편백나무 잎 추출물 및 편백나무 잎과 꼭두서니 추출물로 염색한 견직물의 표면색 및 기능성

장현주,정진순,Jang, Hyun-Joo,Jung, Jin-Soun 한국의류산업학회 2017 한국의류산업학회지 Vol.19 No.4

This study finds surface color and functions of natural dyeing from Chamaecyparis obtusa leaves which help cure skin problems such as atopic dermatitis. This study also seeks to find dyeing properties and functions of natural colorants derived from Chamaecyparis obtusa and Rubia tinctorum on silk. Dyeing properties and functions are compared between silks dyed with Chamaecyparis obtusa and silks composite-dyed with Chamaecyparis obtusa and Rubia tinctorum. The comparison examines the feasibility of developing healthy and high functional fabrics and wellness of fashion merchandises. Silk dyeing with Chamaecyparis obtuse leaves yields yellow and double coloring from Chamaecyparis obtusa; however, Rubia tinctorum yields yellow/red on silks. Silks dyed with Chamaecyparis obtusa and silks composite-dyed with Chamaecyparis obtusa and Rubia tinctorum show a high level on dry cleaning, ultraviolet protection and deodorization. Especially, the dyed silks from leaves of Chamaecyparis obtusa show a 99.7% antimicrobial effect against staphylococcus aureus ATCC 653B. Silks composite-dyed with Chamaecyparis obtusa and Rubia tinctorum are better known for medicinal herb for dermatitis, and natural colorant, Rubia tinctorum does not improve significantly functions compared with silks dyed with Chamaecyparis obtusa. However, the dyeing properties improve by composite dyeing. This implies that ways to maximize effects of tie-dyeing technique could be developed.

조선시대 민화 <연화도> 콘텐츠를 활용한 문화상품 개발

장현주(Hyun Joo Jang) 한국복식학회 2012 服飾 Vol.62 No.5

This study aims to collect Miahwa, or folk painting, particularly the Lotus Flower Painting, to analyze its formative characteristics and related story, and to develop cultural fashion products by utilizing Korean traditional culture and modern flavor based on the results. Lotus flowers grow from mud, but are unstained, and they bloom beautiful flowers. Thus, they symbolize Gunja, a true gentleman who is very learned and proper in behavior. In Buddhism, lotus flowers are divine flowers that have the meaning of the creation of life and the eternal cycle of birth, death and rebirth. Lotus flowers also represent the love between man and woman as well as conjugal harmony and love. Lotus flower painting includes the paintings of the lotus flower alone as well as the paintings of the lotus flower with ducks, white heron, kingfisher, fish, butterfly, crab, or tortoise. Colors that are mostly used in lotus flower paintings is the compatible combination of red and blue (green). Based on these findings, fashion products such as bag accessories, sitting cushions, and kitchen utensils are developed using various designs such as realistically drawn lotus flower, schematized lotus flower, the lotus flower alone, or the lotus flower with kingfisher, crab, or dragonfly, that emphasizing the compatible color combination of red and blue.

곰보배추 추출물로 염색한 면직물의 자외선 차단율, 소취성 및 항균성

장현주 ( Hyun Joo Jang ),정진순 ( Jin Soun Jung ) 한국의류산업학회 2016 한국의류산업학회지 Vol.18 No.3

This study examined the stainability and functionality of cotton dyed with the extract of Salvia Plebia R. Br. as a research preceding the development of health functional materials and fashion products with a healing motif. The CIELAB measurements of the cotton fabric dyed with the extract of Salvia Plebia R. Br. showed 73.32 for L*, 1.7 for a*, and 37.78 for b*, while the Munsell measurements exhibited 2.63Y in color, 7.18 of brightness, and 5.49 of chroma. The degree of staining resulting from color fastness to laundering, and that resulting from color fastness to perspiration (acid and alkaline), as well as the level of color fastness to crocking (wet and dry) all stayed between relatively higher levels of 4 and 5. The fabric dyed also exhibited SPF 50+, an outstanding sun blocking performance. The deodorization rate was also excellent, rising from 97% to over 99% when the time elapsed increased from 30 minutes to 120 minutes. The fabric dyed also showed a 99.6% antimicrobial activity against staphylococcus aureus ATCC 6538, and a 71.4% antimicrobial activity against Klebsiella pneumoniae ATCC 4352. The aforementioned findings indicate that fabrics dyed with the extract of Salvia Plebia R. Br. contain the potential to be developed for use as health-related materials and fashion products that promote healing.

