Cloth(ing) for the dead: case study of three designers’ green burial practices

Gwendolyn M. Michel,이영아 한국의류학회 2017 Fashion and Textiles Vol.4 No.1

The aim of this study was to explore the current green burial clothing movement by examining three designers’ work using a multi-case study approach. Green burial incorporates a sustainability concept into funeral practices. Cradle-to-cradle, as opposed to cradle-to-grave, is a model for sustainability practices that plan for the product lifecycle to continue after consumer use of the product has concluded. The works of Mark Mitchell, Jae Rhim Lee and Pia Interlandi were selected for the three cases of green burial practices in the context of cradle-to-cradle design using the five steps to eco-effectiveness. They used natural fibers in their clothing designed for green burial, and created clothing intended to be non-toxic to the soil and groundwater when buried with the body. Jae Rhim Lee’s designs included a mushroom culture to aid in decomposition of the body and remediation of toxins found in the body, resulting in compostable soil. In addition to the multi-case study, this study also examined a wide variety of primary and secondary research literature from the fields of forensics, archaeology, and textile science to identify current purchase options for green burial clothing and to inform suggestions for future development of green burial apparel within the context of cradle-to-cradle design. This study also urged the importance of consumer awareness in terms of the choice of burial clothing if considering the full implementation of the cradle-to-cradle design principles into green burial clothing practices. The findings of this study call for further research on sustainability in burial clothing.

Impacting Cultural Globalization through Costume and Apparel Related Professions

Gwendolyn S. O`Neal 복식문화학회 2004 The Costume Culture Association International Conf Vol.2004 No.10

Costumes, Commodities, and Culture : on Shaping Knowledge

Gwendolyn S, O′-Neal The Costume Culture Association 2002 Fashion, industry and education Vol.5 No.1

Consumer behavior is driven by culture; and culture is contextual. Therefore, human behaviors such as those exhibited in consumption behavior should not be measured and compared cross-culturally by using cultural specific mea-sures or paradigms which assume a universal reality, time and context free. Since it is known that consumption behavior is influenced by culture, and cultures in the United States differ from those in Korea, the assumption of universal ‘truths’ which can be known is inappropriate. To employ a paradigm with invalid assumptions automatically leads to the lack of validity, a must for truth claims in the positivist paradigm. Thus, 'truths' in the research reported must be suspect.

THE STORIES WE WEAR: MENDING AND BLOGGING PATAGONIA BRAND APPAREL

Gwendolyn Michel,Meegan Feori,Mary Lynn Damhorst,Young-A Lee,Linda Niehm 글로벌지식마케팅경영학회 2017 Global Fashion Management Conference Vol.2017 No.07

Known originally for climbing gear and outdoor clothing, Patagonia is now a leader in the area of sustainability practices. In this qualitative study, we examined the content of Patagonia’s blog “Stories We Wear” (SWW) that features customers’ stories about Patagonia apparel items worn and repaired to extend the product lifecycle. Patagonia encourages its customers to take part in a dialog of anti-consumption via the blog in which readers and authors of the posts can both engage with the brand and create their own sustainable identity. The overarching research question for the study was to determine the major reoccurring themes of the SWW blog posts. Five key themes identified in the blog posts were: (1) the emotional attachment to the apparel item; (2) outdoor adventure travel connecting to escapism; (3) the imagined future of the item; (4) valuing the item as an investment or the mark of a turning point in one’s life and identity; and (5) the act of repairing the item. The reasons SWW writers keep their Patagonia apparel items include quality and comfort, as well as the emotional attachment to both the apparel item and the brand. Carroll and Ahuvia’s (2006) concept of brand love is embedded in SWW stories. The repairs promote sustainability, a brand, and societal value. Customers did not discontinue purchase of new items; instead, they viewed purchases of Patagonia apparel as an investment. Through SWW, Patagonia encourages emotional attachment to its brand and promotes sustainability, while offering customers an opportunity to embrace a shared identity with the brand. The findings demonstrate that the SWW blog is a positive marketing strategy (Gopaldas, 2015) that promotes company, customer, and societal values of sustainability. The themes found in Patagonia’s SWW concept can be utilized by other companies seeking to enhance their sustainability practices and customer engagement with their products.

Featured Articles : Elites and Elitism in American Democracy ; Who Frames the Message? Countermovements and Public Perception of Social Movements` Legal Agendas

( Gwendolyn Leachman ) 서울대학교 미국학연구소 2010 미국학 Vol.33 No.1

Social conservatives have historically used populist rhetoric and “activist judges” framing to de-legitimate progressive social movements` litigation strategies. In this paper, I show that opponents to lesbian, gay, bisexual, and transgender (LGBT) rights have used these discursive resources to draw attention to same-sex marriage litigation-a tactic that constitutes only a small part of the LGBT movement`s legal docket. I argue that as a result of this resonant countermovement framing, the LGBT movement has become widely mischaracterized in the mainstream media, in academia, and within the movement itself as dominated by its focus on same-sex marriage. This paper therefore demonstrates how a social movement`s litigation strategy can be used to support countermovement rhetoric, which may in turn distort a movement`s message and its public identity.

