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This study examines the costume artifacts discovered in the burial site of Choi Kyung Sun(1561~1622), which was moved from Gangwon in Gangrung Province. About 30 artifacts, including costumes, were recovered from Choi Kyung Sun's grave. The collection of men's coats discovered in the grave consisted of a Dallyeong (Official's robe), Jing-nyeong(Man's coat), Jungchimak(Man's coat), Cheolrik(Man's coat), Chang-ui(Man's coat), Gwang-su-ju-ui(Man's coat), and Do-po(Man's coat). Han-sam(Undershirts), Jeo-go-ri(Jacket), and trousers were also recovered, along with several items made of textiles, such as the cloth used to shroud and wrap the body. The costume artifacts recovered from Choi Kyung Sun's grave have several characteristics that distinguish them from other early 17th-century costume artifacts. Firstly, the body had a hairband made from horsehair. Secondly, the men's trousers were of the type worn before the Japanese Invasion(1592~1597). Thirdly, the style of the coats' sleeves, when compared with artifacts from other regions, was from an earlier era. Through these costume artifacts, it can be inferred that people who lived in the Gangwon Province, which was far away from Seoul, continuously wore outfits from before the Japanese Invasion, and trends spread slowly.
This study examines the costumes excavated from Joseon Dynasty tombs as well as dharani, beon, beads, which are presumed as Buddhist rosary, that were collected from coffins and ancestral rites tools. The consideration aims to explore until when the influence of Buddhism led on the tradition of Joseon mourning and funeral. As of 2018, among the 200 or more cases reported of excavated costumes in the Joseon Dynasty, there were 10 cases that reported collection of artifacts that are related to Buddhism, such as beon, dharani, Buddhist rosary. The distribution of the regions where dharani, beon, and Buddhist rosary were collected includes 5 locations in Gyeonggi/Incheon (Incheon, Namyangju, Paju, Yangpyeong, Seongnam), 2 locations in Chungbuk (Eumseong, Goesan), 1 location in Chungnam (Cheongyang), 1 location in Jeonbuk (Buan), and 1 location in Gyeongnam (Ulsan). This leads to the presumption that Buddhism influenced the early Joseon Dynasty period across regions. Looking at the tombs by sex, male tombs were 2, and female tombs were 8, from which artifacts related to Buddhism were collected. This makes it presumable to infer that more females were friendly to Buddhism in early Joseon period. The period in which the tombs from which Buddhism related artifacts were collected were created ranges from mid 15<SUP>th</SUP> century to late 17<SUP>th</SUP> century. The period during which the influence of Buddhism is seen from the excavated tombs is mostly early Joseon, and it disappeared in the 17<SUP>th</SUP> century. In the 17th century, the dissemination of decorum manuals of Confucianism prevailed after wars such as Japanese Invasion of Korea and Byeongjahoran had ended.
This study is regarding on the shroud of Jeonjoo Lee (Inpyoung clan`s lady) excavated from the Andong Gwon`s grave, who had passed away at 1722. Through this research, we understood the way of fetal ceremony by 18 centuries` royal family, and the costume style in those days. The style and size of shrouds were likely similar with ordinary dress. For the upper dress, Lady Andong Gwon wore a piece of undershirt (sosam), 3 layed jacket(Joggoli), an upper jacket (dangui) with patched badge as well as a gold brocade formal dress(wonsam). And for the lower dress, 2 layed underpants(dansokot) and 2 layed long skirts were worn. Especially, prototype of the waist band for shroud(gowdo) and a kind of headgear(gokdoli) was found in this study along with the headdress for woman`s shroud(yomo) and the shoes for woman`s shroud(chahwea). In this study, understanding the costume of upper class at 18 centuries during Chosun Dynasty.
The origin and developing process of Highland Dress as a Scottish national dress has been discussed in this study. Parameters affecting transformation process of Highland Dress from regional to national dress over the modernization period during 19 C was analyzed and compared by sociological aspect. Anthony Giddenss social change was applied and divided into three main factors such as political , economic and cultural analysis. The basic requirement of the theory of social change is visual recognization of any cultural changes. Highland Dress as a Scottish national dress has established during modernization in Europe within short period(18C -early 20C) and the Highland tartan as a military dress was transformed to be a civilian dress during 19-20 C. It shows social changes affecting on costume pattern and eventually costume in particular time could be an indicator of social changed. Throughout the study of the functional role of costume in Scotland is able to clarify the understanding of acculturation phenomenon through cultural, political and economic changes.
This study focus on the history of Scottish kilt, and the application of kilt designed by Vivienne Westwood, 1993 F/W. Up to late the 16 Century, saffron shirt was worn among Highland men and belted plaid become common dress after the 17 Century. The early the 18 Century belted plaid have developed as a kilt separated to a upper and a lower skirt style. However, Government banned wearing tartan and kilt after Culloden battle (1745) as Highland Dress(tartan, kilt, belted plaid etc.) was the symbol of rebellion. This legislation by Hanoverian authority continued for 35 years. Although most of tartan was disappeared during those period, it has become popular among European upper class after George Ⅳ`s visiting Scotland in 1822, Highland Dress become Scottish national dress after Industrial revolution. Currently Vivienne Westwood`s 93 F/W using tartan and kilt and its accessaries, those items were successfully transformed modern ladies dress.