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거들 및 웨이스트니퍼 착용에 의한 의복압 평가 및 관련된 착용변인
이희란 ( Heeran Lee ),홍경희 ( Kyunghi Hong ),김양원 ( Yang Weon Kim ),박세진 ( Se Jin Park ) 한국감성과학회 2013 감성과학 Vol.16 No.1
본 연구에서는 인체 상?하체에 대한 적정 의복압값과 평소 착용습관에 따른 주관적 압박감의 차이를 알아보기 위해 30-40대 중년여성을 대상으로 거들과 웨이스트 니퍼를 착용한 후 압력값과 주관적 압박감을 측정하였다. 또한 화운데이션 착용 시 주관적 압박감에 영향을 미치는 제반 요소(자세변화, 착용시간, 심호흡 등)에 대하여 알아보고자 의복압과 주관적 압박감를 측정하고 분석하여 다음과 같은 결론을 얻었다. 적정 의복압의 평균 결과 거들은 2.1±0.8 kPa, 웨이스트 니퍼는 1.5±0.8 kPa 로 하체의 적정 평균 의복압이 상체에 비하여 높게 나타났으며, 하체보다는 상체에서 평소 느슨하게 입을수록 압박 수준에 대한 민감도가 컸다. 화운데이션 착용습관 조사를 통해 느슨하게 입는 그룹을 ‘loosely’, 조여입는 그룹을 ‘tightly’로 분류하여 압력값과 주관적 평가의 상관관계를 살펴본 결과 ‘loosely’ 그룹에서 객관적 압력값과 주관적 평가 간에 또한 주관적 평가와 선호도 간에 상관계수가 더 높게 나타나 평소의 착용습관이 압박감각에 영향을 미침을 알 수 있었다. 자세(선 자세, 앉은 자세)에 따른 압력값의 변화는 웨이스트 니퍼에서만 유의한 차이가 나타나(p=.001), 웨이스트 니퍼 설계 시 적정 의복압을 유지하기 위한 주의를 거들보다 더 기울여야 함을 알 수 있었다. 또한, 시간이 지남에 따라 실제 압력값은 변화가 없었으나 주관적 압박감은 대체적으로 적응을 하여 장기간 착용 시 생리적으로 부정적 영향을 미쳐도 인식하지 못할 수 있음을 알 수 있다. The purpose of this paper is to investigate the adequate clothing pressure of upper and lower body foundation garment and subjective assessment of those compressive foundation depending on various wearing conditions. Eighteen women in their 30s and 40s participated in the experiments for this study to evaluate the level of clothing pressure of girdle and waist nipper. Subjects were divided into two groups by the wearing habits of foundation, one is the group of wearing foundation garment ``tightly`` and the other is ``loosely``, It was found that the group wearing foundation garment ``loosely`` was much more sensitive than the group of ``tightly`` in everyday life. The adequate pressure of upper foundation, waist nipper was about 1.5±0.8 kPa which is lower than that of the lower body foundation, girdle. And at the same time, the sensitivity of the pressure level was higher when subjects are wearing waist nipper compared with wearing girdle. Therefore, precise pattern making process is necessary to meet the adequate level of pressure of the upper body foundation such as waist nipper, specially for those who used to wear clothing loosely.
곡선 절개형 바지의 패턴사이즈 변형방법과 3D 가상착의곡면
이희란 ( Heeran Lee ) 한국패션비즈니스학회 2016 패션 비즈니스 Vol.20 No.4
With the advent of smart clothing for health care and sports, the sophisticated designs with curved seams are drawing attention. One of the problems in those clothing is to determine the design curves in 2D pattern, such that it corresponds to the lines on the intended 3D body. Moreover, the difficulty increases when the original pattern needs to be changed for various sizes and body types. We compare two methods of pattern enlargement in this paper: one is the offset/projection type, and the other is the split grading type. For the enlarged pattern with offset/projection type, the 3D surface offset was first adopted to transform the standard lower body to the target larger size; next, the design lines were projected to the new 3D surface, following which the 3D pattern was developed from the newly transformed 3D surface. In the second method, the enlarged pant patterns were developed by the split grading method. Here, a 3D pattern was developed from the initial body, and then enlarged to the target size by the conventional split grading method. Two feminine pants patterns were examined by 3D virtual fitting. We observed that the 3D offset/projection pants pattern was well fitted, having an evenly distributed surplus, as compared with the sample developed using the split grading method. The difference between the two patterns were apparent at the location where several curved lines merged.