중국 전통 주머니에 나타난 조형적 특성

장현주 ( Hyun Joo Jang ),권수연 ( Su Yeon Kwon ) 한국의류산업학회 2010 한국의류산업학회지 Vol.12 No.6

황남대총 출토직물 연구

장현주(Hyun Joo Jang),권영숙(Young Suk Kwon) 한국복식학회 2012 服飾 Vol.62 No.7

Hwangnamdaechong Tomb (The 98th tomb in Hwangnam-dong), one of the royal tombs located around the area of royal tomb of King Michu in Hwangnam-dong, Gyeongju, is currently designated as Historic Site No. 40. It is assumed that Hwangnamdaechong Tomb is a royal tomb of the early 5th century. This study aims to examine the fabric relics excavated from Hwangdamdawchong Tomb and currently housed in Gyeongju National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage. The types of fabrics excavated from Hwangdamdawchong Tomb include plain silk, warp-faced compound woven silk, and hemp cloth. Most of these fabrics are adhered to metal products that became rusty. Plain silk found in Hwangnamdaechong Tomb can be divided into four types by its weaving method. Geum excavated from Hwangnamdaechong Tomb is typical Gyeong Geum that uses colored warp for its base and pattern. It is plain Gyeong Geum that the binding weft and warp is plain woven. Although there are a lot of Gyeong Geum fabrics whose colors are hard to define due to yellowing after long years, there are still many fabrics whose color such as purple, red, blue, and green can be identified. As literatures have shown that p cloth as well as silk were frequently woven during Silla dynasty, tremendous amount of hemp cloth was excavated. Most of the hemp cloth has S- twist in the warp and 8-12 seung degree of delicacy.

문화원형을 활용한 패션상품개발을 위한 조형성 분석-민화 효제문자도를 중심으로-

장현주 ( Jang Hyun-joo ),장애란 ( Jang Ae-ran ) 한국디자인트렌드학회 2013 한국디자인포럼 Vol.38 No.-

효제문자도 문화원형의 조형성을 분석한 결과를 활용하여 다양한 패션상품 개발을 시도하고자 선행연구로 효제문자도를 문화원형으로 채택하여 문헌조사와 박물관의 유물을 직접 고찰하는 방법을 통해 조형성을 분석했다. 효제문자도는 유교적 윤리관을 압축시킨 여덟 글자 즉 효, 제, 충, 신, 예, 의, 염, 치를 한 글자씩 나누어 각 폭에 관련설화에 나오는 상징물과 함께 8폭의 병풍으로 꾸민 것이다. 이것은 예스러운 서체로 자연스럽게 표현하고 각 문자의 상징물에 해당하는 문양을 그대로 문양화시킨 점, 특히 제주의 문자도에서는 제주의 자연을 폭넓게 반영하고 있다는 점에서 자연미를 발견할 수 있다. 문자를 강조하기 위해 문자내부 또는 외부에 문양을 세련되게 배치한 점, 제주도 문자도의 3,4단 구성법, 담채기법, 선묘 및 점묘법, 도식적 표현기법 등에서 세련미를 발견할 수 있다. 문자도의 문자를 직설적으로 표현한 점, 산수와 동식물을 상세하게 표현한 점 등에서 사실미를 발견할 수 있다. 그리고 음양이론에 근거를 둔 상생관계배색을 많이 사용한 점, 제주 및 관서지방에서는 무속신앙을 표현한 점 등에서 추상미를 발견할 수 있으며 이런 모든 미적특징은 서로 조화를 이루며 하나의 문자도에서 자연미와 세련미, 사실미와 추상미를 함께 느낄 수 있도록 구성되어 있는 점이 특징이다. 이상의 연구결과를 바탕으로 후속 연구에서 전통문화원형을 활용한 패션상품개발이 이루어진다면 현재 유통되고 있는 일반적인 문화상품과 차별화와 더불어 고급화, 글로벌화를 추구할 수 있을 것으로 기대된다. This study attempts to create various fashion items with the result of analysis on formativeness of Hyojae Munjado. For this study, Hyojae Munjado was chosen as the cultural original and advanced research was carried out to analyze its formativeness through the documentary survey and study of artifacts. This study found out that Hyojae Munjado has natural beauty. It is antique chirography and has each character`s symbol as patterns. Hyojae Munjado also has refined beauty. Patterns are placed inside and outside of a letter nicely to emphasize the letter. It uses light coloring technique and Jeju`s Munjado has three or four sections. Not only that, it has realistic beauty. It shows the characters directly, presents landscape, and portays animalsas as well as plants realistically. Moreover it has abstract beauty. Based on yin and yang theory, it arranges colors of win-win relations harmoniously. In Jeju and the Northwest of the Korean peninsula, Hyojae Munjado includes shamanism. The best feature of Hyojae Munjado is that its elements are in harmony with natural beauty, refined beauty, realistic beauty and abstract beauty.

