中國 團領名稱에 關한 硏究

文光姬 한국의류학회 1987 한국의류학회지 Vol.11 No.1

Dan-Ryong is the traditional clothing that was worn the entire of oriental nations, and it was spreaded from Sun-Bi tribe to China about A.D. 4C. The first, the name of Dan-Ryong was translated with 25-Sa and Ancient-History Book. Among the name of Dan-Ryong, the follows were different between the name and shape. Jang-Bok was the colored Dan-Ryong, So-Bok was the unfigured black Dan-Ryong and removed Hyung-Bae, Ea-Mun-Pho was the Dan-Ryong of embroidered figure poetry, and Ja-Sam was the real short and tight Dan-Ryong. The second, some problems were given by translated Dan-Ryong's name. The results of the problems were as follows; 1. Dan-Ryong was oriented from Won-Wi. 2. At Su-Dynasty, there was going to the persuit of Han-Dynasty Courtesy, but they liked useful custom. Therefore Dan-Ryong was worn in daily life among the population. 3. At Dang-Dynasty, Ho-Bok was devided with three meanings. The first was Go-Sub, the second was Dan-Ryong of Buk-Jo about A.D. 3-5C and the last meaning was the clothing of Uighur, Turkey, Persia and etc. about A.D. 7 C. 4. The name of neck-line shape was started at Song and the majority arised about A.D. 12C. and Dan-Ryong was only arised at Myong-Dynasty. 5. Gok-Ryong, except Song-Sa and Sam-Je-He-Do, was different from Dan-Ryong and it was shape of neck-line inside of Jik-Ryong.

『枕草子』의 복식자료 연구

문광희 동의대학교 생활과학연구소 1997 生活科學論集 Vol.1 No.-

This paper is a study on the expression of Clothing and Textiles recorded in 『Makur-anosorsi(枕草子)』. This book was written by a Japanese servant in the Royal Court about the year 1000. In this book, many kinds of Clothing, ornament, color and materials were mentioned. The discoveries of this paper were as follows. 1. There were 85 different kinds of name. In detail, there were 46 Clothing and Accessories, 32 Colors, 11 Materials, Patterns, the method of Dyeing. 2. All the Clothing and Textiles in 『Makur-anosorsi』were reflections of the reality of that time. 3. From ancient times, Japanese Costume was much influenced by Korea. But around the 7th century the influence increased. 4. Almost all Clothing and Accessories used in Japan in the 10th century had been previosly used in neighboring countries, Korea and China. But after they were imported to Japan, some of them were changed to Japanese hybrids, especially in name and shape. 5. In Japan, Clothing Colors were used in various ways, sometimes colors coordinated by over lapping dress and othertimes the colors were weaved together. Namely the width and length of these colorful fibres are also significant meaning. This means that the Japanese was much more interested in color than other countries, and this also proves Clothing Colors were very developed in Japan by the 10th century. 6. The Materials discovered in this book were almost all silk. This is the reason why 『Makuranosorsi』was the expression of the Royal Court.

한국 傳統服色의 특징적 요소

문광희 東義大學校 生活科學硏究所 1999 生活科學論集 Vol.3 No.-

This study searchs the characteristic factors of the Korean traditional costume. The results are as follows. 1. It was used Oh-Bang-Color(五方色) of the purple, the white, the blue, the red, the black and mainly six colors to the purple of Tai-il(太一) thoughts at the age of ancient times. The officers who are high in position were decided to the purple and the red costume and low in positon were determined on the blue costume among them. 2. The costume's characteristic at the age of the Unification Silla(統一新羅) is the Reddish yellow and the dark purple. The Reddish is symbolized by the King as color of the earth and it seems to use from the mid of seven century as the result of comparing with around countries. A motive which made beautiful purple after the Goryeo Dynasty(高麗) was caused by the dark purple. 3. The King's costume had found the yellow, the red, the black, the purple, the white and the officer's found the purple, the red, the green in Goryeo Dynasty. As simplifying the color at the age of late than early, it lowed the second grade than the Chinese. The characteristic costume of the Goryeo Dynasty is the purple, it was getting to the black and expecially made a more beautiful purple than other countries. 4. The characteristic costume of the Chosun Dynasty(朝鮮) shows a decline of the red and in addition, what the black strenghten and the blue's various exprssions which gave in the course of that. Expecially, the color of the green means a deep blue which darken indigo dying.

호텔용 가운 제작을 위한 전통문양의 선호도 실태조사

문광희 東義大學校 生活科學硏究所 2002 生活科學論集 Vol.6 No.-

This is a survey about Korean Traditional Pattern to design Hotel Grown that has used in Korea. This was surveyed to the customers and managers of Hotel. The results were as follows; There were many kinds of Korean Traditional Pattern. In fact, Korean flag was the most favorite pattern among all of them. The patterns of Clouds, Birds, Decorations of Gold Crown were favored as well. Number of reasons they chose Korean Flag were; first, Word-Cup held in Korea several months ago and the second, most of Koreans love their own country. In the future, we are going to need to study more about design and graphic of these patterns especially Korean Flag, so that foreigners who visit Korea can remember and love Korea for a long time.

