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장정임 ( Jung Im Jang ),이연희 ( Younhee Lee ) 복식문화학회 2018 服飾文化硏究 Vol.26 No.5
The purpose of this study is to serve as a reference for creative fashion design by analyzing the types and aesthetic characteristics of trompe l’oeil in contemporary men’s fashion. This research is an empirical study that utilizes both qualitative and quantitative methods to analyze fashion design cases and research articles such as academic papers and professional books. The study covers four major men’s collections: Paris, Milan, New York, and London. The period being analyzed is from 2005 Spring/Summer, which is widely regarded as a turning point at which men’s collections began rapidly, to 2019 Spring/Summer. The study analyzes 471 photos from domestic and international websites, with the following results. Types of trompe l’oeil in contemporary male fashion are classified into four types: (1) the deconstruction of clothing forms or creation methods, (2) optical illusions that create the effect of multiple layers of clothing on a single article of clothing and the reproduction of apparel details and clothing using 2D printing or embroideries, (3) realistic patterns on garments to create a camouflage effect, and (4) articles of clothing containing body images such as the chest, trunk, or internal human anatomy. These aesthetic characteristics in men’s fashion design using types of trompe l’oeil are playful, deconstructive, and decorative features based on hyper-reality. This study aims to acknowledge trompe l’oeil as being widely used in contemporary men’s fashion as a type of formative art, playing a crucial role in creative fashion design.
장정임(Jung Im Jang ),이연희(Youn Hee Lee) 한국복식학회 2013 服飾 Vol.63 No.3
The purpose of this study is to analyze the concept and characteristics of parody, and consider how parody was reflected in Thom Browne`s collection centering on the expressive method. Thus, this study will attempt to shed new light on the creative possibility and artistic value of parody in men`s fashion design. The methods are as follows. The ideas, characteristics and expressive methods that represent parody was considered by referencing various related books, papers, art critiques, etc. Based on this theoretical study, a case of Thom Browne`s collection (Thom Browne menswear: 2004 S/S-2012 F/W) was observed to find types of parody, attributes and significance. Photo material was collected through websites such as www.thombrowne.com, www.style.com, etc. The type and characteristics of parody expressed in Thom Browne`s collection was considered in the following aspects: imitative parody, critical parody and pastiche parody. Through such consideration, it was possible to realize the fashion designs that adapt Thom Browne`s parody are very deliberate and calculative. The designs convey exaggeration, destruction of form, emphasis on discontinuity, transition into attraction, aesthetics of unfamiliarity, characteristic aspects of irrationality and contradiction. Through the study, it was possible to see Thom Browne`s collection with parody adaptation shaping new creativity and broadening formative aspects in fashion design.
천위 ( Yu Chen ),장정임 ( Jung Im Jang ),이연희 ( Younhee Lee ) 복식문화학회 2018 服飾文化硏究 Vol.26 No.5
The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics and symbolism of peony, the traditional noble flower, create knit fashion designer applying the aesthetic beauty of flower, and suggest the various possibility of developing knit fashion design. As for the study method, the study conducted review on literature and previous studies to investigate on history, characteristics, symbolism of peony, and examined various expressive technique through previous studies about fashion design using flower images. To express characteristics of peony in three dimensions, the study investigated and reflected on crochet expressive technique to design 4 women’s knitwear. The results are as below. First, as shape of peony is big, voluminous, fancy and noble, it symbolizes wealth and beauty. Including red which is the generally known color of peony, there are yellow, white, pink, purple, green, blue, black, gray, white purple, white color. This study reflected characteristics and symbolism of peony and created knit fashion design applying abundant aesthetic characteristics of flower. Second, crochet method is advantageous as it is operable with thread and hooked crochet hook without time and space restriction, it can create unique fashion design. Crochet knitting on hand knit can diversity changes to express relief textures, and as there is no limit in size, it can be applied to small props to big pieces. This study suggested the various possibility of knit fashion design development and various expressive possibility on modern fashion design.
김성봉(Sung-Bong Kim),장정임(Jung-Im Jang) 한국산학기술학회 2016 한국산학기술학회논문지 Vol.17 No.8
본 연구는 비합리적 도박신념, 충동성, 스마트폰 중독이 청소년의 도박중독 여부(비중독군, 중독위험군)를 판별하는 데 주목적이 있었다. 이를 위해 제주지역 중·고등학교에 재학 중인 학생 1,420명을 대상으로 수집된 설문 자료를 분석하였 다. 도박중독 여부에 따라 비합리적 도박신념, 충동성, 스마트폰 중독에 차이가 있는지 알아보기 위해 독립표본 t-test를 하였 으며, 비합리적 도박신념, 충동성, 스마트폰 중독이 도박중독 여부를 어느 정도 판별할 수 있는지를 알아보기 위해 판별분석 을 하였다. 연구결과, 첫째, 청소년의 도박중독 여부에 따라 비합리적 도박신념, 충동성, 스마트폰 중독에 유의한 차이가 있었 으며, 세 변인 모두 중독위험군이 비중독군에 비해 유의하게 높게 나타났다. 둘째, 비합리적 도박신념, 충동성, 스마트폰 중독 은 중독위험군과 비중독군을 판별하는 유의한 설명변인임이 드러났다. 그리고 이들 변인들의 상대적 중요도를 살펴본 결과, 비합리적 도박신념이 가장 중요도가 높았으며, 다음으로 충동성, 스마트폰 중독 순으로 나타났다. 셋째, 비합리적 도박신념, 충동성, 스마트폰 중독으로 이루어진 판별함수가 62.5%의 적중률을 보이는 것으로 나타났다. 본 연구는 도박중독 여부와 관련 있는 특성을 밝힘에 따라 향후 청소년 도박중독 예방을 위한 프로그램 개발의 기초자료로서 의미가 있을 것이다. The main purpose of this study was to verify if irrational belief of gambling, impulsiveness, and smartphone addiction could discriminate adolescents' gambling addiction (addiction risk group, non-addicted group). To this end, a survey was performed targeting 1,420 middle and high school students living in Jeju. In order to examine the differences between irrational belief of gambling, impulsiveness, and smartphone addiction according to gambling addiction, independent sample t-test was conducted, and to determine if irrational belief of gambling, impulsiveness, and smartphone addiction could discriminate gambling addiction, discriminant analysis was conducted. As a result, first, there were significant differences between irrational belief of gambling, impulsiveness, and smartphone addiction according to adolescents' gambling addiction, and all the variables were significantly higher in the addiction risk group than in the non-addicted group. Second, irrational belief of gambling, impulsiveness, and smartphone addiction were important explanatory variables to discriminate between the addiction risk group and the non-addicted group. In addition, as a result of examining the relative importance of the variables, irrational belief of gambling was the most important, followed by impulsiveness and smartphone addiction. Third, a discriminant function consisting of irrational belief of gambling, impulsiveness, and smartphone addiction showed a 62.5% hit ratio. This study specified the determinant factors of gambling addiction, and has presented meaningful basic data for developing programs to prevent adolescents' gambling addiction in the future.