자카드직물의 패턴디자인과 제직공정에 관한 연구 = Studies on the pattern design and weaving process of jacquard fabrics

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

The object of this study is to establish systematically the Jacquard fabric design development process and to analyze comprehensively the influencing factors of the decorative pattern combined with the weave structure and the yarn color of fabrics in order to make the optimization of Jacquard fabric design. And this thesis suggests the method to develop the efficient and economical Jacquard fabric designs by selecting the decorative pattern model and verifying the its suitability of a Jacquard weaving process.
The procedure of this study, first of all, was performed the analysis on the final usage and the pattern type of Jacquard fabrics through the surveyed data from the domestic and foreign textile fashion magazines during recent 5 years (2000-2004). Based on this result, the systematical application methods were explored to present the Jacquard fabric design development process.
To elaborate the decorative pattern of Jacquard fabric design, the two approaching methods, i.e. vertical and horizontal methods, were investigated and the correlation between the factor of decorative patterns and figured designs was analyzed for determining an ideal decorative pattern model. Furthermore, the selected decorative patterns were performed with computer simulation and the patterns were verified with the design patterns of the product manufactured by actual Jacquard looms. And then the application possibility of the simulated pattern to the Jacquard production line was examined.
The results of this study can be summarized as follows:
1. The development process of Jacquard fabric designs was systematized and presented in the five steps such as drawing of design concepts, fabric design, color/weave selection, pattern simulation, and weaving process. The important factor of Jacquard fabric designs was classified as densities of warp and weft yarns, width and length of drawing patterns, Jacquard hook, weaving type, selection of decorative pattern, and design paper zoom. The design process of the selected decorative patterns by utilizing CAD system was presented in the order of scanning date, input of hook, input of design paper, color reduction, color correction, pattern completion, weave structure, pattern simulation, and output of designed pattern.
2. The most elaborate method of decorative patterns among the considered four ways was the d type consisted of full sized pattern for both warp and weft yarns, but the b type consisted of half sized pattern for warp yarn and full sized pattern for weft yarn took as half time as the d type. It was found that the b type was considerably efficient in terms of labor costs saving through the reduction of working time in the pattern design operation. The decorative expression of the d type appeared the most elaborate. But it was not economical due to taking long time.
3. The working time of the decorative pattern was proportional to hook and pattern size. However, for the weaving type, single woven fabrics took longer time than double weft fabrics, because the double weft fabrics was expressed the half of the weft density on a computer screen, and thus the working time was reduced compared to that of single woven fabrics. As the result, the working time of the decorative pattern process significantly depended on the density of warp yarns, hook, the difficulty level of patterns, and the skill of designers.
4. In the decorative pattern process by utilizing the CAD system, the pattern size was proportional to hook, while inversely proportional to the densities of warp and weft yarn. In case of the same thickness of warp and weft yarns, the surface structure of single woven fabrics showed more dense and stiff appearances. In addition, the interlacing slope on the surface of Jacquard fabrics was linearly proportional to the density of warp yarns.
5. As the result of pattern simulations, the color and weave textures of decorative patterns appeared more clear shapes with increasing the thickness of weft yarns(21d×2, 21d×4, 21d×6, and 21d×8). Especially, in the case of double weft fabrics, as the thickness of weft yarn was increased, the length of designed patterns had an increasing trend compared to single woven fabrics. Also, the surface structure of the fabrics had the improvement of the three dimensional effect. Considering the fact that the pattern size of the design expressed with 2,400 hooks was twice bigger than that of 1,200 hooks, it was indicated that the elaborateness and stiffness of the fabrics had increased with the extent of densities of warp and weft yarns.
6. Through the surface color measurement of the actually produced fabrics, it was revealed that the color differences of double weft fabrics and single woven fabrics were significantly changed with design factors, such as yarn density, pattern size, and Jacquard hook, and that the same weaving types showed no color difference. Particularly, for the design development of double weft fabrics, the thickness of weft yarns had significantly effects on the clarity of surface color appearance. Thus, the double weft fabrics were more affected than single woven fabrics on the surface color difference. Furthermore, it was revealed that the covering factor of Jacquard fabrics was strongly affected on the yarn density and weaving type, while it did not have any effect on the pattern size related to the Jacquard hook.
Consequently, It is hoped that the results obtained through this study will be utilized as the basic data for the Jacquard fabric design development enabling industries to create high added value products.

목차 (Table of Contents)

• 제 1 장 서 론 = 1
• 제 1 절 연구의 필요성 = 1
• 제 2 절 연구의 목적 = 4
• 제 3 절 연구내용 및 구성 = 4
• 제 2 장 이론적 배경 = 7
• 제 1 절 자카드직물의 특성 = 7
• 1. 정의와 특징 = 7
• 2. 발달과정과 생산 프로세스 = 11
• 3. 직물디자인과 CAD시스템 = 17
• 제 2 절 자카드직물의 용도와 문양 = 20
• 1. 자카드직물의 용도 = 22
• 2. 자카드직물의 문양 = 28
• 제 3 장 연구절차 및 방법 = 34
• 제 1 절 자카드직물의 디자인개발 프로세스 = 35
• 1. 디자인 방향설정 = 35
• 2. 정보수집과 전개 = 37
• 3. 디자인 패턴제시 = 38
• 제 2 절 의장설계 분석 = 39
• 1. 수평적 접근법 = 39
• 2. 수직적 접근법 = 41
• 3. 직물패턴과 표면형태 = 42
• 4. 작업시간 분석 = 42
• 제 3 절 시뮬레이션 패턴과 시직물의 비교분석 = 43
• 1. 시뮬레이션 패턴의 비교 = 43
• 2. 시직물의 비교와 검증절차 = 44
• 제 4 장 연구결과 및 고찰 = 46
• 제 1 절 자카드직물의 디자인개발 프로세스 = 46
• 1. 컨셉 및 도안 = 46
• 2. 직물설계 = 46
• 3. 의장 = 48
• 4. 패턴 시뮬레이션 = 55
• 5. 천공과 제직공정 = 56
• 제 2 절 자카드직물 패턴디자인의 영향요인 분석 = 58
• 1. 수평적 접근법 = 60
• 2. 수직적 접근법 = 71
• 제 3 절 시뮬레이션 패턴과 시직물의 비교분석 = 83
• 1. 시뮬레이션 패턴의 비교 = 83
• 2. 시직물의 비교와 검증 = 93
• 제 5 장 결론 및 제언 = 102
• 제 1 절 요약 및 결론 = 102
• 제 2 절 연구의 한계 및 제언 = 106
• 참고문헌 = 108
• 부록 = 112