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      • KCI등재

        거동 불편 노인에 대한 기능성 의복 연구 : 서울, 경인 지역 노인 전문 요양 시설을 중심으로 Nursing Facilities for the Elderly in Seoul and Kyoungin Area

        洪那英 服飾文化學會 1999 服飾文化硏究 Vol.7 No.2

        This study aimed to provide basic data for designing adaptive dresses for the disabled elderly. The procedure of this stydy consisted of 3 parts ; 1. the survey of 205 nursing-care providers who take care of the disabled elderly, 2. the market survey of dadptive dresses for the disabled elderly, 3. wearing-tests of those adaptive which are in the market. The results are as follows; 1. The most popular style for the disabled elderly in nursing facilities was non-collar, regular pajamas. And the most favorite design was a pajama's style which has no collar but has a round neckline, front opening and 7/10 length shirt's sleeves, with pants of an elastic band waist. And the most desirable fabric was a physiologically comfortable one. 2. The system of adaptive dress sizes for the Korean elderly consisted of 85, 95, 105㎝, while that for the Japanese elderly was divided into F/S/M/L/LL according to gender. 3. In the case of a pajama's style, it is necessary for the elderly women in the nursing facilities to have a more choice in smaller sizes, while the elderly men in the facilities need bigger sizes for their jump suits. When we tested the adaptive dresses for the elderly in the nursing facilities, in the case of a pajama's style, it was most difficult for us to pull pants over around the buttocks. In the case of jump suits, it was most difficult for us to dress and undress the adaptive dresses around the chest.

      • 조선 후기 사대부의 일상복식

        홍나영,김지연 이화여자대학교 생활환경대학 인간생활환경연구소 2005 인간생활환경연구소 논집 Vol.- No.3

        The purpose of this study is to research the everyday costumes of the upper class in the late Joseon period. The 18th century was the main period that the tradition of the Korean costumes was established. The results of the study were as the following. First, men's coats, which were called po, had many varieties, such as dopo, changui and joongchimak. Hats were also developed along with coats. Men wore gat when they went outside, and wore tanggeon, jeongiagwan, chungieonggwan, or dongpagwan when they were at home. Second, women's clothes were a combination of a short and tight jacket called jeogori, and a logn, voluminous skirt called chima. Women tended to have their hairstyles done with wigs. Also, they had to werar veils to cover their faces due to the influences of Confucianism. During the early times of the Joseon Dynasty, women used to werar jang-ot as a coat. However, curing the late times of the Joseon Dynasty, jang-ot changed as a type of a veil. During that time, the custom of covering the women's heds with a veil was more emphasized than the early Joseon period. Third, th war between Korea and Japan(Imjinwaeran, 1952~1598) brought many changes in the styles of the Korean costumes. Due to the changes of social statuses and of the society, some farmers or merchants tried to initate costumes of the upper class. They wore the dress items of the upper class, or used high quality silk for their clothing. As a result, the fashion of the upper class began to affect the lower class, and was simultaneously influenced by the style of the lower class. The fashion of the 18th century emphasized on showing the tight upper bodylines. Also, people began to expose parts of their underwear through the slits of their clothing.

      • KCI등재

        20세기 한국 혼례(폐백) 예복 변천에 관한 고찰

        홍나영 한국의류학회 2000 한국의류학회지 Vol.24 No.4

        This study aims to investigate the changes in the Wedding costume for Paebak(Hyunkugorye) in Westernizing Korean society of the twentieth century. For this study, I analyzed the related literature for the first half of the twentieth century due to the lack of relevant photographs, while I used the method of content analysis of 116 photographs for the second half of the twentieth century. It is obvious that bridegroom and bride wore the same clothes for Hyunkugorye and the formal wedding ceremony in the early twentieth century. According to the analysis of photographs, wonsam was rather more widely used than hwalot as the bride's wedding costume in the late twentieth century. But there were many changes starting from the early 1970s. The changes were deviated from the traditional style and became more decorative and somewhat crude: that is, people began to embroider wonsam and the piping was added to the collar of danryung. All these changes resulted from the pursuit of commercial interests with the misunderstanding of and the indifference to traditional beauty, while Korean society had experienced the Japanese rule of Korea, the Korean War and the industrialization during the 1960s and 1970s. Therefore, to establish appropriate wedding culture and costume in Korea, it is important to educate people who get involved in wedding business for traditional wedding culture and clothes, because nowadays most of bridegrooms and brides borrow ceremonial costume for Hyunkugorye.

