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      • KCI등재

        20세기 치마·저고리의 소재 연구

        조효숙(Hyo Sook Cho),임현주(Hyun Joo Lim) 한국복식학회 2012 服飾 Vol.62 No.6

        This study analyzed the fabrics of Chima, Jeogori of the 20th century. It was based on Kyungwoon Museum relics, newspaper articles and photographs. This research focused on the transition process that has been organized into three stages. The first stage is from the opening of a port to the colonial period in Korea. By this time, the casual wear Hanbok was made with the traditional cotton and woolen textiles in addition to quite a lot of upscale clothing textiles. Stage two is from 1970s to the period after the liberation and Western Costumes represent the time of when the suit was mixed. At the time of the war, due to social and economic difficulties, convenience and practicality were emphasized rather than focusing on aesthetic characteristics. Third period is from the 1980s to the 1990s when the Hanbok was no longer considered a casual wear. Instead, its high quality and elegance redefined it to be a formal wear.

      • KCI등재

        안동 太師廟에 소장된 섬유류 유물에 대한 고찰

        조효숙(Cho Hyo-Sook),이은주(Lee Eun-Ju) 한복문화학회 2000 韓服文化 Vol.3 No.1

        The purpose of this thesis is to identify an era of the relics which have been kept in Teasameo, through the literary source, 'Younggaji(,kIUt)' and characteristics of the relics, and to analyze the weave techniques of silk fabrics of that period. The conclusions of this research are as followings. 1. The fabrics were granted by King 'Gongmin(恭民)' at the end of Koryo(高麗) dynasty. 2. The weave techniques of the silk relics include plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, and pattern design of which are all over arrangement of floral motifs. 3. The style of Bokdu(?頭) is more similar to the picture of the book, Achacgwibum(榮學軌範) published in Early Chosun(朝鮮初) period than to that of Koryo(高麗), so I suggest Bokdu was came from the period of Early Chosun. But it is difficult to identify an era from which the silk fan came.

      • KCI등재
      • KCI등재
      • KCI등재
      • KCI등재후보

        청송심씨 수윤(1534-1589)묘 출토직물에 관한 연구

        조효숙(Cho Hyo-sook) 한복문화학회 2004 韓服文化 Vol.7 No.2

        Excavated fabrics from shimsuryun's tomb totals at 85 in their numbers. The following is detailed numbers of total for each item, sorted by characteristics of the fabric. There are made UP 30 pieces of Ju, 3 pieces of Meonju, 2 pieces of seaju, 4 pieces of toju. 3 pieces of Cho, 3 pieces of Gyeon, 5 pieces of Hwamundan, 3 pieces of Mumundan, 3 pieces of Kumsun, 1 piece of Sameonkyojik, 20 pieces of Myeonpo, 5 pieces of Mapo and 3 pieces of jeopo. As shown in the preceding list, 67% of all the items are weaved from silk. It is found that other materials than silk is more abundant in Quantities. It's thought to be the reason that the deceased was positioned in .eunggDwJm. Patterns fabrics are used Cloud patterns and flower patterns.<br/> To note, names of the fabrics used in this article are based on the information from the literatures and are as following Ju, Cho, Gyeon, Dan, Keumsun, Myeonpo, Mapo and jeopo.<br/>

      • KCI등재
      • KCI등재

        驪興閔氏墓 출토직물과 17세기 『儀軌』 직물명칭의 비교연구

        조효숙(Cho Hyo-sook) 한복문화학회 2003 韓服文化 Vol.6 No.3

        Excavated fabrics from Yeoheoung-Min's tomb totals at 131 in their numbers. The following is detailed numbers and percentage out of total for each item, sorted by characteristics of the fabric. There are made up Ju 51%, Cho 9%, fM.amundan) 11%, Mumundan 1%, hWamunju 3%, fM.amunneung 8%, Ra 1%, A1Yeonix 5%, and Ma,oo 1%. k3 shown in the preceding list, 94% of all the items from the particular site is weaved silk. Though, the six fabrics itemized as Myeonpo and the one sheet of Mapa were not used for the purpose of everyday-dothing but were used as parts of cuffs of Jangui as inner linings. Thus, exempting these items, 31 fabricated itmes excavated out of 131 were made out of weaved silk.<br/> To note, names of the fabrics used in this artide are based on the information from the Womens' costumes of the Uigwe in 17C and are as following Dan, Neung, Ju, Ra, Cho, Myeonpo, Mapo. Patterns fabrics are used common and generic names as fM. mundan, hWamunju, fM.amunneung with the exception of Doud pattems. Names of the plain weaved silk fabrics - Seju, Toju, Ju, Ch Sukcho are sorted by types of silk yarn.<br/>

      • KCI등재

        조선시대 출토복식 중 포류(袍類)에 사용된 직물유형 연구

        조효숙(Hyo Sook Cho),임경화(Kyoung Wha Lim),김지연(Ji Yeon Kim) 한국복식학회 2003 服飾 Vol.53 No.4

        This study examined textiles used for the ancient costumes that are excavated from tombs of the Chosun dynasty, focusing especially on Po(overcoat). The result of the study is that silk occupies 79.8% of all the textiles used for Po, and cotton and linen follow. The weaving method of silk was primarily plain and satin weaves. However the use of twill, gauze, and double weave, that had led weaving methods of silk during the Koryo dynasty, are considerably decreased in Chosun dynasty. Danlyeong(團領) and Cheollik(帖裏) had been made of various textile fabrics like cotton, linen, silk and blended fabric before Imjinwaeran(壬辰倭亂). After the war, they were simplified in gauze weaved silk or satin weaved silk, And also patterned fabric were widely used for them than other Po. Simple fabrics like cotton, linen and plain weaved silk had been used for Aekjureum(腋主音) and Jiklyeong(直領) before Imjinwaeran. After the war, Jiklyeong was used as underwears of Danlyeong, so it was made of high quality patterned silk. Dopo(道袍) and Changuiryu(창의류) were mainly excavated from tombs after the war, high quality plain weaved silk are used than gorgeous patterned silk. For the Dapho(답호) and Bansuui(半袖衣), before the war, they were made with various textiles such as plain weaved silk, twill weaved silk, satin weaved silk, cotton, linen, and blended fabric. But after the war plain weave was mainly used. In Jangui(長衣), since it was mostly for women, many kinds of women`s patterned silk were used in than any other Po. There were only a few excavation of Simui(深衣) and most of them were made of ramie and were hemmed in black satin without pattern.

      • KCI등재

        현행수의의 실태 및 문제점

        조효숙(Hyo Sook Cho),안지원(Jee Won Ahn) 한국복식학회 2002 服飾 Vol.52 No.3

        The purpose of this study is to analyze the actual condition and problems of current ready-made shrouds. Current shrouds were formed after the 20th century and therefore are quite apart from its traditional precedents of Chosun Dynasty. In this respect, several problems can be pointed out. 1. The use of natural colored hemp as a primary textile of current shrouds is far from our tradition. Silk, ramie, and cotton have together with hemp. Also, more variety of colors can be used other than natural white. 2. The size of ready-made shrouds has to be categorized at least into three : large, medium and small 3. The pattern and sowing method of Dopo(도포) and Wonsam(원삼) should be corrected in line with those of the traditional Dopo(도포) and Wonsam(원삼). 4. The design and items of current ready-made shrouds have to break away from the standardized convention and should seek more of a variety that our rich tradition provide. 5. The rational index should be suggested so that consumers can compared the quality and price of ready-made shrouds available at their hands.

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