朝鮮朝 中後期 宮中服飾 硏究 : 歷代 服飾造進記錄을 中心으로 = A Study on Court Dress in the Late Yi-Dynasty

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

A lot of historical records on court dress in YI-Dynasty have been handed down to us. Some of the most reliable ones are Jung-Rye, Ui-Gwe, bal-Gi etc. Jung-Rye is a regulation of making court dresses. Ui-Gwe is a report on making court dresses for royal weddings and the like. Bal-Gi is a detailed record of the making process of court dresses.
This study intends to compare and analyze the three literatures, thus making it possible to grasp the actualities of court dresses.
The resultant findings are as follows:
(1) Court dresses are composed of Chinese-style coats worn on the outside, and Korean-style jackets and slacks worn inside the coat. Gon-Ryong-Po is a Chinese-style outside dress, on the inside of which Ga-Mun-Ja, Chup-Ri and Ri-Ui are usually worn. In addition to them, Korean -style, the jackets and slacks are worn inside them. At the end of Yi-Dynasty, Chinese-style coats began to disappear, and Korean style jackets and slacks as inside manner of dressing. Records on undergarments are kept only in Jung-Rye, Ui-Gwe, and Bal-Gi.
(2) One of the most generally worn dresses in the court was Chup-Ri. It was worn: a) as an undergarment for a coat suit, b) as an outer garment for everyday wear, and c) as a military uniform. When a Chup-Ri was worn as an outer garment, the undergarment was Aek-Joo Um. The others not specified here are the same as the case of Gon-Ryong-Po. Chup-Ri is a one-piece style robe, in which the jacket and skirt are attached as one. Only six of this kind of garment remain today. It shows a tendency that as time passed, the skirt became shorter, and narrow sleeves became wider.
(3) Ga-Mun-Ja and Aek-Joo-Um are shown only in Ui-Gwe. Their shapes are not obvious but their required materials are the same as Dab-ho, a sleeveless tunic. It seems that Aek-Joo-Um was a type of robe dress.
(4) For court headdresses, Nyon-Kwan of Myon-Bok, and Tong-Chun-Kwan of Gang-Sa-Po, and Ik-Sum-Kwan of Gon-Ryong-Po have been known up to date, but Jung-Rye and Ui-Gwe record Ma-Doo-Myon, and unknown head dress. In addition, these records indicate that Ma-Mi-Doo-Myon was worn together with Gon-Ryong-Po or Chup-Ri. It was a rule to wear Ik-Sun-Kwasn for Gon-Ryong-po. But it is a newly clarified fact that Ma-Mi-Doo-Myon was also worn. This should be manifested from other data. Jung-Rye says that Ma-Mi-Doo-Myon was a kind of Gat made of horsehairs, but the shapes is not obvious.
(5) The court dresses do not show a considerable change even over a long period of time because they had been worn and used in the strictest form, however, by the end of the dynasty they suffered a lot of changes.

목차 (Table of Contents)

• Ⅰ. 序論
• Ⅱ. 宮中服飾의 定制
• A. 宮中服飾의 造進
• B. 宮中服飾의 衣次調達
• Ⅲ. 定例 및 儀軌에 나타난 各種 服飾
• A. 禮服
• B. 衣대
• C. 頭衣 및 足衣
• D. 大君 및 儀實服
• Ⅳ. 結論
• 參考文獻
• Abstract
• 附錄