현대 패션에 표현된 남성 헤어스타일에 관한 연구

양취경(Chieu Kyung Yang),하경연(Kyung Yun Ha) 한국복식학회 2006 服飾 Vol.56 No.2

구성주의(構成主義) 예술의상(藝術衣裳)의 조형적(造形的) 특성(特性) 연구(硏究) -러시아 아방가르드 예술가(藝術家)들의 작품(作品)을 중심(中心)으로-

양취경 ( Chieu Kyung Yang ) 한국패션비즈니스학회 2001 패션 비즈니스 Vol.5 No.4

Artist`s creative works is accomplished in the very complicated network being in fluenced each other, getting celebrate from surround and center, and showing repetition and change. It took an important role of 1920`s culture with new social and mental feature generated by revolution. It also has been influenced on an intellectual paradigm and artistic tendency. According to the feather the Art to Wear of Constructivism, at first, design as absolution of folk art in Russia prior to the concept is coming up to systematic design and useful article`s performance. Courageous arrangement of color and rhythm is unique. The second is a tendency clothing design of productirism. It is connected with material culture and artists insisted creature of productive material that is a essential in life than Arts in museum. The third, tendency clothing design of minimalism emphasis functional aspect that is produced industrial aesthetics. The examples are simply designed and functional cloths for sorking uniform. This thesis is studied about clothing and textiles of major artists, formative property, and international reflection from October revolution in 1917 that is strengthen a system by introducing a new economic policy to a five year plan.

다문화시대 하이브리드 패션과 메이크업에 관한 연구

양취경 ( Chieu Kyung Yang ),김경란 ( Gyung Ran Kim ) 服飾文化學會 2005 服飾文化硏究 Vol.13 No.3

비인공방 (Wiener Werkstaette) 에 형성된 예술의상연구

양취경(Chieu Kyung Yang) 한국복식학회 1996 服飾 Vol.29 No.-

It was the year of 1903 when avantgarde artists in Vienna gave a birth to the Wiener Werkstaette under the influence of Aesthetic Movement and Guild of Handicraft from England. This study is on the backgrounds of the birth of the Wiener Werkstaette, its artistic motto and world-wide echo it provoked. This thesis goes back to the time when the decadent Wiener Secession shaped up, refiewing the Reform Movement, It also covers characteristic works of major members of the Wiener Werkstaette which were produced on the basis of the concept of Gesmtkunstwerk. The conclusion of this study is that; 1. Without losing its own specific features, various fields of formative arts were combinded together coherently and succeeded to realize the idealistic art, that is the composite are (Gesamtkunstwerk) 2. The Wiener Werkstaette was strongly opposed to the ready-made clothes which became popular as the society was Industrialized and commercialized. Unlike those ready-to-wear clothes, those members of the Wiener Werkstaette prefered to make each clothes with different materials and printed their own unique pattern designs. 3. As a result of close relationships between the Wiener Werkstaette and paul Poiret, `Studio Martine` was established in Pares and new patteren deslhns were introduced by Raoul Dufy. 4. After the break-out of World War One, cultural exchanges with other foreign countries were virtually cut off and the Wiener Werkstaette was disconnected from the influence of Paris. That was the motive for Wiener Werkstaette to start building up its unique artistic style with peculiar materials, techniques and methods of production. Those brisk and creative activities of the Wiener Werkstaette brought forth the Golden perlod of 1920`s 5. Its historic design and ornamental pattern were assessed as a prelude to the Post-modernism. Since the late 1970s, with the rediscovery of the culture of Vienna in 1900s, the Art to wear which was created by the `Wiener Werkstaette` but, unfortunately, tucked away by the Greate Depression and Nationalism has been revaluated and studied. In Korea, it was since 1985 when `the art to wear` began to gain attention widely. It is urged that the theory of the `Gesamtkunstwerk` should be also accepted and shared earnestly.

꽃의 형태미를 응용한 의상디자인 연구

박현주(Hyun Joo Park),양취경(Chieu Kyung Yang) 한국복식학회 2002 服飾 Vol.52 No.3

The purpose of this study lies in pursuing the unique plastic arts with the orchid motif which has the graceful colors and a variety of shapes beauty. Another aspect of this study intends to create the modern costume design with the high added value by expressing the texture according to the material and tissue development for the continual improvement and promotion of the modern costume design in the handicraft art area. The results through the theoretical survey and the work production are as follows: First, the orchid which has the various shapes and colors provides the designers with the unique plastic arts and the possibilities for the unlimited expressions as the design motives. Second, we can see the creation of cubic plastic beauty in the moving line, as the material which has the flexible and brilliant shape fixation, used for expressing the shape beauty of the orchid. Third, this study reveals the extension of expression areas as a characteristic of the plastic arts by applying handicraft techniques such as dyeing, corded tuck, flounce, crochet, weaving, beads embroidery, and art flower to the costumes for developing the unique material and texture. Finally, the possibility is suggested that the desires of the modems searching for their own individualities can be met by creating the costumes with the value as the exposure of esthetic consciousness through the handicraft expression techniques.

