clothes style expressed by the foreign designers which took part in overseas collection. And to find out our unique style which discriminated with China and Japan.<br/> A study way is as follow: First, examines a kind. configuration and a design of Korean classic skirt in theoretical background. Therefore. uses as judgment data. Second. sorts out Korean style skirt among the clothes which a foreign designer designed expressed in overseas collections from 2002 to 2003. Third. confirms characteristics of the Korean classic skirt which appeared in these. And analyzes and judges a conclusion.<br/>
구남옥(Nam Ok Ku) 한국복식학회 2005 服飾 Vol.55 No.3
Mokpan-dangkogit was one pattern of collars normally attached to female clothing in Lee Dynasty and it was very rare that a collar of Mokpan-dangkogit was found in male clothing particularly under the Confucianism-dominated society. The detailed procedures of the study are as follows: To summarize a systematic classification on collar of Lee Dynasty along with characteristics of each collar in literature review; To exam various types of Mokpan-dangkogit found in male clothing in the era of Lee Dynasty through relics of the past; and To analyze a period of time which Mokpan-dangkogit first appeared in the process of clothing history of Lee Dynasty and those who wore it. In conclusion, a relationship between female .Mokpan-dangkogit and male counterpart was discussed.
구남옥(Nam Ok Ku) 한국복식학회 2002 服飾 Vol.52 No.7
This study aimed at proving the fact that Men also wear SOKGOT similar to women`s pants in early Chosun era unlike the general opinion that the men`s pants is SAPOK-BAJI. From what SAPOK-BAJI didn`t show up in the contemporary remains and the fact that men also wear GAE-DANG-GO (개당고, the pants opened low parts), which is one of SOKGOT types in ancient time of China, the assumption above can be guessed. Since the clothes style in Chosun era centered on PO(袍), and the pants were designed not to show out, it can be considered there are any troubles for men to wear the SOKGOT style pants. But through Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592 and Chinese invasion of Korea in 1636, changes happened. Due to reflection and awaking about wide and burdensome clothes, the change seemed to be happened from wide SOKGOT style to narrow SAPOK style The SOKGOT style pants seemed to settle down for women`s only as men`s pants become SAPOK-BAJI.
구남옥(Nam Ok Ku) 한국복식학회 2003 服飾 Vol.53 No.1
The following results are from a research on the influences of the political parties on the fashion styles, which political power was struggled with each other were one of the political phenomena featuring Chosun Dynasty. Partisan fashion styles are mainly divided into two groups: NohRon(老論) and SohRon(小論). Nonetheless, NamIn(南人) also shows several unique traits. BukIn(北人), however, does not seem to be retaining any unique styling features, which believed to be caused by lack of political power. The style of NohRon represents the status of a ruling party, which generally had abundant resources and the image of a conservatism. On the contrary, with SohRon`s style, swiftness and reform-minded images could be found. Moreover, the NohRon`s style is generally known to present, as the representing the way of noble men of Chosun Dynasty wore in the past. The reason seems to have stemmed from its status as the last ruling party in Chosun Dynasty. Thus, many people of the age mimicked the style, and it gained general acceptance in turns. Consequently, it is still deemed as the prevalent style of Chosun Dynasty.
구남옥(Nam-ok Ku) 한복문화학회 2004 韓服文化 Vol.7 No.3
Korean traditional skirt is one of the useful item for designers and it has various silhouette and alterability. So It could express different designs. Therefore, used alterability of Korean traditional skirt and I designed 4 works.<br/> The results to have appeared by this study process are as follows.<br/> First, a kind of Korean traditional skirt classify according to use, a wear order, a place that is put on and a skirt belt shape. During them, I designed Tongchima(a seamless one-piece skirt), Jarakchima, Houtchima(an unlined skirt), Gupchima(a lined skirt) and a ceremonial skirt by an item. <br/> Second, Expressed the characteristics of formative, especially structure, fashion of wear and silhouette, and designed. Specially emphasized alterability that could make very various shape according to how to put on.<br/> Third, Matched the Korean clothes textiles and West textiles of a work. The color used black & white (Mono tone) and symbolized an artificial flower of eastern & western culture. <br/> Last, Mixed a modern dress with Korean traditional skirt, and expressed Orientalism. Preserved the classic style of dress and developed more designed a modern style in order to be able to wear.
구남옥(Ku Nam-Ok) 한복문화학회 2008 韓服文化 Vol.11 No.2
The purpose of Patching is to support the main weight-bearing spot of a costume, to protect crossing seam lines, and to make the clothes more beautiful. Patching found in the costumes of the Joseon period were attached to Shoulder, Underarm, Muh(armpit gussets), Coat String, Button, Crotch, Upper crotch, Neckband, Sash, Belt, and the back part of Dopoh. The types of stitching found on Patching included Slip stitch, Running stitch, Back stitch, Prick stitch, and Hemstitch. Although Patching was usually attached to the inside part of a clothing item, it was stitched very elaborately.