下體部의 動作에 따른 Slacks의 製作時 여유분량에 관한 硏究 = The Study on the Marginal Part of Slacks in the Accordance with the Movement of the Lower Part of the Body

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

To establish a marginal part of slacks in accordance with motion and habitus, I hereby classified the married woman in their thirties by three habitus : thin, standard, and fat. Then affer selecting a standard classified by each habitus I studied the variation of body surface and the cross-cut method. I accordingly conducted a functional test by making a standard clothes of which the reasonable marginal parts-1cm, 1.5cm, 2cm, 2.5cm-had been established.
The results of the test are as follows;
1. Concerning the variation of body surface, the variation rate increased when the habitus became bigger, and the width of variation did when the radius of the
articutation movement became larger.
The widthe of increase classified by parts showed a considerable increase in Hip Girth, Thigh Girth, and Midle Waist Girth-the horizontal items-of habitus A, B, C. In the vertical items, Back Line, Front Line and Center Back Line showed a considerable increase. But Later Line showed a constraction in all movements. When marking proper slacks, the establishment of marginal part of Hip Girth in accordance with the habitus should be considered.
2. Concerning the analysis of space variation of cross-cut, the space variation increased when the movement became larger and the habitus became bigger.
3. As a result of the comparison between the variation of body surface and the space variation in Cross-cut method, the variation was remarkable when the movement became larger, and the length of slacks became longer. But when putting on clothes, the Cross-cut method having a restriction on articulation movement showed a considerable variation in measures. In consideration of the a fore-mentioned results, when making clothes, the establishment of marginal part, which took the fact that there is an interrelation between movement and wearing clothes because the restriction on articulation causes the decrease in a radius of movement when wearing clothes into serious consideration, is necessary.
4. The result of functional test;
Habitus A : The test clothes having marginal part of 1㎝ was rated good, getting 4.74marks in appearance test, 4.36marks in functional test.
Habitus B : The test clothes having marginal part of 1.5cm was also rated good,
getting 4.88marks in appearance test, 4.42marks in functional test.
Habitus C : The test clothes having marginal part of 2cm was rated best, getting 4.70marks in appearance test. The test clothes having marginal part of 2.5cm got 4.30marks in functional test.
In conclusion the establishment of marginal part of 0.5 to 1㎝ universally applicable in making a standard slacks causes the married women in their thirties to feel inconvenience on the parts of Center Front Line, Hip and Belly in functional and beautiful in silhouette as possible, the appropriate establishment of marginal parts assified by each habitus in essential.