당대(唐代) 예술(藝術)이 반영(反映)된 현대(現代)패션에 관(關)한 연구(硏究) -1998년(年)부터 2000년(年) Collection을 중심(中心)으로-

간호섭 ( Ho Sup Kan ),서윤희 ( Yun Hee Suh ) 한국패션비즈니스학회 2000 패션 비즈니스 Vol.4 No.4

The purpose of this thesis is to suggest the new orientalism fashion through the comprehensive approach to analyze the art of the Tang dynasty, China. Tang dynasty has high culture, economy, polity and art. Also the character of Tang`s culture is very international. Therefore that point is coincide with fusion culture in the early 2000`s. As a method of accomplishing this research, the documents and fashion magazines related to the art and fashion were examined. Through analyzing the art in the Tang`s related to fusion culture, reach a conclusion that the modern fashion has four characters. 1. The cause of high culture and economy, the trend of fashion was decorative 2. The cause of realism, the trend of fashion were modern and simple. 3. The cause of rhythmical line, the trend of fashion had natural drape. 4. The cause of globalism, the trend of fashion mixed east with west This research keep going for showing new orientalism and coinciding with 21th century`s trend

모노크롬 회화를 응용한 현대 패션 디자인 연구

간호섭(Ho Sup Kan),조은주(Eun Joo Jho) 한국복식학회 2006 服飾 Vol.56 No.5

Drag Queen 복식(服飾)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究)

간호섭 ( Ho Sup Kan ) 한국패션비즈니스학회 2000 패션 비즈니스 Vol.4 No.2

The purpose of this study is considering about drag queen`s costume in the point of view of anthropology and psychoanalysis. The contents are the meaning of drag queen by theoretical research and the characteristics of drag queen`s costume. The results of characteristics of drag queen`s costume are summerized as following. 1. Sexual originality is related with homosexuality. Costume express character of gay not as a transsexual or cross-dresser. 2. Imitation is related with identification of drag queen and famous star like actress, pop singer and historical heroine. 3. Amusement is related with drag queen`s life style. There are two kinds of character in amusement. One is humour. Another is an exaggeration. 4. Commercialism is related with mass-media culture. Drag queen`s costume have an influence with movie, advertisement and modern fashion.

현대 패션에 나타난 러시아 구성주의의 조형성에 관한 연구

손호영(Ho Young Sohn),간호섭(Ho Sup Kan) 한국복식학회 2011 服飾 Vol.61 No.10

Constructivism is an avant-garde movement that began in 20th-century Russia, which rapidly turned into an industrial society. This was one of the most experimental art movements, that wanted to be at the center of social and political-ideological change as it pursued a unique style, which portrayed the true essence of art and humanity. Russian constructivism greatly influenced modern fashion and suggested a new artistic standard. First, the artistic elements of Russian constructivism include photo montages, geometrical structures, color abstraction, and an asymmetrical order, through which the ideals of the Russian Revolution were substantiated, idealized, and materialized into an artistic form. Second, the different forms of Russian constructivism have various artistic characteristics such as popularity, spatiality, structuralism, decorativeness, and mobility, which were then expressed in modern fashion elaborated below. This study intends to reconstruct the meaning of Russian formalism and reflect it on fashion; thereby reconsidering the characteristics and the meaning of Russian constructivism in the context of today`s fashion. This will broaden the meaning of constructivism and suggest a new direction for modern fashion.

조선시대 연화문(蓮花紋)을 모티브로 한 현대패션디자인 연구

조예석 ( Ye Seok Cho ),간호섭 ( Ho Sup Kan ) 한국패션비즈니스학회 2010 패션 비즈니스 Vol.14 No.1

As our world is becoming more and more globalized, nations tend to turn their interests towards their unique legacy and traditional culture. This research is intended to re-illuminate the Korean beauty through the Lotus Pattern, a traditional factor, from the Chosun Dynasty, and at the same time, analyze how its peculiar representation and figural elements can be reflected in modern fashion designs. The results will be an essential factor in creating exclusive and original designs. Research method was theoretical research from documents and to refer to positive data on preserved relics, and research contents consists of analysis on the use of lotus patterns in artworks that were exhibited during 2000 to 2008 by Korean and foreign artists. Results showed that lotus patterns that were used during the Chosun Dynasty are categorized by shape, composition form, and structural form. Applying these results, a total of 8 works were designed and created.

2002 한·일 국민교류년 기념 한국과 일본의 신세대의 복식문화에 대한 연구

백샘이(Saem Yee Baek),간호섭(Ho Sup Kan) 한국복식학회 2003 服飾 Vol.53 No.3

The purpose of this research is to examine and contrast the cultural characteristics of the street fashion in new generations of Korea and Japan. We also intended to help clothing companies understand the current trend in this new generation. As the method for street fashion analysis, various literature, internet information and new media materials were utilized. Key observations obtained are as following; First, they pursue a complex image. New generations seem to admix images from different areas to create a synthetic image, rather than adopting a single image; Second, practicality is an important factor. They pursue a sense of their own unique trend; Third, distinction. The difference in society values between Koreans and Japanese is incorporated. The Korean new generation considers the traditional moral principles as important social values. In contrast the Japanese new generation is greatly influenced by the open sexuality culture; Fourth, public ownership and sharing of the culture. There is gradual deviation from a dominating unidirectional influence from one country on another. Now the two countries are influencing each other; Fifth, sense. There are numerous fashion items and generalized total coordination. New generations express more active and creative fashion sense in those fashion items.

