알지네이트, 녹차씨오일, 숭어추출물이 염색과 탈색모발의 물리적 손상에 미치는 영향 = Effects of Alginate, Green Tea Seed Oil, and Gray Mullet Extract on Physical Damage of Colored and Bleached Hair

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

This study examined primary chemical damage of hair in the process of colored and bleached and secondary hair damage after hair styling. Then, physical heat treatment was conducted with hair and rinsing and washing was repeated to investigate the effects of the use of shampoo, heat of hair dryer, and magic straight and iron tools which are repeated daily on hair damage.
Next, to examine a treatment effect in the repeated damage process, alginate, green tea seed oil, and gray mullet extract which could influence protein, fat, and vitamin A, and water of hair were treated to hair.
1. As a result of tensile strength and elongation testing to measure physical change of hair, in the repeated process of chemical colored and bleached, tensile strength became 2.26 gram force (gf)(virgin hair), 1.82 gf (bleached hair), and 1.71 gf (colored hair) and elongation became 48.9% (bleached), 46.82% (colored), and 41.27% (virgin).
2. For the alginate treatment group, in physical re-damage process after chemical damage, tensile strength showed a 13.20% increase in the colored hair but a 13.94% decrease in the virgin hair and a 4.41% decrease in the bleached hair compared to no treatment sample. Elongation showed a 9.60% increase in the colored hair but a 14.04% decrease in the virgin hair and a 8.29% decrease in the bleached hair compared with no treatment sample. It should be noted that although the alginate sample felt softer and much smoother than the no treatment sample, it is greatly influenced by humidity in atmosphere and may become sensitive to dry weather in season. For cuticle morphology, cuticles were peeled, marking became unclear, interval was irregular, and even some had holes. The alginate group was decreased in peeling and separation of cuticle compared with the no treatment group, suggesting improvement effect. It may partly because alginate coats a cuticle surface and acts as cement in irregular cracking parts, resulting in decreased peeling.
3. For the green tea seed oil treated group, in physical re-damage process after chemical damage, tensile strength showed a 4.24% increase in the virgin hair, a 1.88% decrease in the colored hair, and a 15.72% increased in the bleached hair. Elongation showed a 0.46% increase in the virgin hair but a 4.27% decrease in the colored hair and a 1.7% decrease in the bleached hair. For cuticle change, although the green tea seed oil treated group showed more stable improvement effect than the no treatment group, many unknown substances were adhered with too much oil in the sample.
4. For the gray mullet extract treated group, in physical re-damage process after chemical damage, tensile strength showed a 8.49% decrease in the virgin hair and a 9.43% increase in the colored hair but there was no change in the bleached hair. Elongation showed a 3.19% increase in the virgin hair and a 3.51% increase in the colored hair but a 3.71% decrease in the bleached hair compared with no treatment sample. The gray mullet extract treated group was more stable in cracking than the no treatment group. In hair after bleached, a cuticle boundary was clearly improved, but cuticle separation appeared.
Finally, further study should be conducted with natural hair products which can improve qualitative damage with different concentration of quantitative components.

국문 초록 (Abstract)

hair styling이후 2차적인 모발 손상이 어느 정도 인지를 알아보기 위해 모발을 물리 적으로 열처리하고 수세를 반복하여 고객이 일상생활에서 반복되어지는 샴푸와 드라 이열, 매직, 아이롱기구 등의 사용이 모발의 손상에 어느 정도 영향을 주는지 알아
보았다.
그러한 재 손상 과정 중에서 트리트먼트의 효과를 알아보기 위해 모발의 단백질과 지방, 비타민A, 수분 등에 영향을 줄 수 있는 알지네이트, 녹차씨오일, 숭어추출물을 이용하여 각각의 모발에 트리트먼트를 하여 실험하였다.

1. 모발의 물리적 변화를 측정하기 위해 인장강도와 신장율을 실험한 결과 모발은 화 학적인 염색과 탈색을 반복하는 과정에서 인장강도가 각각 버진2.26gf>탈색1.82gf> 염색1.71gf로 감소되었으며 신장율은 탈색48.09%>염색46.82%>버진41.27%로 탈색 모가 가장 높게 나타났다.