영화 [위험한 관계]와 [스캔들-조선남녀상열지사]의 의상 비교 분석연구

김현정(Kim Hyun-Jung),양취경(Yang Chieu-Kyung) 한국복식학회 2005 服飾 Vol.55 No.4

In this thesis, I tried to compare and analyze the characteristics of the costume worn by leading figures of French movie 'Dangerous Liaison' and Korean movie 'The Scandal'. I compared the costumes they wear with the costumes of 18th century Fran[e and also tried to analyze how the costumes represent the psychological status of the persons in the movie. Since these two movies are based on the same original novel, the major figure's characters, socio-economic status and the situations they faced are similar but the physical background are very different, that is Fran[e and Korea. The analysis of the costume worn by similar characters in the two movies show differences due to the intention of tile producer's. The costumes used in Scandal shows much more use of varied colors to represent the characters of the major roles while Dangerous Liaison more faithfully follows the evidences of the costume used in the period in France. As seen from the result of this analysis, we can deduce that the costumes used in the movie not only have the simple role of clothes but also itforms the image of the figure in the movie representing the social and economic status of the person who wears them. Because of these demands, the designer should posses profound knowledge of history of the costumes of the period as well as the creativity to harmonize them with the atmosphere that the movie intend to appeal.

현대(現代) 건축양식(建築樣式)과 복식(服飾)의 미의식(美意識) 비교연구(比較硏究) -형태주의(形態主義)(Formalism)와 브루탈리즘(Brutalism)을 중심(中心)으로-

조경희 ( Kyoung Hee Cho ),양취경 ( Chieu Kyung Yang ) 한국패션비즈니스학회 1997 패션 비즈니스 Vol.1 No.4

현대패션의 로맨틱 이미지에 관한 연구

김영현(Young Hyun Kim),양취경(Chieu Kyung Yang) 한국복식학회 2005 服飾 Vol.55 No.1

The modern society which is going through the big turbulence of civilization experiences the lost of humanity and the phenomenon that the standard of our thoughts, like those for good and evil, truth and false is not clear anymore as the technology is being improved. This makes us miss the past when everything is simple and the standards are very clear and being attracted by the metaphorical culture symbolizing something from the past, like memories of youth, fantasies, fairy tales or myths and we are now having a great interest in the joy of life. and the affluent life. Influenced by this kind of tendency in modern society, the minimalism, which had the great influence in the nineties, went out of fashion and at last the romantic susceptibility seems to be the trend forming the major mood of the late 20th century - the early 21st century. This study focus is: (1) the theoretical aspects of romantic images such as the concept, the historical tendency and the character are considered. (2) the variety and multiplicity of the romantic images is discussed after the romantic image is classified into four types of retro character, natural character, ethnic character, erotic character according to major trends in our modern. The purpose of this study is to understand the romantic images in modern fashion, by analyzing the fashion trends together with the various features of romantic images.