      • KCI등재

        조선후기 복식과 임원경제지

        홍나영 진단학회 2009 진단학보 Vol.- No.108

        임원경제지는 조선후기 실학자 풍석 서유구(1764~1845)가 지은 책이다. 복식에 관련된 내용은 섬용지 안의 복식지구, 관즐지구, 기거지구 부분에, 섬유, 직물, 염색 등에 대한 내용은 전공지(권28∼32)에 있다. 향례지(권88∼90)에는 의례와 관련된 복식명칭만이 언급된다. 이 글에서는 전공지와 섬용지에 기록된 복식에 대해 살펴보고자 한다. 『임원경제지』는 의생활에 대한 방대한 자료를 담고 있음에도 불구하고 지금까지 염색을 제외한 분야에서는 연구가 활발한 편이 아니었다. 복식사 연구가 형태 변화를 중심으로 이루어진 탓도 있겠지만 번역의 어려움으로 자료에의 접근이 용이하지 못했던 탓도 있을 것이다. 복식이란 옷과 장신구를 포함하는 것으로 의생활 전반에 대한 내용이 모두 연구의 대상이 된다. 이에 임원경제지 안에서 한 항목에 수록되지 않았더라도, 모자, 옷, 장신구, 화장, 소재, 관리, 보관 등의 내용을 오늘날의 분류기준에 맞추어 정리, 고찰하였다. 『임원경제지』에서 다루고 있는 복식에 관련된 내용은 다양하다. 섬유의 생산, 방적, 직조, 정련, 염색에 이르기까지, 또 장신구의 재료가 되는 금속, 옥, 보패류의 생산에 대한 내용이 수록되어 있다. 또 옷과 장신구의 종류와 특징, 그 기원과 착용 현황, 품질, 가격, 관리 등에 대해 국내외의 수많은 저서를 인용하고, 때로는 여기에 자신의 견해를 덧붙여 기록하고 있다. 조선후기의 실학자 대부분은 유학자의 입장에서, 당시의 복식이나 풍속의 문제점을 지적하고 이를 유교적 가치에 맞게 개혁하고자 하는 의도로, 혹은 당시 유행하던 박물학적이고 고증학적인 연구방법에 의해 복식을 고찰하였다. 하지만 서유구는 재야의 선비가 생활하는데 필요한 항목만을 뽑아 문헌을 연구하고, 국내의 실정을 조사하여 기록한 점에서 다른 저술들과 비교된다. 즉 의생활 전반을 다루되 수록한 복식의 품목은 당시 사람들이 활용하면 좋을만한 것을 중심으로 선별하였다. 이에 비견할 만한 책으로 빙허각 이씨의 『규합총서』가 있다. 이 책은 『임원경제지』와 중복되는 항목이 있지만, 관복이나 일상복 제작을 위한 치수와 봉제법을 기록한 것이 다른 점이다. 『임원경제지』의 저술이 선비가 임원 경영을 통해 경세라는 이상을 펼치는데 있었으므로, 규방의 여인들이 언제든 찾아보고 참고할 수 있는 책으로 만들어진 『규합총서』와는 항목을 선정하고 기록하는 태도에 있어서 조선시대 남녀의 역할 만큼이나 차이가 있다. 『임원경제지』에는 의생활의 자급자족을 위해 가정에서 알고 있어야 정도를 넘어서는 일상복식의 생산과 소비, 관리를 위한 내용이 총망라되어 있다. 공장인이 새로운 혹은 보다 나은 물건을 만들기 위해 알고 있으면 좋을만한 내용도 싣고 있는 것이 주요한 특징이다. 이러한 지식을 활용하게 함으로써 백성들의 삶을 윤택하게 하고자 함이 서유구의 목적이었을 것이다. 하지만 가격과 품질, 생산지 위주로 수록하였을 뿐 생산체제나 유통 등에 대한 내용은 찾아보기 어렵다. 이는 서유구가 이상으로 한 사회가 농업을 기반으로 한 자급자족의 삶을 근간으로 하고 있기 때문이라고 본다. 또 다른 특징은 가죽, 털, 모직 등을 소재로 한 물품과 그 관리법에 대한 내용의 비중이 높다는 것이다. 가죽과 모직의 장점을 잘 알고 생활해 왔던 서유구가 이러한 소재를 소개해 백성들이 쾌적한 의생활을 영위하게 하고자 하는 ... Imwongyeongjeji (林園經濟志) is a book written by Seo Yugu(徐有榘,1764-1845), a Silhak (實學) scholar of the later Joseon Dynasty(朝鮮後期). Contents related to clothing are located in Boksikjigu(服飾之具), Gwanjuljigu(盥櫛之具), Gigerjigu(起居之具) parts of Seomyongji(贍用志) and Jeongongji(展功志) contains information about textiles, fabrics, and dyeing. Hyangleji(鄕禮志) only mentions names of clothing used in ceremonies. This article will inspect closely on textiles recorded in Seomyongji and Jeongongj. Although Imwongyeongjeji contains a vast amount of information on clothing, there has been no active research done except for the area of dyeing. This may be not only because the study of the history of costume has concentrated on the changes of form, but also because the data are not easily available due to difficulties in translation. I reorganized the contents about hats, clothes, ornaments, cosmetics, fabrics, management, and storing according to today's standards, even if they are not under the same category in Imwongyeongjeji. Imwongyeongjeji dealt with a wide area of information on clothing. Not only spinning, weaving, refining, and dyeing of textiles but also the processing of metal, jade, and gemstone that were materials of ornaments, were listed. Also numerous foreign and domestic books were quoted for kinds of clothing and ornaments as well as their characteristics, origin, usage, quality, price and management. He also occasionally added his own perspective in the recording. The majority of Silhak scholars in the late Joseon Dynasty studied clothing with the encyclopedic method, which was a trend at the time, based on the Confucian perspective. Their intention was to point out the problems of clothing and customs, and to reform them according to virtues of Confucianism. However, Seo Yugu differed from others by extracting parts of books that were needed for Confucian scholars to use in daily life and recorded the domestic realities after investigating them. In other words, he dealt with clothing overall, but only recorded selected clothing that seemed good for people to use in daily life. There is a book, called Gyuhapchongseo(閨閤叢書) written by Bingheogak Mrs. Lee(憑虛閣李氏), which can be comparable to Imwongyeongjeji. This book has several categories overlapping with Imwongyeongjeji, but is different in the way that it recorded the size and methods of making official's uniform and everyday garments. Imwongyeongjeji was intended for Confucian scholars to fulfill their idea of governing state affairs through the management of rural life, whereas Gyuhapchongseo was created for ladies to look up and use as a reference at any time. As a result, the selection of categories and author's attitudes toward organizing the books differed as much as the social roles of men and women in the Joseon Dynasty. Imwongyeongjeji not only records information a household needs for self-sufficiency of clothing but contains information on the production, consumption, and caring of everyday clothes. It also shows how a manufacturer could make a new or better product as well. It would have been Seo‘s intention to allow the people to use the knowledge and live a better life. It only states information about price, quality and the place of production. However, it is difficult to find contents about the production mechanism and the distribution network. This may be because Seo’s idealistic society was a self-sustaining one based on agriculture. Another characteristic of the book is that it has devoted many a page for contents about wool and leather items and their storage. He himself had known the benefits of leather and wool, it seemed that he wished to introduce these materials so that the people could live a decent life. Introducing the storage skill of gemstone and the method of making forgeries meant more than knowing how to distinguish forgeries. Indeed, it seems that Seo int...

