Mass Fashion의 패션트랜드 예측정보 수용도 : 1990년대 후반 캐주얼정장을 중심으로

국문 초록 (Abstract)

연구에서는 예측정보를 Mass Fashion으로 옮겨주는 역할을 담당하고 있는 의류업체의 예측정보 활용양상을 조사하고, 1990년대 후반의 패션트랜드 예측정보와 Mass Fashion의 실제트랜드와의 차이점 및 공통점을 살펴봄으로써 패션트랜드 예측정보가 Mass Fashion에 어느정도 수용되었는지를 알아보고자 하였다.
예측정보 활용실태 파악을 위한 조사대상자는 Mass Fashion의 성격을 지니고 있는 national brand 업체에서 2년 이상 종사한 상품기획담당자 113명이었고, 조사도구로는 설문지가 사용되었다.
본고에서 분석한 트랜드 예측정보 자료는 국내 3개 패션연구소에서 1994년 3월부터 1998년 12월까지에 출간한 정보지에 게재된 1995년 춘하부터 1999년 추동시즌 까지의 트랜드 예측자료들이다. 1995년 2월부터 1999년 12월까지의 Mass Fashion 경향 파악을 위해 사용된 자료는 국내 3개 일간지와 1개 경제지에서 발췌한 남녀 캐주얼정장의 유행경향에 관련된 총 220건의 기사들이다. 예측정보와 기사자료의 분석요목은 패션이미지, 색채, 소재, 스타일에 국한하였고 자료분석에는 빈도, 백분율, ANOVA, t-test, x2가 사용되었으며, 도출된 결과는 다음과 같다:
(1) 여성복 예측정보에서는 로맨틱·페미닌이 가장 많이 언급되었으며, 실제트랜드에서도 로맨틱·페미닌이 글래머·섹시, 에스닉 이미지와 함께 강세를 보였다. 남성복의 주된 예측이미지와 실제이미지는 앤드로지너스로서 높은 출현율을 보였다.
(2) 여성복의 경우 예측정보와 실제트랜드 모두에서 옐로우, 화이트, 그레이계 색상과 파스텔톤의 수용도가 높게 나타났다.남성복은 그레이계 색상이 예측 정보에서 특히 많이 제시되었고, 실제트랜드에서는 옐로우계의 출현율이 높았다.
(3) 여성복·남성복 공히 예측정보와 실제트랜드에서 천연소재의 출현도가 매우 높았고, 그 중 견과 모가 특히 높은 출현도를 보였다.낮은 수용도를 보인 소재는 여성복의 인조피혁으로 예측정보에 비해 실제트랜드에 빈번히 출현하였다.그리고 얇고 비치는 소재와 광택성 소재, 그리고 신축성있는 소재, 자연·동물무늬 패턴은 높은 수용도를 보인 질감과 패턴으로 나타났다.
(4) 여성복의 경우는 예측정보에 나타난 실루엣 중 핏&플레어와 롱&슬림 실루엣이, 남성복에서 롱&슬림, 스트레이트 실루엣이 실제트랜드에 많이 반영되었다.
(5) 내셔널브랜드 업체의 상품기획시에 다음시즌의 예측정보를 당시즌에 적용하는 경우가 높게 나타나 다음시즌의 예측정보가 한시즌 앞당겨 반영되는 경우를 보였다.그리고 업체자체에서 실시하는 소비자조사 결과도 상품기획에 많이 반영하고 있어 예측정보를 전적으로 반영하기보다는 소비자 요구에 발빠른 대응을 하고 있음을 알 수 있었다.
후속연구에서는 복종별 또는 브랜드 유형별, 그리고 Mass Fashion과 High Fashion과의 예측정보 수용도를 비교분석한다면 예측정보의 효율적 활용을 위한 방안을 제시할 수 있을 것으로 기대된다.

