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개더스커드 (Gathered Skirt) 의 적정 개더분량에 관한연구 (Ⅱ)
서미아(Mi A Suh),권지영(Ji Young Kwon) 한국복식학회 1999 服飾 Vol.47 No.-
To find the reasonable gathering amount by a length of gathered skirt and a fabric, the methods of this study were divided on three types -five kinds of the gathering amounts, three kinds of fabrics, and three kinds of skirt length-, so forty five kinds of the samples were made. As the visual evaluation and the shape of hemlines evaluation of the gathered skirt were practiced by these factors, this study found the aesthetical gathering amount and analyzed the shape of hemlines. The following are the results of this research. 1. In the same fabric and skirt length, according to estimate a hemlines shape of a gathered skirt, the increased amount of the node number of cotton fabric was widest, and wool fabric was most stable. And when the gathering amounts of each fabric were higher than 1.5 times, the node indexes were become smaller and the gathering amount were no difference. According as a skirt length was longer, the node indexes assumed a similar aspects, but according as the skirt length was shorten and the gathering amount was smaller, the node shapes were level and broad. And according to being increased a gathering amount, the width of right and left of gathered skirt was generally wider. 2. In the same gathering amount and skirt length, in seeing the estimation of a hemlines shape of a gathered skirt, when the skirt length was 40cm in cotton, polyester, wool fabrics, the node indexes were similar at up to 1.5 times of gathering amount, and especially it became very bigger at 0.5 times and according as the gathering amount was increased, node index became gradually smaller. The width of right and left of the skirt hemlines of wool fabric was more smaller than polyester and cotton fabrics, so it is happen to hang down. 3. In the same gathering amount and fabric, in seeing the estimation of a hemlines shape as a variation of a skirt length, when the gathering amount of cotton and polyester was from up to 1.5 times, and wool fabric was from up to 1.0 times, according as skirt length was longer, node index in the same gathering amount was decreased. And in case as it was 0.5 times, the node indexes of the 40cm and 60cm skirt length were bigger than other factors. In the same gathering amount, the width of right and left of the skirt hemlines was smaller at 60cm skirt length and polyester fabric was smaller at 80cm skirt length.
개더 스커트 (Gathered Skit) 의 적정 개더분량에 관한 연구 (I)
서미아(Mi A Suh),권지영(Ji Young Kwon) 한국복식학회 1999 服飾 Vol.46 No.-
This study was for reasonable gathering by a fabric and a skirt length. So the purpose of this study was to show the basic data to forecast the gathering effect of gathered skirt which was more aesthetical and suitable for a use in time of making pattern. To find the reasonable gathering amount by a length of gathered skirt and a fabric, the methods of this study were divided on three types-five kinds of the gathering amounts, three kinds of fabrics, and three kinds of skirt length-, so forty five kinds of the samples were made. As the visual evaluation of the gathered skirt were practiced by these factors. The following are the results of this research. 1. For this research of fabrics, the gathering amounts which were shown visually the most aesthetical silhouette in the same material and skirt length were decided on 1.5 times or 2.0 times. On the other side, 0.5 times and 2.5 times of gathering amount were got a low estimation visually 2. Except in case the skirt length was 40cm and gathering amount were 1.0 times and 1.5 times, in the same gathering amount and length of skirt, it was estimated that wool fabric was most aesthetical silhouette fabric. On the other hand, it was got low estimation which the cotton was not good for draping effect because it was got the lowest estimation level in all cases. 3. Considered as a whole, in the same gathering amount and fabric, the fabric widths for gathering which were shown the most aesthetical silhouette were estimated the length of 60cm in cotton fabric, 80 cm in polyester fabric, and 40cm in wool fabric. Therefore, as a fabric was weighty, a length of a skirt was shorten, so it was estimated visually more beautiful.
서미아 ( Mi A Suh ),이보나 ( Bo Na Lee ) 복식문화학회 2011 服飾文化硏究 Vol.19 No.1
Jacket is popular ready-made garment among college students in their early 20s. However, ready-made jackets, which are designed to fit normal people, are not likely to fit sportsmen well who have highly developed muscles in particular parts of their bodies. And muscle development is quite different among sportsmen according to the types of sports and bodily movements. Therefore, ready-made jackets can not be expected to fit sportsmen well as they fit normal people who have different shapes of bodies from sportsmen. The purpose of this study is to investigate the factors of fitness and comfortableness of jackets for sportsmen in their early 20s according to the types of sports to provide basic data for designing suitable garments for them. Research method, 362 college sportsmen in their early 20s were surveyed from June 2nd 2009 to June 9th 2009, and 360 of them were processed statistically, with 2 of them having been discarded for lack of sincerity. Among Taekwondo players, Arm Length was the most complained part, among wrestlers, Biacromion Length was the most complained part, among fencers, ``Waist Circumference`` was the most complained part, among swimmers, Biacromion Length was the most complained part, among apparatus gymnast, ``Hip Circumfetence`` was the most complained part, among track athletes and handball players, more than 20% answered that the jackets did not fit them in every parts. It was understood that different sportsmen complained of particular parts of the jackets and that parts of the jacket should be adjusted according to bodily shapes of different sportsmen. This study was made to investigate the factors to be considered in producing ready-made jackets for college sportsmen. It is hoped that more patterns will be developed on the basis of the original form of jacket and the result of this study.
30대 남성 소비자의 수트 스타일에 따른 구매 및 맞음새 조사
서미아 ( Mi A Suh ),김명옥 ( Myoung Ok Kim ) 복식문화학회 2011 服飾文化硏究 Vol.19 No.1
The purpose of this study was designed to investigate the purchasing considerations given and wearing fit according to suit styles in male consumers in their 30s by conducting questionnarie research with 410 persons. The research intended ta give menswear manufacturers the scientific data to improve consumers` satisfaction when menswear brands produce jackets. The summary and conclusions in this study are as follows: First, male consumers have moderate interest in fashion and recognize the impact of fashion on their professional lives. Also, male consumers were aware that recent menswear fashion trends are being changed Q slim-fit. Second, by examining the suit inventory and the purchasing consideration according to the suit styles, male consumers in their 30s had between 2 to 4 suits, both in slim-fit and classic-fit, respectively. When consumers purchase a suit, the most important consideration factors are size and wearing fit in both slim-fit and classic-fit. The reason to purchase a slim fit suit is that it seems slim due to its fitted silhouettes, while in a classic-fit suit, it is required because of job nature. Third, the result indicates the circumferences causing the most uncomfortable were the shoulder, chest, the back, and upper arm. Also, they mentioned the chest and the abdominal section including the shoulder as the most uncomfortable circumference to the question on what to be improved in jacket. Therefore, the research suggests that the menswear manufacturer should consider different consumers" desires which require different criteria based on the suit styles.