조선후기 궁중발기에 나타난 가례복식(嘉禮服飾)과 길례복식(吉禮服飾) 연구 = (A) Study on 'Ga-Rye' Costumes and 'Gil-Rye' Costumes on 'Goong-Joong-Bal-Kee' in the Last Chosun

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

During the Chosun period, every rite and ceremony was performed in compliance with the rules in which the procedures and etiquettes were stipulated for different classes by Sung Confucianism. In case of royal marriages, ceremonials procedures and costumes styles were different as the wedding of a king and a prince crown was called 'Ga-Rye' and that of a prince, a princess and a daughter by a king's concubine was called 'Gil-Rye.' There was documentation called 'Goong-Joong-Bal-Kee' in which ceremonies were planned and necessary items and their quantity were recorded in court ceremonies. From the documentation, we can learn the procedures and costumes of 'Ga-Rye' and 'Gil-Rye.'
The extant documentation of 'Bal-Kee' is composed of 950 pieces kept in "Jang-Suh Gak," covering about 100 years from the Prince crown's 'Ga-Rye' in 1819 (the 19th year of King Soon-Jo).
This dissertation aims to identify the procedures and women's wedding costumes, focusing on the 'Ga-Rye' and 'Gil-Rye' recorded in 'Goong-Joong-Bal-Kee.'
The similarities and differences between the procedures of 'Ga-Rye' and 'Gil-Rye' are as follows:
First, 'Gan-Taek,' the rite of selecting the bride and 'Nap-Chae,' the rite of making a formal marriage request to the bride's family were the same in both ceremonies.
Second, the rite of sending marriage presents and documents was called 'Nap-Jing' in 'Ga-Rye,' while called 'Nap-pye' in 'Gil-Rye,' though the meanings were the just same.
Third, only 'Ga-Rye' had the rite of notifying wedding date called "Go-Ki," the appointment rites of 'Chaek-Bi(the rite of appointing a queen)' and 'Chaek-Bin(the rite of appointing a royal concubine.'
Fourth, both 'Ga-Rye' and 'Gil-Rye' had 'Chin-Young,' a welcoming rite for a bride-to-be.
To sum up, 'Gil-Rye' had much simpler procedures in terms of the traditional wedding procedures called 'Yook-Rye' than 'Ga-Rye,' while it had much more complicated procedures of greeting the elders in court and parents following 'Yook-Rye.'
Therefore, there were not only positional differences in procedures of 'Ga-Rye' and 'Gil-Rye' but also the differences in costumes, which are as follows.
First, in case of 'Gan-Taek,' the costumes were the same in 'Ga-Rye' and 'Gil-Rye,' after which the brides wore green 'Wonsam' when they entered their own quarters in court.
Second, in appointment rites, a queen wore crimson 'Chunkyeui' and a princess (a prince crown's wife) wore light blue 'Chunkyeui,' both of which were prohibited for women from other classes. Besides, Noyeui, Jangsam and Wonsam were also worn in the rites.
Third, there were class differences in terms for costumes, as different names were adopted to refer to the costumes worn by women in higher positions. In addition, 'Ga-Rye' had more numbers and kinds of costumes than 'Gil-Rye.' There were also class differences in the orders of wearing clothes ('Eui-Cha'), fabrics ('Jik-Gem'), accessories ('Boo-Geum') and patterns ('Moon-Yang') by restricting some of them partially to some higher positions.
Therefore, it can be successfully revealed that there were different costume structures by class in "Ga-Rye' and 'Gil-Rye' through 'Goong-Joong-Bal-Kee.' Further researches are called for to determine the right period of some 'Goong-Joong-Bal-Kee' with no specific dates and to identify the inter-relationships of the recorded ritual items.

목차 (Table of Contents)

• 목차
• Ⅰ. 서론 = 1
• 1. 연구배경 및 목적 = 1
• 2. 연구방법 및 범위 = 4
• Ⅱ. 조선후기 사회·문화적 배경 = 6
• 1. 사회적 배경 = 6
• 2. 문화적 배경 = 8
• Ⅲ. 조선시대 가례(嘉禮) 및 길례(吉禮)의 의미와 절차(節次) = 10
• 1. 가례(嘉禮)와 길례(吉禮)의 의미 = 10
• 2. 가례(嘉禮)와 길례(吉禮)의 절차(節次) = 11
• 2-1. 가례(嘉禮)의 절차(節次) = 11
• 1) 가례도감(嘉禮都監)의 설치 = 12
• 2) 간택(揀擇) = 13
• 3) 가례(嘉禮) = 17
• 2-2. 길례(吉禮)의 절차(節次) = 21
• 1) 길례도감의 설치 = 21
• 2) 길례(吉禮) = 23
• Ⅳ. 궁중발기에 나타난 가례복식과 길례복식 고찰 = 24
• 1. 궁중발기 = 24
• 1-1. 발기의 의의 = 24
• 1-2. 「발기」의 형식 및 종류 = 24
• 1) 발기의 형식 = 24
• 2) 발기의 종류 = 25
• 2. 가례와 길례의 절차에 따른 복식 = 30
• 2-1. 간택(揀擇)복식(服飾) = 30
• 1) 초간택(初揀擇) 복식(服飾) = 31
• 2) 재간택(再揀擇) 복식(服飾) = 31
• 3) 삼간택(三揀擇) 복식(服飾) = 34
• 4) 삼간택(三揀擇)후 복식(服飾) = 40
• 5) 궁중발기에 나타난 직물 = 50
• 2-2. 가례복식(嘉禮服飾) = 53
• 1) 고종·명성후가례에 관한 복식 = 53
• 2) 순종·순명후 가례에 관한 복식 = 64
• 3) 정미가례(丁未嘉禮)에 관한 복식 = 77
• 4) 영친왕 가례에 관한 복식 = 81
• 5) 궁중발기에 나타난 직물 = 86
• 6) 장신구(裝身具) = 91
• 2-3. 길례(吉禮) 복식(服飾) = 98
• 1) 의화군부인(義和君夫人) 길례복식(吉禮服飾) = 98
• 2) 궁중발기에 나타난 직물 = 101
• 3) 장신구 = 103
• 4) 공(公)·옹주(翁主) 길례복식(吉禮服飾) = 105
• Ⅴ. 가례와 길례의 절차와 복식 분석 = 112
• 1. 가례와 길례의 절차 = 112
• 2. 가례복식과 길례복식의 종류 = 113
• 1) 궁중발기와 가례도감의궤에 나타난 가례복식 = 115
• 2) 궁중발기와 상방정례에 나타난 길례복식 = 115
• Ⅵ. 결론 = 119
• 그림자료 = 122
• 참고문헌 = 128
• ABSTRACT = 132