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

The purpose of the this thesis is to look into practical use style of forecasting information in field of cloth firms who doing role of transposing this forecasting information into "Mass Fashion" & look for what is the difference and common point between the fashion trend forecasting information and the actual trend in Mass Fashion, we tried to figure out how the fashion trend forecasting information contribute to Mass Fashion.
The research has been made through the survey with the sampleof 113 fashion specialists in charge of merchandise development.Meterials used for analysing are fashion journals published from 3 different national fashion laboratories and total 220 articles from 3 national newspapers & 1 economic newspaper.
Analyzing area of forecasting information & articles were limited to fashion image, color, fabric, style.Frequency, percentage, ANOVA, t-test, χ² were used for data analyzation.
What are the result as follows;
1) The practical use of fashion trend forecasting information;
(1) The most used information source of domestic fashion information among fashion specialists in national brand of women's apparel industry was 'Fashion journals'.'Fashion Fair Reference Data' was revealed as the source of overseas's. In case of men's apparel industry, domestic source was 'conference of fashion institutes & fashion reference seminar' and overseas source was 'Overseas fashion show or exhibition'
(2) 'Overseas information at fabric field' testified to all as the most used information, having the most credible & harmonic degree.
(3) Foreign fashion information was more used than domestic's at all fields except 'fabric referenced information' at men's apparel industry. We think that the designers & merchandiser would prefer to credit 'Foreign fashion information' than 'domestic's so that it's usage also higher than domestic's when develop merchandise comparing their frequency.
(4) Many national brand firms reflect 'Research result' executed by themselves to merchandise development. In other words, consumer's research through consultation to sales personnel were used a lot and also they preferred to use the information of 'Preferable style·color' for both Men's & Women's apparel(Men's apparel 47.2%, Women's apparel 50.7%) as source of consumer's need. It means that they not only reflect all the forecasting information but also tried to response to target customer's need.
2) Fashion trend forecasting Information acceptancy of mass fashion according to every season and year;
(1) The following effect was proved for women's apparel regarding forecasting information acceptancy of every seasonal fashion image.
The 'military' on S/S season & 'romantic·feminine' on F/W season in 1997, avant-garde & minimalism on F/W 1998, 1999's F/W of ethnic image from hippy syndrome, these all were it's actual trend at that time & also was forecasting information for next year. This effect was created by merchandisers who are working for both men's apparel & women's apparel because fashion specialists launched expected trend in advance.
(2) Regarding forecasting information acceptancy for women's apparel at every season and year, 1999's blue on S/S, 1997's yellow on F/W, black on F/W in 1995 & both seasons in 1996 - these colors - were reflected on actual trends among the low acceptancy colors and 1999's dark&deep tone on S/S season were only showed on forecasting information but not on actual. At the reverse, gray(98's S/S, 99' both season, 97' F/W) and pastel tone color(95's S/S, 96's S/S, 98's S/S) were proved to have high acceptancy. In case of men's apparel forecasting information generally reflected a lot to actual trend, especially on yellow, gray and light tone color range.
(3) Fabric's forecasting information acceptancy was like follows.
Natural fabric & Polyester considerably showed higher acceptancy at every season for both men's & women's apparel and artificial leathery for women's apparel, showed lower acceptancy, appeared frequently on actual trend besides forecasting information.
Among the texture from forecasting information, thin & transparent, metallic and stretch fabric showed higher acceptancy. And the pattern had higher acceptancy was natural·animal stripe pattern.
(4) Every seasonal style forecasting informations follow like this. The silhouettes showed higher acceptancy for women's apparel were "1995's S/S season's pit&flare, body-conscious at F/W in 1995 & at S/S in 1997, long&slim at F/W in 1996, 1997 and straight silhouette of 1999's F/W season.For men's apparel long&slim type silhouette from S/S in 1995 to F/W in 1997 showed higher acceptancy but the straight silhouette at both season in 1998 did not.
(5) The result of late 1990's general trendy style for fashion trend forecasting information acceptancy of late 1990's Mass Fashion is like follow. The actual trend's forecasting information acceptancy of general fashion image in late 1900's for women's apparel was higher at romantic·feminine images during all seasons.Especially on fall minimalism & ethnic image was highly reflected on actual trend comparing forecasting information but mannish image showed low acceptancy. For men's apparel androgynous trends mainly appeared in forecasting information as well as in actual trend at all seasons. However the classic image was also reflected a lot on actual trend.
(6) The color's forecasting information in late 1990's is like follow. For women's apparel on S/S the acceptancy of yellow, white, gray range was high and appearance of pastel tone on actual trend was overwhelmingly higher than forecasting information. In case of men's apparel acceptancy of blue & gray range was higher and yellow & pastel tone was reflected a lot on actual trend comparing forecasting information. For fall season women's apparel highly accepted yellow & light range but not for black range, pale & pastel tone. For men's apparel gray range & dark&deep tone showed the highest acceptancy.
(7) Regarding fabric material in late 1990's the acceptancy of natural fabric was high at both forecasting information & actual trend in common for men & women's apparel. Especially silk & wool appeared a lot. For S/S season thin&transparent fabric, at the point of texture, showed higher acceptancy for both men & women's apparel but metallic fabric showed lower acceptancy. On the other hand, thin&transparent fabric showed lower acceptancy for men & women's apparel in common but stretched(elastic) fabric showed lower acceptancy. Regarding pattern natural·animal pattern showed highest acceptancy for all season of women's apparel but for men's apparel solid pattern highly appeared on actual trend comparing forecasting information, however natural·animal pattern showed lower appearance.
(9) The acceptancy of style forecasting information in late 1990's was like follow. Among the silhouettes showed in forecasting information at S/S season pit&flare styles showed highest acceptancy. For men's apparel long&slim styles was introduced frequently in forecasting information, however straight silhouette was reflected the most on actual trend. At F/W season long&slim and pit&flare for women's apparel showed higher acceptancy but only long&slim for men's.
Next study should be executed for acceptancy of forecasting information on following range. It means that among all kinds of apparels (sport's wear, full dress, including causal dress) trendy comparative research must be done for acceptancy of forecasting information(Mass fashion and High fashion). Furthermore if the study for acceptancy of forecasting information of Mass fashion can befor brand style: licensed brand, designer's brand and national brand, it'll be expected to suggest effective & useful method for apparel style or brand style.