      • KCI등재
      • KCI등재

        조선후기 甘露幀畵 下段畵를 통해서 본 藝人복식 연구 (제1보)-사당패 남자복식을 중심으로-

        홍나영,민보라 한국의류학회 2006 한국의류학회지 Vol.30 No.1

        This study is focused on the man's costumes of Sadangpae(the troupe of performers) shown in Gamrotaenghwa (甘露幀畵) during the late Chosun dynasty. Originally Gamrotaenghwa was used as a painting for a Buddhist praying ceremony, Young-ga-cheon-do-je(靈歌天度齎). It shows us the lives of the commoners in those days. Gamrotaenghwa reflects the changes of costume style in the late Chosun period. The early styles of po(袍, coat) for male performers in the 17th century were changeui( 衣) and dopo(道袍), which had the front panels(seop) overlapped deeply and sleeves that got wider as time passed. After the 18th century, Male performers wore a simpler coat such as sochangeui(小 衣), which had narrow sleeves and long slits on the both sides. Especially the coats of acrobats were fastened on the center front with buttons. Heuklip(黑笠: black hat), somoja(小帽子: small cap) and jeonlip(戰笠: wool hat) were used as hats for the male performers. Originally, heuklip was the hat that represented the noble status: yangban(兩班). However, it was popularized among the commoners in the late Chosun period. As time passed on, the heuklip became more popular and its shape also changed. Somoja and jeonlip were shown throughout the entire Gamrotaenghwa. Unlike heuklip, those were common hats for Sadangpae. The costumes of entertainers shown in Gamrotaenghwa were very similar to those of the commoners. However, it seems that there were some differences of the costumes depending onthe roles they performed.

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