2. 알지에이트 처리군은 화학적 손상이후 물리적인 재손상 과정 중 무처리 시료에 비 해 인장 강도가 염색시료에서 13.20%증가하였으며 버진헤어에서는 13.94%감소 탈 색 헤어에서는 4.41%감소하였고 신장율은 염색 헤어에서는 무처리 시료에 비해 9.60% 증가하고 버진헤어에서는 14.04% 감소하고 탈색헤어에서는 8.29% 감소 하였 다.
이는 알지네이트 처리군이 무처리 시료에 비해 촉감으로 느끼기에는 부드럽고 매끈 하지만 공기 중의 수분의 영향을 많이 받는바 계절적으로 건조한 날씨에 민감해 질 것이라고 생각된다.
큐티클 형태의 변화에서는 염색과 탈색이 반복 되어 지면서 큐티클은 박리되고 문 리도 선명하지 않으며 간격 또한 일정하지 않고 구멍이 뚫리기도 하였다.
알지네이트 처리군은 무처리 시료에 비해 큐티클의 박리나 들뜸 현상이 줄어들어 개선효과가 나타남을 볼 수 있다.
이는 알지네이트가 모발 큐티클의 표면을 감싸고 불규칙적으로 깨어진 부분에 시멘 트 역할을 하여 박리 현상이 줄어든 것으로 볼 수 있다.
3. 녹차씨오일 처리군은 화학적 손상이후 물리적 재손상 과정 중 모발의 인장 강도가 버진 헤어에서 4.24%증가하고 염색헤어에서 1.88%증가 탈색헤어에서 15.72% 증가 하였다.
신장율은 버진헤어 0.46%증가, 염색 4.27%감소, 탈색1.7% 감소하였다.
큐티클의 형태변화에서는 녹차씨오일 처리군이 무처리 시료에 비해 큐티클의 형태 가 안정적으로 개선효과가 보이나 시료가 오일성분이 많아서 이물질의 흡착이 많이 보였다.
4. 숭어추출물 처리군은 화학적 손상이후 물리적 재손상 과정 중 무처리 시료에 비해 모발의 인장 강도가 버진헤어에서 8.49% 감소하고 염색헤어에서 9.43% 증가 하였 으며 탈색헤어에서는 변화가 없었다.
그러나 신장율 측정에서는 버진헤어에서 무처리 시료에 비해 3.19%증가하고 염색 헤어에서는 3.51%증가, 탈색헤어에서 3.71%감소하였다.
숭어추출물 처리군의 큐티클의 형태변화는 숭어추출물 처리군이 무처리군에 비해 깨어짐이 안정되어 보이나 탈색 처리후의 헤어에서는 큐티클의 경계선은 뚜렷하게 개선되어 보이나 큐티클의 들뜸 현상이 나타나 보인다.

이와 같은 연구결과 본 실험에서는 기초적인 실험으로서 각각의 트리트먼트 시료를 사용하였으나 그 개선효과가 부분적으로 나타남으로 향후 연구에서는 각각의 농도를 달리하고 성분을 정량화하여 보다 질적인 손상도 개선을 기대할 수 있는 천연 제품의 모발 화장품 연구가 필요하다고 본다.

목차 (Table of Contents)

• 목 차
• LIST OF TABLES ····································· ⅳ
• LIST OF FIGURES ····································· ⅴ
• ABSTRACT ·············································· ⅵ
• 제 1 장 서 론 ·················································· 1
• 1. 연구목적과 내용·············································· 1
• 제 2 장 이론적 배경··········································· 4
• 1. 모발의 특성··················································· 4
• 1) 모발의 구조·················································· 4
• 2) 모발의 기능·················································· 7
• 3) 모발의 성질·················································· 8
• 2. 모발 손상의 원인············································ 11
• 3. 모발의 염색·················································· 12
• 1) 염색모의 특징·············································· 12
• 2) 영구염모제의 구성성분····································· 12
• 4. 모발의 탈색·················································· 14
• 1) 탈색모의 특징·············································· 14
• 2) 탈색제의 구성성분·········································· 14
• 5. 헤어 트리트먼트제·········································· 15
• 1) 헤어트리트먼트의 종류····································· 15
• 2) 실험 트리트먼트············································ 17
• (1) 알지네이트의 특성········································· 17
• (2) 녹차씨오일의 특성········································· 19
• (3) 숭어추출물의 특성········································· 21
• 제 3 장 실 험·················································· 23
• 1. 실험 모발 제작·············································· 23
• 2. 실험 방법···················································· 23
• 1) 염색 및 탈색················································ 23
• 2) 트리트먼트 시료처리······································· 25
• (1) 알지네이트················································ 25
• (2) 녹차씨오일················································ 26
• (3) 숭어추출물················································ 27
• 3. 측정 방법···················································· 28
• 1) 인장강도 및 신장율 측정··································· 28
• 2) 모발의 큐티클 SEM 촬영·································· 29
• 제 4 장 실험결과·············································· 31
• 1. 알지네이트··················································· 31
• 1) 알지네이트 처리군의 인장강도 및 신장율의 변화········· 31
• 2) 알지네이트 처리군의 큐티클 SEM 형태의 변화··········· 36
• 2. 녹차씨오일··················································· 39
• 1) 녹차씨오일 처리군의 인장강도 및 신장율의 변화········· 39
• 2) 녹차씨오일 처리군의 큐티클 SEM 형태의 변화··········· 43
• 3. 숭어추출물··················································· 46
• 1) 숭어추출물 처리군의 인장강도 및 신장율의 변화········· 46
• 2) 숭어추출물 처리군의 큐티클 SEM 형태의 변화··········· 50
• 제 5 장 요약 및 결론········································ 53
• 참고문헌·························································· 55