목차 (Table of Contents)

• I. 서론 = 1
• 1. 연구의의 및 목적 = 1
• 2. 연구문제 = 3
• 3. 연구범위 및 제한점 = 3
• 4. 용어정의 = 4
• II. 관련문헌고찰 = 5
• 1. 패션트랜드 예측정보의 개념과 종류 = 5
• 2. 예측정보 제시방법 = 15
• 3. 패션트랜드 예측정보 분석 및 활용 = 16
• 4. Mass Fashion = 23
• III. 연구방법 및 절차 = 26
• 1. 의류업체 패션정보 활용실태 파악 = 26
• 1) 표본특성 = 26
• 2) 조사도구 = 28
• 3) 조사절차 = 28
• 4) 분석방법 = 28
• 2. Mass Fashion의 예측정보 수용도 = 29
• IV. 연구결과 = 36
• 1. 의류업체의 상품기획시 패션예측정보 활용실태 = 36
• 2. Mass Fashion의 예측정보 수용도 = 46
• 1) 계절별·연도별 분석 = 46
• (1) 계절별·연도별 패션이미지 = 46
• (2) 계절별·연도별 색채 = 52
• (3) 계절별·연도별 소재 = 59
• (4) 계절별·연도별 스타일 = 68
• 2) 1990년대 후반전체의 계절별 분석 = 75
• (1) 1990년대 후반전체의 계절별 패션이미지 = 75
• (2) 1990년대 후반전체의 계절별 색채 = 78
• (3) 1990년대 후반전체의 계절별 소재 = 83
• (4) 1990년대 후반전체의 계절별 스타일 = 88
• V. 결론 및 제언 = 91
• 참고문헌 = 96
• Abstract = 100
• 부록 = 105