현대 패션 디자인에 표현된 느리게 살기 경향 연구

양취경,김미경 誠信女子大學校 生活文化硏究所 2004 生活文化硏究 Vol.18 No.-

There is a tendency to be slow as an alternative life style in the modern society in which the fastness is being valued above everything else. 'Be slow movement' is revealed in our everyday life which include food, clothing, housing. education, politics, etc. The study has the aim of analyzing 'be slow movement' which is expressed in the formative feature of contemporary fashion. The ideas, contained in the movement, was analyzed as follows. The sublation of fastness first, the refusal of being unify, giving a great value to handmade object, the refusal of blind faith about technology, environment friendly, the pursuit of natural texture, the respect of regional tradition, the precautions against material civilization and hedonism and the interests on oriental philosophy. The results of this study can be summarized as follows. First, in the ecology style fashion, the 'be slow movement' was founded as a silhouette and color of nature or ecological print. That represents the pursuit of natural texture, which is the one of the maintenance of the 'be slow movement'. The style which avoid expansion or contraction of human body shows returning to nature and the cozy texture and structure show relaxation and healing with nature. In addition, using ecru color and natural fiber are related to environment friendly and the refusal of blind faith about technology. Secondly, the primitivism style fashion emphasize roughness and crudeness of nature, which support environment friendly and the pursuit of natural texture of the 'be slow movement'. Fur and leather put around or tied to the body express uncivilized and unprocessed natural beauty, which shows the refusal of blind faith about technology. The accessaries made of wood, ivory, born or feather were related to the 'be slow movement' with giving a great value to handmade object. Thirdly, the ethnic and folklore style fashion represent 'be slow movement' which emphasize the respect of regional tradition with adapting traditional pattern or style. Embroidery, hand weaving, hand knitting and traditional dying are using as ornaments or detail, which represents the respect of regional tradition and the sublation of fastness first. Fourthly, the Zen style fashion have not focused on exotic taste about orient, but focused on the spiritual world of orient. That represent the 'be slow movement' which emphasizes oriental mind as an alternative paradigm. The graceful and temperance feature of the Zen style fashion expresses the precautions against material civilization and hedonism. And fifthly, in the vintage style fashion, wearing out dated clothing and accessary shows the sublation of fastness first. In addition, vintage style could be interpreted as expressing one's individuality. That represents the refusal of being unify The maintenance which is contained in the movement was analyzed as the sublation of fastness first, the refusal of being unify, giving a great value to handmade object, the refusal blind faith about technology, environment friendly, the pursuit of natural texture, the respect of regional tradition, the precautions against material civilization and hedonism and interests on oriental philosophy. According the results above, factors of the 'be slow movement' have been founded in the comtemporary fashion.

건축작품을 응용한 구두, 핸드백 디자인 연구 : 라파엘 비뇰리(Rafael Vin`oly)의 건축작품을 중심으로 Focusing on Works of Rafael Vin`oly

양취경,김진형 誠信女子大學校 生活文化硏究所 2003 生活文化硏究 Vol.17 No.-

Fashion and architecture are the practical figurative arts of people that have been reflecting the spiritual and phenomenal aspects from the past to modern times, which are the expressions of artistic recognition. The elements of architecture that have limitless possibilities for figurative characteristics provide artists with numerous motives and may well provoke infinite inspiration in the forms and details as the source of ideas. Also, in modern fashion that is represented by individuality and diversity, the formative elements of architecture may act as a stimulating elements that may bring change and accent. Cosequently, in this study, we tried to give shape to the figurative/symbolic aspects of architeture through images and then to use them as the inspirational motive for our works. The objective of our study lies in expanding the expressive range of design though shoes and handbag production that utilizes architectural works. Our study considered the origin, history and types of shoes and handbags for model production and looked through the figurative aspects of architecture shown in fashion from the past until modern times. To consider the architectural arts of Rafael Vin~oly, which is the objective of our ideas in our study, we analyzed his cultural background and the figurative characteristics of his architectural works by their shapes, decorative elements, textile materials, and colors. Based on such a theoretical background, we restructured the figurative image of architecture of 16 model works and then we designed and produced them. In the course of design, to express the images of architecture, we used expressional methods such as padding, stitching, tucks, patchwork, etc. and pursued decorative effects. As for materials, we used bovine leather, sheepskin, snakeskin, the skins of unborn calves, and printed leather. We also used Crystal Hot Fix, and Rhine Stone to design the products that focused on their utility. The following are our conclusions reached through design and production of shoes and handbags based of Rafael Vin~oly's architectural works as our inspiration. First, architecture as a practical formative art consisted of decorative shape elements, materials, and colors in their formative aspects. Further, the architecture expressed artistic/aesthetic concepts in their content. It is an area of limitless artistic inspiration. Second, the architectural works of Rafael vin~oly focused on connectivity. We, therefore, drew our suitable architectural work in concern for the given situation and "realization of publicity". They have a high-degree of detailed expression through the use of exaggerated materials and combined wonderful structural creativity, thus creating excellent figurative beauty. Third, by using the figurative elements of architecture as the basic "material" in designing shoes and handbags, we found that the shapes, decorative details and the figurative aspects of the architecture could be the inspiration for design production. Fourth, the expressional methods such as padding, stitching, tucks, and patchwork used in model work production were quite suitable for expressing the figurative images. The materials and decorations such as bovine leather, sheepskin, snakeskin, the skins of unborn calves, and printed leather and, Crystal Hot Fix and Rhine Stone clearly brought out the formative images in shoes and handbags. Thus, we concluded that the expression of the formative elements of architecture will improve practicality and artistic expression and wil enable design development to transcend the existing uniformity, thus helping to create new active ideas.