20대 여성의 유방유형에 따른 인체공학적 브래지어 패턴 설계 = Ergonomic pattern design of brassiere for breast shapes in 20's females

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

The purpose of this study is to develop functional brassiere for various shapes of breasts of women in their twenties. First, the study will evaluate the appearance and the wearability of brassiere on the market once being put on and find out the drawbacks. Second, it will develop brassiere patterns reflecting various features of breast type and assess the wearability. Third, it will develop a functional brassiere pattern with suspension system and measure the wearability.

Brassiere pattern is based on both ESMOD pattern and Korean pattern of business. It has three quarters cup round shape and also consists of three parts; upper cup, lower cup, and wings. Breast types are classified into five shapes; ideal breast, flat breast, upper developed breast, lower developed breast, and projecting breast. After classifying the types, we designed brassieres applying 20 kinds of detail sizes for each breast type. Two subjects for each breast type wore the brassiere, and they twice evaluated the appearance and wearability.

The results of this study are as follows:

1. The results of wearing experiments of a divided shape brassiere and a mold shape one on the market indicates that the former is evaluated lower than the latter in terms of appearance and wearability. In order to improve this result, a divided shape brassiere pattern is considered suitable to design a flat pattern of brassiere reflecting breast types.

2. First Study pattern brassiere designed to fit into the breast shape reflecting details of breast size is assessed to be superior to the brassiere on the market designed only based on bust measurement in terms of appearance and wearability. However, wings’ tightness of first study pattern brassiere turns out rather high. Thus, to improve wearing satisfaction, extra was added to wing.

3. Based on the results of wearing experiments of first study pattern brassiere, we adjusted and modified second study pattern brassiere. After that, its appearance and wearability were evaluated to be improved. To be specific, for the flat breast pattern, we inserted 0.6cm padding to increase volume. For upper developed breast pattern, we extended the length of lower part to balance upper and lower part, as the upper part was rather long. The lower developed breast has the closest feature to the ideal breast, which implies it does not require much to be improved. Projecting breast pattern has minimal space in the lower part, so we added the support to lift them to be close to the ideal breasts. For all the breast shapes, we reduced the wings' tightness from 8% to 7% so that we could extend the length of the wings.

4. For the projecting breast shape which showed the lowest score on the evaluation, it seems that breasts need more lift and gathering toward the middle part. To improve this, we developed suspension system brassieres by patching lower panel, side panel, and dual panel respectively inside of the brassiere cup. With this system, we could enhance the appearance and the wearability. Especially, the suspension system with lower panel attachment shows partial improvement that it does not give much pressure to large volume projecting breast.

According to the aforementioned study results, we could conclude that even though bust measurement and breasts volume are identical, brassiere pattern reflecting details of breast size and breast types improve the appearance and wearability as breast types of women in their twenties differ. Brassiere patched suspension system panel for large volume projecting breast could be improved in light of the appearance and wearability by lifting breasts upward and gathering them toward the middle. To produce mold shape brassiere, it is necessary to produce brassiere applied the molded cup in ideal breast shape for each breast type by utilizing 3D body measuring method. To produce a mold shape brassiere suitable for flat breast, it is required to produce prosthesis of a cup supporting natural volume inside by utilizing 3D body measuring method. The upper developed breast needs more study about its cup pattern which has more space in lower part to prevent droopy looking breast which results from short lower part. To produce a suspension system brassiere suitable for projecting breast, it is required to do the follow-up research about shape and size of the panel, flexibility and thickness of the material, etc. for various kinds of design developments.

목차 (Table of Contents)

• Ⅰ. 서 론 1
• Ⅱ. 이론적 배경 5
• 1. 유방유형의 분류 5
• 1) 유방유형의 분류 6
• 2) 국내 선행연구에서의 유방유형의 분류 8
• 2. 브래지어의 기능과 구조 13
• 1) 브래지어의 기능 13
• 2) 브래지어의 구조 14
• 3. 브래지어의 분류 16
• 1) 컵 높이에 따른 분류 16
• 2) 날개 형태에 따른 분류 17
• 3) 패턴 구성에 따른 분류 18
• 4) 기능성과 보정성에 따른 분류 18
• 4. 브래지어 패턴의 구성 21
• 5. 브래지어의 외관 및 착용감 평가 25
• 1) 브래지어의 외관평가 25
• 2) 브래지어의 착용감 평가 26
• Ⅲ. 연구방법 29
• 1. 패턴설계 및 브래지어 제작 31
• 1) 패턴설계를 위한 피험자 신체계측 31
• 2) 연구 브래지어의 패턴설계 34
• 3) 소재 물성과 봉재 순서 47
• 2. 착의평가 실험 49
• 1) 피험자 선정 49
• 2) 실험 조건 52
• 3) 시판 브래지어 선정 54
• 4) 외관 및 착용감 평가 54
• 3. 자료 분석 62
• Ⅳ.연구 결과 및 고찰 63
• 1. 시판 브래지어에 대한 착의평가 63
• 1) 시판 절개형과 몰드형 브래지어의 외관평가 63
• 2) 시판 절개형과 몰드형 브래지어의 착용감 평가 74
• 2. 유방유형별 연구패턴1 브래지어의 설계 85
• 1) 연구패턴1 브래지어의 유방유형별 패턴 비교 85
• 2) 미적유방과 4가지 유방유형의 브래지어 패턴 중첩 90
• 3. 연구패턴1 브래지어의 착의평가 94
• 1) 시판 절개형과 연구패턴1 브래지어의 외관평가 94
• 2) 시판 절개형과 연구패턴1 브래지어의 착용감 평가 107
• 4. 연구패턴2 브래지어의 착의평가 117
• 1) 연구패턴2 브래지어의 패턴설계 117
• 2) 연구패턴2 브래지어의 외관평가 124
• 3) 연구패턴2 브래지어의 착용감 평가 134
• 5. 현수시스템 브래지어의 착의평가 144
• 1) 현수시스템 브래지어의 패턴설계 144
• 2) 하부패널 브래지어의 착의평가 146
• 3) 사이드패널 브래지어의 착의평가 149
• 4) 이중패널 브래지어의 착의평가 152
• Ⅴ. 결론 및 제언 157
• 참고문헌 162
• 부 록 167