간문맥 내 가스와 창자벽 공기증을 동반한 괴사장염

장현주 ( Hyun Joo Jang ),이진 ( Jin Lee ) 대한소화기학회 2006 대한소화기학회지 Vol.47 No.6

한국 전통 보문양을 응용한 패션 가방 디자인

장현주(Hyun-Joo Jang),장애란(Ah-Ran Jang) 한국의상디자인학회 2014 한국의상디자인학회지 Vol.16 No.3

천마총 출토 금직물 연구

장현주(Jang Hyun-Joo),권영숙(Kwon Young-Suk) 한복문화학회 2014 韓服文化 Vol.17 No.4

This study attempts to examine the weaving characteristics, properties, patterns and colors of 18 kinds of Geum-Silk Fabrics, compound woven fabrics that were mainly used as clothing materials for members of the aristocracy, including the kings of the time, among the fabrics currently housed in Gyeongju National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage, which were excavated from Chunmachong Tomb and date back to the 5th-6th century. The findings of this study show that the fabrics are garment plain weave fabrics manifesting the appearance of wrap rib weave and other properties similar to those of the Geum-Silk Fabrics from the Three Kingdoms Era in the previous studies. The unique difference from the results of the previous study is that, among the Geum-Silk Fabrics in this study, there are types on which the patterns and colors are distinctly identifiable. The types whose patterns and colors are distinctly identifiable are in such good condition that even their forms of colors and patterns can be distinctly identified, and the patterns with different colors from the background clearly reveal themselves, and therefore are thought to provide invaluable data for future studies on the patterns and colors of the ancient Korean Geum-Silk Fabrics. These types of Geum-Silk Fabrics have distinctly identifiable reddish dot patterns against a bluish background, which are thought to be geometric patterns similar to the patterns seen on the garments in Goguryeo Tomb murals, and they are thought to offer invaluable data in the studies on the patterns of garments of Three Kingdoms Era. The patterns of the Geum-Silk Fabrics investigated in this study, and the geometric patterns in particular, are expected to aid the development of novel designs through modern re-interpretation due to their unique figurative beauty.

개구리밥 추출액을 이용한 홀치기 천연염색 어린이 배자 디자인 개발

장현주(Jang Hyun-Joo) 한복문화학회 2016 韓服文化 Vol.19 No.1

The aim of this study was to develop fashion healing products through the application of the unique healing functions of fashion products, and to explore natural dye plants that are effective in the treatment of skin ailments that can be naturally grown at home. After testing the dyeing property through the use of various medicinal ingredients effective in easing atopy skin diseases, great duckweed, which has confirmed yellow and green yellow dyeing properties, was selected as dying material to apply variegated dying. Next, embroidery was used to design healing fashion vest (or baeja) products for children suffering from a compromised imm une system and/or skin diseases such as atopy. Six of cotton vests were developed that featured a lotus pattern, a symbol used to wish a child good health and happiness, expressed through variegated dying. In addition, this study is expected to help emphasize the positive image and friendliness of Korean tradition and develop value-added commercial products.