한산이씨 문직물저고리에 나타난 문양과 직물구성- 단(緞)과 사(紗)를 중심으로 -

장인우 한국의상디자인학회 2013 한국의상디자인학회지 Vol.15 No.4

This study examined the motif, weave structure, fabric density, and thread thickness of the patterned silks excavated from the Lady Lee's Tomb to trace the weave composition of the 18th Century in Korea. Different weave compositions were adopted depending on the weave structure. Two weave structures appeared in these patterned silks : simple gauze and satin damask. In the case of simple gauze Jergori, all the components, Gil(bodice), Somae(Sleeve) had similar fabric density and thread thickness. On the other hand, the satin damask Jergoris was composed of the components of different fabric density and thread thickness. According to the fabric density and thread thickness, the motif sharpness of damask Jergori was represented in three different ways : smooth and clear, rough and clear, and rough and vague. This revealed that Lady Lee selected not only pattern but also fabric density and thread thickness in the design of damask Jergori.

충북대학교 박물관소장 조선시대복식연구 - 나손 (羅孫) 김동욱교수 (金東旭敎授) 추모논문집 -

장인우 충북대 박물관 1999 조사보고 Vol.61 No.-

조선중기 일상복의 색상연구 (Ⅰ)

장인우 한국복식학회 1998 服飾 Vol.41 No.-

This study investigates the color of daily clothes of middle era of Yi Dynasty by examining the color of excavated clothing which was the real clothes in 16th and 17th centuries. The purposes of this study lie in understanding emotional feeling observed by exact measurement of the color of the excavated and devising a method of reserving the color of the excavated by inspecting the discolored color of the excavated. For this, the color difference was measured by color measuring system. Minolta Chroma-meter, and then recorded in L^*a^*b system. The 3-dimensional color difference was observed by analyzing these data an Methmetica and change in color with ageing was assessed by reconstructing the color by Phoposhop. The color construction of daily clothes of middle era of the Chosun Dynasty was founded on a philosophy, and it was made up of colors such as white, brown, and blue. This color construction seemed to be based on the philosophy of naturalism symbolizing surrounding nature, e.g., white symbolizes Bak-sasang(bak-philosophy) and blue implies Eumyangohangsul.

연구논문 학술조사보고-임경백,임계백 묘 출토복식

장인우 忠北大學校 博物館 1998 年報 Vol.7 No.-

본문참고

15 ∼ 17 세기 예서에 나타난 염습의와 그 의미

장인우,이춘계 한국복식학회 1995 服飾 Vol.25 No.-

This study investgates the significance of Chosun burial clothing in 15th to 17th Centruies by examing the costumes recorded in the ryesu (ritual books). Referring to decription of the mouring-rit-ual in the the kujoohryei(국조오례의), the sangryebiyo(상례비요), they exhibit little difference in the ceremonial procedure. this implies that the the jujagarye, the oldiest Chinese Ryesu, had influence on the manner of Chosun. The Kujoohryei(국조오례의) written-in 15th Century played a paramount role in domestication of burial costume(염습의)which had been performed by the Jujagarye(주자가례), and the sangryebiyo(상례비요) etc written between 16th and 17th Centries promoted to genealize the mouring-ritual to the ordinery people. In the period, reymsupui(염습의, clothing for the dead) is costumes for `sup`(습), `sofyum`(소렴), and `daeryum`(대렴)` in the mourning ceremorial precedure, and for postliminal rites in the rites of passage. The reason of using clothing which they put on the dead`s own daily clothing stands for eagerness for lasting life not only in this world but also in the other world.

16 · 17 세기 저고리 형태에 관한 연구

장인우,이춘계 한국복식학회 1995 服飾 Vol.24 No.-

This study is on the classification of Che˘chori forms in Korea in the 16th and 17th Centuries by investigating the patterns and costruction of excavated clothong. The characteristic features of the Korean Che˘chori in the period are as follow. 1. The Che˘chori shows forms. The diversity is accomplished by varing the components patern of Che˘chori, such as collar, sleeve, and bodice. The diverification in Che˘chori pattern represents an attempt to advance the simple Che˘chori pattern in the 4th 5th Centuries to the mordern one. 2. Mokpankit (목판깃) has a straight construction line but Kalkit(칼깃)·Dangkokit(당코깃) have a curved one. This suggests a transformation in the construction line of Che˘chori. 3. Among Che˘chori pattern, some Mokpankit and Kalkit Che˘chori`s show two kinds in size ; 40∼50cm and 60∼70㎝. However, Dangkokit Che˘chori has only one size of 40∼50cm. Considering the differdnce in body size between man and woman, Mokpankit Che˘chori and Kalkit Che˘chori are jueged to be for man and woman commonly, and Dangkokit Che˘chori is for woman only. After the period, woman wears only Dangkokit Che˘choei, which is thought to come from the sex discrimination. Consequently on the viewpoint of Prinsiple of Adaptation to Environments, sforementioned facts prove the changes in Korean society in the 16th centuries on the historical basis of costume.