조선중기 기녀복식에 관한 연구

문광희,최경희 한복문화학회 2006 한복문화학회 학술대회 Vol.- No.-

전통복식문화의 영역과 개발

문광희 동의대학교 생활과학연구소 1997 生活科學論集 Vol.1 No.-

전통 계급사회와 의복색의 심화현상

문광희 한국복식학회 2005 춘계 학술대회 Vol.2005 No.-

『 源氏物語』에 나타난 복식자료 연구

문광희 동의대학교 생활과학연구소 1997 生活科學論集 Vol.1 No.-

This paper is a study on the expression of Clothing and Textiles recorded in 「Genjimonokatary(源氏物語)」. This book is a novel written by a Japanese servant worked in the Royal Court around the year 1010. In this book, about 110 different kinds of Garments, Ornaments, Colors and Materials were mentioned. The results of this paper were as follows. 1. About the Garments & Ornaments ; All the Clothing, Color. Textiles in 「Genjimonkatary」 were reflections of the reality of that time. In the Clothing, Color Textile and even Hair style, the Symbol of Buddism appeared. Many technical methods were developed in the garment shaping, dyeng and wearing methods. 2. About the Colors & Dyes; There were many kinds of Color & Dyes described in 『Genjimonokatary』. This means color was developed more than other elements in that period. Among them, gray and black colors were mentioned, this means Buddist Color was fashioned in that period 『Kasaneno-irome(襲色目)』was changed from Ungan (운간) that had been origined of China and Korea. But it became one of the Japanese Costume. That have some reasons, for instance, high materials could not be imported from other countris and many people were controlled by the Taboo of clothing (禁制) so they wanted the better method, such as Kasaneno-irome. Many kinds of colors name was origined from flowers and plants. It also represented the seasons. Yurusi-iro(聽色) was meaning the permitable color to the popular people. Without the head word, Deep Color' and 'Pale Color' meant those things of the purple and red. 3. About the Materials & Patterns; The materials imported from other country, China and Korea, were good in quality, but those produced in Japan were not good. There were many kinds of dyeing method, especially Srijome(摺染) was very special and nice method in that period.

曲領에 관한 연구

문광희 한국의류학회 1990 한국의류학회지 Vol.14 No.2

Kok-Ryung covers the collar of underwear and protects the neck. It is between outer garment and underwear and its form is bent. According to literature, Cheom-Yu, Keup, and Pang-Ryung belong to Kok-Ryung. Kok-Ryung was used in Yemaek and also it was used as a part of the uniform of government officer in Song Dynasty. The results of the study were as follows: 1) With the changes of the times, Cheom-Yu was used in Ju Dynasty, Pang-Ryung was used in Han Dynasty, and Kok-Ryung was used from Nam-Jo through Soo, Tang, Song Dynasity. 2) Cheom-yu, Pang-Ryung, and Kok-Ryung were all made of long rectangular cloth. However, Chemo-Yu and Pang-Ryung were adjusted in front of the neck, Kok-Ryung was adjusted on the back. 3) The purpose of Kok-Ryung was practial one of sweat clothes at first. But it became for decoration and dignity gradually. Therefore, the users of it were changed from the common people to high government officers. 4) Cheom-Yu, Po-Ryung, Keup, and Pang-Ryung were all a kind of scarf and they are the same with Kok-Ryung in the respect. They were put on between outer garment and underwear or attached under the collar of outer garment. 5) Kok-Ryung of Song-Sa seems to be the round collar the uniform of government officers and it is different from Kok-Ryung of Suk-Myung.

한국 전통 복식을 응용한 호텔용 가운의 디자인 개발을 위한 실태 조사 -호텔업소를 대상으로-

문광희,문명옥,민예리 한복문화학회 2002 韓服文化 Vol.5 No.2

To design hotel gown based on Korean traditional costume. this study was surveyed and analyzed current conditions of gown used in hotel. When we researched current gowns used in hotel. color was white and pale. style was one-piece. fabric was cotton towel weave. Gowns were furnished in many hotels of Korea to increase guests' satisfaction of hotel service. However. we could find several problems from that. for example lot of money(in spite of energy and water. water pollution) was spent keeping gown clean. In addition, most of hotel managers agreed that it is necessary to make new design based on Korean traditional costumes. If guests of hotel wear the new gown. they can feel Korean traditional culture and fresh taste and hotels in Korea are distinct from hotels in any other country. When we design hotel gown based on Korean traditionai costume. we should use the constructional lines of Korean traditional Pho. When we design textiles of hotel gown we have to consider sanitary. utility and cost of clean. To express Korean image. we use Korean traditional pattern of Taegug(Korean frag).