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연구논문 : 예술적 패러다임 전환기에 나타난 서양 여성 복식의 미적 특성과 현대적 표현
전여선 ( Yuh Sun Jun ),김영삼 ( Young Sam Kim ) 한국의류산업학회 2014 한국의류산업학회지 Vol.16 No.6
This study investigated the relationship between inner characteristics manifested through the characteristics of artistic styles and formativeness manifested through external expressions of architectural styles in the early Medieval Period and early Renaissance Period. The method applied to this study is as follows. First, a historical document research was conducted centering on academic theses, related books, and academic databases; in addition, a case study identified the aesthetic characteristics of women``s clothes. The conclusion of this study is as follows. First, the following is the analysis of the relationship between the artistic mode and architectural formativeness in the early Medieval Period and early Renaissance Period that represent a turning point in artistic paradigms. Second, the inner characteristics and eclecticism of the artistic mode literally appear in the formativeness of architectural style in the early Medieval Period, and the eclecticism in the architectural style appears to be expressed through a combination with new styles based on the application of the retro mode such as the eclectic adoption of cultural styles of various regions based on the tradition and technology of ancient Rome. Third, the trend of the aesthetic characteristics commonly appear in the modern style of expression related to the aesthetic characteristics of western women``s clothes in the early Medieval Period; in addition, the early Renaissance Period was analyzed as decorativeness and respectively manipulability.
전여선(Yuh Sun Jun),김장현(Jang Hyeon Kim),김영삼(Young Sam Kim) 한국복식학회 2013 服飾 Vol.63 No.6
The purpose of this study is to examine the trend of plural eclecticism in costumes appearing on the stages of the world`s top 4 musicals based on the general researches and establishments made of the mentioned concept. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, the aspects of eclectics appearing in overall pieces can be defined as situational eclecticism. It can be attributed to the dramatic elements contrasted in the storyline of the musical and occurs in mixture with various situations. Showing combinations of costumes from varying situations at once in the same stage makes the audience feel the dynamic elements of the piece. Second, the aspect of temporal eclecticism, which can be seen in the ``Phantom of the Opera`` regarding mixture of crinoline style and art nouveau style, resulted from the partial mixture of classical elements for maximizing visual beauty in the historical pieces. Third, the aspect of spatial eclecticism can be observed in the musical ``Miss Saigon``, which used costumes that combined multicultural elements by exposing different spaces and cultures such as America and Vietnam. It eclectically expresses the unique cultures and costumes of each country. Fourth, ``Les Miserables`` shows the aspect of situational eclecticism, through its use of mixture of situations in various aspects, and in particular, the male and female costumes that blur the boundaries of life, death, and costume, the mixture of people`s costume and aristocrat`s costume, and the situational elements where the good and evil are contrasted are integrated eclectically to make the story dramatic.
패션콘텐츠 미디어 환경 예측을 위한 해외 SPA 브랜드의 SNS 언어 네트워크 분석
전여선 ( Yuhsun Jun ) 한국의류학회 2019 한국의류학회지 Vol.43 No.3
This study investigated the semantic network based on the focus of the fashion image and SNS text utilized by global SPA brands on the last seven years in terms of the quantity and quality of data generated by the fast-changing fashion trends and fashion content-based media environment. The research method relocated frequency, density and repetitive key words as well as visualized algorithms using the UCINET 6.347 program and the overall classification of the text related to fashion images on social networks used by global SPA brands. The conclusions of the study are as follows. A common aspect of global SPA brands is that by looking at the basis of text extraction on SNS, exposure through image of products is considered important for sales. The following is a discriminatory aspect of global SPA brands. First, ZARA consistently exposes marketing using a variety of professions and nationalities to SNS. Second, UNIQLO's correlation exposes its collaboration promotion to SNS while steadily exposing basic items. Third, in the case of H&M, some discriminatory results were found with other brands in connectivity with each cluster category that showed remarkably independent results.
전여선(Yuh Sun Jun),김영삼(Young Sam Kim) 한국복식학회 2012 服飾 Vol.62 No.6
The style of a dress allows important characterization of an era since they reflect contemporary politics, society, culture and arts. Within a same category, period costumes develop into styles that reflect specific consciousness. The research method and the scope of the study are as follows: the research adopts a historical study method and a comparative research from a microscopic point. The scope includes resistance costumes that proceed with sans-culotte that comprises of the resistance party during the 18th French Revolution (1783-1799), and also a Hippy style which was popularized during the 1960s and 1970s for its anti-war movement. We researched both similarities and differences of design factors reflecting resisting consciousness in costumes that affected costume characteristics related to their socio-cultural background. Sans-culotte and the Hippie style reflect a common denominator in anti-social resisting customs. First, they show common characteristics that combine fashion trends of resistant element and design features. Second, they have common features which are the characteristics of deviation. On the other hand, these two customs also present a discriminative denominator in anti-social resisting customs. In the case of sans-culotte, they tend to symbolize confrontation by dividing into two equal parts: the old and new mode. Sans-culotte confronts the conventional mode and promotes practical costume styles based on justice standpoints. First, hippies pursue an exposition of individual emotions that disclose internal meanings of love and desire. Second, they focus on subjective characteristics and chase after masteries and pleasures by expressing intensity. Third, it extends and develops folk costumes from many countries that reveal ethnic trends. Therefore, this research compares and contrasts different changes in the fashions of revolutionary periods, and aims to recognize the relationship between design and costume characteristics, thus contributing to the predictions of future changes in fashion.