18세기 당의의 형태적 특징과 사회적 논의

장인우 한국역사민속학회 2011 역사민속학 Vol.0 No.37

The purpose of this study is to illuminate the historical significance of the 18th-century Dangeui through exploring the changes in the constructions and roles revealed in a collection of works of Confucian and in the Excavated Dangeui of the Chosun Dynasty. Among ladies’ ritual clothes, the 18th-century Dangeui was secondary ceremonial clothing replacing Wonsam in a rite of passage such as a coming-of-age ceremony(冠禮, Quinceanera), a wedding ceremony(昏禮), and a funeral(殮襲衣) but it was a main ceremonial clothing in the daily ritual such as daily lives and memorial services(祭禮). Dangeui was a ceremonial dress which most women could wear regardless of one’s own identity(from the Royal to Concubine and Remarriage bride)or age(to child). Side-slits are the constructional characteristic of Dangeui. These side-slits are a symbolic configuration of Baeja(vest) which is one of Chinese largest ritual dresses. Through the remains, we can observe two changes in the 18th-Dangeui; one is the disappearance of the curve gussets from the 16th-Jegori with side-slits, the other is the enlarged proportions of the side-slits in the 16th-Jergori. With such changes the construction of Baeja style was embodied in the 18th-century Dangeui. it means that the 18th-century Dangeui was equipped with configurations as a ceremonial dress through the change of the construction of the Jergori style into that of the Baeja style. The role enlargement of Dangeui originated from the style in which women’s daily clothing of the late Chosun Dynasty had changed into shorter Jergori and longer skirts. Such a style was off the balance in halves and called Bokyo. The style was not welcomed because it was regarded as the symbol of the disaster. The appearance of Dangeui as a ceremonial dress may be an alternative for avoiding the disaster, accommodating the Bokyo style as a contemporary trend. 한국의 대표적인 예복가운데 하나인 당의는 저고리와 달리 긴 길이와 겨드랑이 아래의 긴 트임 그리고 앞뒤자락의 밑도련의 둥근 곡선으로 특징적 형태를 이룬다. 본 논문은 18세기전후 여자출토복식 대부분에서 출현하는 당의가 18세기 인물들의 문집에서도 집중적으로 언급되는 사실에서 출발하였다. 본 논문에서 조선시대 문집에 언급된 당의의 내용을 살펴 당시 당의의 착용과 역할에 대한 시대적 배경을 이해하고, 과거 실물과 보고서 및 이전의 연구성과를 토대로 출토 옆트임저고리와 출토당의를 비교․분석함으로써 옆트임저고리와 당의와의 유사점과 차이점을 도출하여 실물자료에 나타난 18세기 당의의 변화와 유형을 파악하고자 하였다. 문집에 나타난 당의에 관한 논의는 크게 구성과 착용에 집중된다. 이러한 당의의 구성과 착용에 관한 논의는 여자들의 일상복에 예복의 필요성과 실례를 주지시키고자하는 18세기 학자들의 의도로 해석된다. 당의의 착용이 18세기 의례뿐 아니라 일상에 이르기까지 폭넓게 확대되고, 당의의 구성이 발달된 것은 조선후기 여인들의 일상복이 짧은 저고리와 긴치마(長裙而上甚短)의 복요(服妖)차림으로 변화함에 따라 비롯되었다. 이에 따라 18세기 학자들은 음양의 이치에서 벗어난 당시의 치마저고리에 의한 복요차림을 하나의 금기로 보았으며, 이를 금하기보다는 수용할 수 있도록 제안한 대안이 바로 당의의 착용이었다.

분단과 교류이후 남북한 한복에 나타난 변화 - 여자 저고리 중심으로 -

장인우 韓國衣類學會 2006 한국의류학회지 Vol.30 No.1

조선중기 창의구성의 이해 : 전 박장군묘 청색무명겹창의의 재현을 통하여 Through the Process of Reconstructing Chang - ui Excavated from General Park's Tomb

장인우 한국의류학회 2001 한국의류학회지 Vol.25 No.3

This study is to understand Chang-ui construction of the middle Chosun Dynasty through the reconstruction of the blue Chang-ui which was excavated from General Park's tomb. The followings are the results of this study. There are 4 styles in excavated Chang-ui of middle Chosun Dynasty: Two styles seem to belong to the early 17th Century and the other, the late 17th century. The former is classified into 2 styles by the gender of the wearer, the latter is also classified into 2 styles by etiquette of clothing. We can assume that Chang-ui excavated from General Park's tomb was the woman's clothing in early 17th century. This Chang-ui(II) differs from other Chang-ui( I) at two points. One is the construction of the trapezoid and triangle gussets on the side seam of clothing. The other is the construction of the narrow width of clothing(23cm). We have found that these two gussets could improve the active aspect of clothing and save materials. It is identified that the green tone was faded from the blue color of Chang-ui according to the calculation of the L'a'b.

강화 역사관 전시의복 복원에 관하여

장인우,Jang, In-U 국립문화재연구소 1988 保存科學硏究 Vol.9 No.-