불화로 살펴본 조선시대 거두미의 시원에 관한 고찰 = A Consideration on Origin of Geodumi in Joseon Dynasty based on Buddhist Paintings

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

This study is to examine the origin of Geodumi a hair style of Naemyungbu in Joseon Dynasty. Geodumi is one of the most peculiar female hair styles in Joseon. But there have been no studies on from when and why it began to be used. So, the author tries to find out the clue of the shape in the Buddhist paintings, searching back from the photos of late Joseon. As the result, it was known that the basic style of Geodumi is to stick the lifted-up form on the back hair, which had been made of real hair before King Jeongjo but made of wood after his enthronement. And, according to the most ancient < Chaegniedogamuigue >, it was used as a part of decoration along with Daesu. Among the Buddhist paintings, there were some notable materials that satisfy this condition unexpectedly in early Joseon ones and even in Goryeo ones. The woman on < Suwolgwaneumdo > drawn in about early Joseon and late Goryeo turned to be Namyang Hongssi the daughter-in-law of King Jeongjong, and the Geodumi-type crown have received much attention from people. In the Buddhist painting of Goryeo paintings, queens frequently appear. On their heads, the Geodumi crowns are seen, having connection with those in Joseon Buddhist paintings. The women in Tunhuang paintings were from the noble class of Tang Dynasty, and their hair style must have been introduced to Gyeongju as a part of royal grant clothing from China after unification. The name was Ssanghwanmangseongye, reflecting the Sinseon(divine hermit) idea. After the unification of 3 kingdoms, the hair style of Tang women influenced on Korean women till the late Joseon and became a character of Korean classical hair style.