기계 미학적 관점에서 살펴본 3D Printing 패션의 조형적 특성
김영삼,이진아,김장현,전여선 복식문화학회 2015 服飾文化硏究 Vol.23 No.2
This study aims to clarify the aesthetic values between emotion of human and expression of technology in contemporary fashion as it analyzes formative characteristics of related cases in fashion based on principles of 3D Printing technology and the viewpoint of mechanic aesthetics. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, 3D Printing fashion is not only expressed diverse variations by its principles of formative methods, materials and properties, but also changes of silhouette by applying system of designers. Second, general characteristics of 3D Printing fashion is represented by various applications in SLS system, and it can be specifically explained application to a portion of clothing, decorative roles of clothing, complicated pattern making through crossing fabrics using 3D scanner and displaying a certain object changing fashion styles, and so forth. Third, the formative characteristics of 3D Printing fashion from the perspective of mechanic aesthetics is as follows. It can be analyzed as the integration of metaphysical values through compared symbolization of natural feature and technical evolution, partial dynamics and interactive velocity-based, formative combinations for abstract expression using architectural components, cosmos images and substantialized structures through images of organic space interacted human shapes. As the mention above, 3D Printing technology can creative a diverse area of fashion, and express images of new technological fashion through various works with continuous development of techniques.
김장현,전여선,김영삼 복식문화학회 2014 服飾文化硏究 Vol.22 No.1
This study researched the symbolic meaning of the costume colors in the independent film <Bittersweet Life>. The purpose of the study is to shed light on the relation between a film and the clothing color by exploring the symbolic meaning of costume colors as based on place images and as reflected in characters’ internal psychological states and situations. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, the colors primarily presented were neutral shades of black and white or dark, almost-black tones, representing the negative narrative structure and depicting the image of a human being. Second, a series of bright blue shades were presented to reflect the positive narrative structure of a human being returning successfully to reality. Third, the application of color, involving both the psychological aspect as well as the symbolism of color, was effectively delivered to the audience. Fourth, the emphasis on color in the smallest details of costumes was analyzed, and it was found that symbolic color effectively communicated the whole image of transformation as the story progressed, clearly delivered delicate emotional messages, and contained symbolism relating to particular places and situations.
오트 쿠튀르 패션쇼 피날레의 브랜드 이미지 추구에 따른 패션디자이너 의상 연출 유형 및 특성에 관한 연구
김지우 ( Ji U Kim ),전여선 ( Yuh Sun Jun ),김영삼 ( Young Sam Kim ) 한국의류산업학회 2016 한국의류산업학회지 Vol.18 No.5
This study analyzes and classifies dresses by fashion designers worn in 10 fashion show seasons for hautecouture finales over the last five years(from 2011 S/S to 2015 F/W). The analysis of dresses are divided into 6 sections: classic image brands, new launching brands, designer``s image changing brands, continuous image brands, reentry collections brands, and non-continuous participated collection brands. In addition, fashion designer dress types based on this analysis are as follows. First, the type of individual image displayed positively appeals individual identity in fashion shows when wearing clothes like a fashion icon or model. Second, the type of personality orientation shows the personal image of the fashion designer rather than a brand image when expressing a favorite dress. Third, the type of reflecting the season trend shows seasonal trends by wearing a similar dress that match with the fashion show theme. Fourth, the type of consistent brand image means a dress by a fashion designer that meets a characteristic image of a brand that appeals to many people. Fifth, the type of original and typical fashion designer is a casual style(like a shirt and pants) that most people consider a fashion designers dress when leading and operating their own fashion show.
연구논문 : Louis Vuitton과 Billie Achilleos의 아트 콜라보레이션에 나타난 동물조각예술작품의 표현 유형과 미적 특성
김장현 ( Jang Hyeon Kim ),전여선 ( Yuh Sun Jun ),김영삼 ( Young Sam Kim ) 한국의류산업학회 2014 한국의류산업학회지 Vol.16 No.2
This study considers expression types and aesthetic characteristics by analyzing Animal sculptures by Billie Achilleos in art collaboration with Louis Vuitton. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, As for expressin type shown in the art collaboration, it is reflected the historical and cultural value peculiar to a country symbolized through animals. As the aesthetic characteristics of symbolism, it reflects historical identity of country by using an image of a symbolic animal representing a state. Second, as the type shown in physical characteristics of animals by utilizing items in Louis Vuitton directly, it is organically expressed a literal type by directly integrating a form having been designed as a commodity itself into the characteristically physical part of an animal. As the aesthetic characteristics according to this is naturality, the motive of the work having borrowed shapes of diverse animals or insects can be said to have been naturally reflected in the primitive natural beauty. Third, through the deconstruction and recombination of a Louis Vuittonitem. the amusement of the aesthetic characteristics was expressed in a type having the structurally embodied dynamic movement of an animal, and is expressing visual fun. Fourth, it uses expression type emphasized a specific part of an animalby decorating accessories in Louis Vuitton partly. The aesthetic characteristics is Ornament, the value of craft decoration is being shown by using colorful visual effects by using materials with the colorful textures and patterns of fabricsor mixing embroidery or beads, and belt decoration