한복(韓服) 직물문양(織物文樣)에 관한 연구 : 해방이후부터 2003년까지의 문직물을 중심으로 = (A) study on the fabric patters for Korean costume : focusing on patterned fabrics Korean liberation to 2003

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

This study is a research on the kinds of fabric patterns and on the fabric patterns used largely in the Korean costume fabrics since the Korean liberation chronologically.
To research the fabric patterns it studied the literatures and analyzed the real material and the collected fabrics for the pattern analysis are 283 items. As the collected fabrics found to be separable chronologically, it assumed that the fabric pattern would show different aspects per annum and have studied it dividing the times as 1st period of 1945∼1959, 2nd period of 1960∼1979, 3rd period of 1980∼2003. The fabric patterns have been classified to plant pattern, animal pattern, geometrical pattern, auspicious character patterns, treasure pattern to research their kinds, their frequency and their distribution.
The summarization of the analysis result per the kind and the frequency is as follows.
The kinds of the pattern shown are;
four typical oriental patterns of Japanese apricot tree, orchid, mum and bamboo, peony, lotus, auspicious flower, honey suckle, three patterns of peach, pomegranate and Buddha hands, gourd, rosette, rose of Sharon, pink, flowering plant, small flowers, leaves, rice grain, clover were used as the plan pattern,
Dragon, phoenix, crane, fishes, turtle, vat are shown as the animal pattern.
As the pattern of nature, cloud pattern and wave and other were used.
And as the geometrical pattern, the turning patterns of 卍 character, 亞 character, 雷 character and others, the diamond shape, pattern of taegeuk, the cosmos entity, dot, circle and others were used.
As auspicious character patterns, there are 壽, the longevity, 福 fortune, 囍, the joy, 富, the richness, 祥, the auspiciousness
As the treasure patterns, there used coins, fire, vase, tea pot.
When analyzed those patterns chronologically, in the first the period of 1945∼1960, the auspicious fishes patterns were shown to be used mostly among 41.3% of auspicious fishes, 34.6% of plant pattern, 11.2 % of geometric pattern, 7.3 % of treasure pattern, 4.5 % of animal patter, 1.1 % of nature pattern. In the 2nd period of 1960∼1980, the plant pattern and the auspicious fishes were used mostly among 37.5 % of plant patter, 27.6 % of plant pattern, 19.7 % of geometric pattern, 5.4 % of treasure pattern, 1.9 % of animal pattern, 4.9 % of nature pattern. In the 3rd period of 1980∼2003, they preferred to use the patterns in the rank of 41.9 % of plant pattern, 29.2 % of auspicious character, 9.3 % of nature pattern, 8.5 % of animal pattern, 6.8 % of geometric pattern, 4.2 % of treasure pattern.
When considering the fabric pattern distributions in the three periods, the preference of the types after the liberation was not differ so much but there were a little differences in the use of the material of the pattern.
All of the plant pattern were preferred during the three periods and it was used more coming to the 3rd period. The material of plant pattern was various and the traditionally preferred patterns of peony, mum, Japanese apricot tree were shown many. The pattern of rosette and small flower also were preferred. In all the periods, auspicious character take much portion and 壽 character, 福 character, 囍 character were used much and 囍 character was mostly used. As the geometrical characters, 卍 character and diamond shape were used most as the basement pattern. Currently, the animal pattern was not preferred so much in the fabric pattern but instead cloud pattern was used much having the function to make up the base or the other patterns.
After the liberation, being the Korean costume, the fabric pattern shown in the Korean costume was not differ from the traditional patterns but they were revived giving a little variation of abbreviation and combination and the rosette is the pattern newly preferred in this times.
It is the writer's hope that this study material would be supportable even a little to the forthcoming study on the fabric patterns and to the new design development of the fabric pattern in the Korean costume.

목차 (Table of Contents)

• 목차 = ⅰ
• Ⅰ. 서론 = 1
• 1. 연구의 의의 및 목적 = 1
• 2. 연구범위 및 방법 = 2
• Ⅱ. 문양의 의미와 전통문양 = 4
• 1. 문양의 의미와 기원 = 4
• 2. 우리나라의 전통 문양 = 6
• Ⅲ. 해방이후 전통 직물문양의 종류 = 26
• 1. 제1기 ; 1945년∼1960년의 직물문양 = 30
• 2. 제2기 ; 1960년∼1980년의 직물문양 = 38
• 3. 제3기 ; 1980년∼2003년의 직물문양 = 47
• Ⅳ. 연대별 직물문양 분석 = 55
• 1. 제1기의 직물문양 분포 = 56
• 2. 제2기의 직물문양 분포 = 58
• 3. 제3기의 직물문양 분포 = 60
• Ⅴ. 결론 = 65
• 참고문헌 = 69
• 부록 = 71
• ABSTRACT = 86