동복아시아지역의 전통문양을 응용한 패션디자인 연구

김지현(Ji Hyun Kim),간호섭(Ho Sup Kan) 한국복식학회 2009 服飾 Vol.59 No.9

현대 패션에 나타난 신디셔먼(Cindy Sherman) 패러디의 미적 특성 연구

박희정(Hee Jeong Park),간호섭(Ho Sup Kan) 한국복식학회 2012 服飾 Vol.62 No.2

Based on the fact that a parody is widely used as one of main methods of creating art, this study focuses on the parodic techniques used by one of the most famous contemporary artists, Cindy Sherman. Her unique techniques, which are shown through parody, provide different aesthetical values to contemporary fashion designs. The purpose of this study is to find out whether or not contemporary fashion designs that use parodies can be presented as creative fashion designs. The study was carried out by analyzing data retrieved from various literatures, dissertations, magazines and the Internet. The period between the late 1990s and 2010 is the time when parodies were widely introduced, this study presents tables, pictures and photographs based on data collected from that period. The result of this study suggests that there are mainly four expressive techniques used to create Cindy Sherman`s parodies: female viewed from a male`s perspective, pornography and sexual satire, narrative and realistic reproductions, and foreignness and harmony in conflict. This study discovered that based on these four expressive techniques, contemporary fashion can produce the following four results according to their production styles, silhouettes, materials, and colors: the beauty of the retro pinup girl style, the beauty of eroticism and sexual satire, the beauty of history through reinterpretation of the past, and the beauty of compromise through conflict. As described above, this study attempts to seek how techniques of parodies give different aesthetical values whether or not they can become creative fashion design techniques by listing Cindy Sherman`s unique expressive techniques in her parodies in relation to contemporary fashion designs.

영화 "시카고"의 의상(衣裳)에 나타난 팜므 파탈 이미지 연구(硏究)

김지영 ( Ji Young Kim ),간호섭 ( Ho Sup Kan ) 한국패션비즈니스학회 2004 패션 비즈니스 Vol.8 No.1

Up to now, image of femme fatale has undergone constant transformation to be inherited and developed through various genres of movies. With few exceptions such cases have represented sensuality of women by costumes with the most distinctive and exaggerated sexuality. Temptresses in movies are mostly drawn as extravagant and gorgeous one or a gloomy and dreary woman. Such an image is reinforced with make-up, hair style, accessories, attitude and manner of talking. The movie ``Chicago`` is a musical film that crosses the boundaries of reality and fantasy with dancing and singing. Its lighting, stage setting, powerful and sexy dancing augmented already exaggerated and sensual costumes. Following is the analysis of costumes for two heroines as images of femme fatale. Strong contrast of color among black, red and blue on see-through & stickingly tight body suit signifies liberal mind and arrogant charisma of Velma. The contrast, haughty gestures, cropped black hair and thick makeups represent sex appeal, aggressive image, and fearlessly determined character of femme fatale. Roxie wears decent dresses in front of public and gorgeous stage costume in fantasy to convey two images of bad girl and angel. Her body suit, showing off lustering materials and dazzling bead decoration, is rather loose but still displays her bodyline to emphasize sexiness for representation of desire in fantasy. Chastity and innocence are implied with the decency of dresses in reality. They were specially chosen to draw public sympathy and indicate cunning disguise of Roxy who desperately wants to realize her desire. These dauntless costumes, which sufficiently express inside aspirations of Velma and Roxie later denote open and realistic social yearning rather than fatal desire hidden behind sensual beauty. It doesn`t exist as imperfect, unrealistic and socially disdainful ambition as the image of femme fatale of paintings and movies did before in history. Femme fatale is expressed with deep cleavage, silk dresses that explicitly display bodyline, sexiness of mesh stockings with garter belts. All of these won`t be utilized as a negative tool to seduce and destroy someone anymore but rather, they should represent rightful and fair nature of humans such as men`s curiosity who secretly steal a look at them or female sexuality that women spontaneously want to show off.

누드 건축 양식을 응용한 패션 디자인 연구

이혜라(Hye Ra Rhee),간호섭(Ho Sup Kan) 한국복식학회 2012 服飾 Vol.62 No.3

For a long time, architecture has functioned as something that is inevitable for humans, a necessity that provides housing settings and living spaces for human lives. In the creation of art, architecture is a genre that has a field of infinite possibilities of endless inspirations of the present and the future with its unimaginable various styles and functions. This study aims at analyzing the figurative formation and characteristic expression style of nude architecture with modern fashion design, reinterpreting it by a modern edge, and expressing it into an originative costume work. Furthermore, the purpose of this study is to provide a new motive for the potential of continuous development of modern fashion in the future through an endless study on artistic architecture that includes nude architecture and an originative expression style that will prepare a momentum that indicates the direction into a new line of fashion.