Proceedings Global Outlook of Fashion : Special Lecture 1 ; Impacting Cultural Globalization through Costume and Apparel Related Professions

( Gwendolyn S. O`Neal ) 복식문화학회 2004 2004 The Costume Culture Association International Vol.0 No.-

숨을 곳이라곤 없다

MacEwen, Gwendolyn 숙명여자대학교 어문학연구소 1988 어문학 Vol.4 No.-

중요한 것은 격정이다

MacEwen, Gwendolyn 숙명여자대학교 어문학연구소 1988 어문학 Vol.4 No.-

Actions of Prostaglandins on Human Nucleus Pulposus Metabolism Inferred by Cyclooxygenase 2 Inhibition of Cytokine Activated Cells

Nam Vo,Brandon Couch,Joon Lee,Gwendolyn Sowa,James Kang,Studer Rebecca 대한척추신경외과학회 2020 Neurospine Vol.17 No.1

Objective: Low back pain is frequently treated with nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs), but little is known about intervertebral disc metabolism of the prostaglandins that are diminished by these drugs. Hence, this study aimed at delineating prostaglandin actions in cytokine activated disc cells by comparing the response of nucleus pulposus (NP) cells to the pro-inflammatory cytokine interleukin (IL)-1β with and without cyclooxygenase 2 (COX-2) inhibition. Methods: NP cells cultured in alginate beads were activated with IL-1β±the COX-2 inhibitor Sc-58125. Media harvested from cultured cells were analyzed for prostaglandin E2 (PGE2), prostaglandin F2 alpha (PGF2α), IL-6, and matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-3 by enzymelinked immunosorbent assay and nitric oxide by Griess Reaction. Gene expression along with proteoglycan, collagen, and total protein synthesis were also measured. Results: IL-1β increased culture media PGE2 and PGF2α, but decreased proteoglycan and collagen syntheses as well as mRNA expression of the matrix genes aggrecan, versican, collagen I, and collagen II. COX-2 inhibition partially rescued proteoglycan and collagen syntheses and collagen I mRNA, but decreased collagen II mRNA IL-1β activated NP cells. COX-2 inhibition initially enhanced and subsequently reduced IL-1β induced inducible nitric oxide synthase, without altering medium nitrite. IL-1β induction of MMP-3 mRNA was increased by COX-2 inhibition at 24 and 48 hours. Conclusion: COX-2 inhibition alters the response of NP cells to IL-1β, suggesting IL-1β action on disc cells is mediated at least in part through COX-2 and its prostaglandins. COX-2 inhibition produces minimal effects on several key catabolic mediators, with the exception of MMP-3. Blocking COX-2 might be beneficial for maintaining disc matrix since it provides an overall rescue of IL-1 induced loss of matrix protein synthesis.

EMBEDDED PROTOSTARS IN THE DUST, ICE, AND GAS IN TIME (DIGIT)<i>HERSCHEL</i>KEY PROGRAM: CONTINUUM SEDs, AND AN INVENTORY OF CHARACTERISTIC FAR-INFRARED LINES FROM PACS SPECTROSCOPY

Green, Joel D.,Evans II, Neal J.,Jørgensen, Jes K.,Herczeg, Gregory J.,Kristensen, Lars E.,Lee, Jeong-Eun,Dionatos, Odysseas,Yildiz, Umut A.,Salyk, Colette,Meeus, Gwendolyn,Bouwman, Jeroen,Visser, Ruu IOP Publishing 2013 The Astrophysical journal Vol.770 No.2

<P>We present 50-210 mu m spectral scans of 30 Class 0/I protostellar sources, obtained with Herschel-PACS, and 0.5-1000 mu m spectral energy distributions, as part of the Dust, Ice, and Gas in Time Key Program. Some sources exhibit up to 75 H2O lines ranging in excitation energy from 100 to 2000 K, 12 transitions of OH, and CO rotational lines ranging from J = 14 -> 13 up to J = 40 -> 39. [O I] is detected in all but one source in the entire sample; among the sources with detectable [O I] are two very low luminosity objects. The mean 63/145 mu m [O I] flux ratio is 17.2 +/- 9.2. The [O I] 63 mu m line correlates with L-bol, but not with the time-averaged outflow rate derived from low-J CO maps. [C II] emission is in general not local to the source. The sample L-bol increased by 1.25 (1.06) and T-bol decreased to 0.96 (0.96) of mean (median) values with the inclusion of the Herschel data. Most CO rotational diagrams are characterized by two optically thin components (< N > = ( 0.70 +/- 1.12) x 10(49) total particles). N-CO correlates strongly with L-bol, but neither T-rot nor N-CO(warm)/N-CO(hot) correlates with L-bol, suggesting that the total excited gas is related to the current source luminosity, but that the excitation is primarily determined by the physics of the interaction (e.g., UV-heating/shocks). Rotational temperatures for H2O (< T-rot > = 194 +/- 85 K) and OH (< T-rot > = 183 +/- 117 K) are generally lower than for CO, and much of the scatter in the observations about the best fit is attributed to differences in excitation conditions and optical depths among the detected lines.</P>