실크와 누노펠트 기법을 이용한 의상 소재의 텍스처 표현 연구

오연옥(Yean-Ok Oh),정명희(Myung-Hee Chung) 한국의상디자인학회 2007 한국의상디자인학회지 Vol.9 No.1

펠트(Felt)를 이용한 의상 디자인 연구

오연옥(Yean-Ok Oh) 한국의상디자인학회 2006 한국의상디자인학회지 Vol.8 No.1

그릴론사(Grilon Yarn)를 활용한 텍스타일 텍스처(Texture)에 관한 연구

오연옥(Yean Ok Oh) 한국디자인문화학회 2008 한국디자인문화학회지 Vol.14 No.4

The textile material itself has become a fundamental element in conveying fashion image in contemporary apparel design world. The rapidly evolving economy and industrial development had caused drastic changes in fashion styles, tastes and desires. People now demand more luxurious and diversified designs; and as a result, designers seek synergy effects integrating textile`s material features, colors, silhouettes and surface feelings. These sensible features receive more emphasis than ever. With these reasons, the textile designers need to enhance the textile`s high value-added features by developing new advanced materials and textile manufacturing technologies. Based on such trends in textile industry, this study aims to develop textile expression methodology by utilizing Grilon Yarn to provide basic information in creating highly competitive high value-added textiles. A Switzerland based company, EMS-GRILTECH, has produced Grilon(R)Fasern and Griltex(R) Schmelzklebstoffe that are widely used not only in textile and apparel industries but also in heavy industries. The grilon and griltex are produced with special raw materials and threads, and grilon yarn is now newly developed to be used for the general public for handcraft apparels. Previously, grilon was used only in commercial industries. This study first experimented two types of grilon threads as of "Grilon Faden" and "Raff Effektgarn" by stitching those on silk and going through heat processing. After that, among the processed materials, the most effective Raff Effecktgarn was selected to process check pattern and straight or cuved line pattern stitches on chiffon, habutae, organza and shantung silk. The finished materials will again go through heat processing to see various textile effects of grilon on silk when grilon yarn undergoes milling. This study will examine the visual images and surface textures on soft and light silk materials, and silks` degrees of milling will be compared. The importance in texture material development and researches are increasing in today`s apparel industry as to meet the demand of individual need. Within this mainstream, the grilon yarn is the most feasible solution for new textile material development. This study aims to propose new potential of creating a novel textile material that could meet the need of contemporary apparel industry and to lead the latest textile and apparel industry with the most competitive tool.

논문 : 양모(Wool)를 응용한 텍스츄어(Texture)의 조형 표현에 관한 연구

오연옥 ( Yean Ok Oh ) 한국기초조형학회 2003 기초조형학연구 Vol.4 No.2

울 스모크(Woolsmok)를 응용한 의상 소재에 관한 연구

오연옥(Yean-Ok Oh) 한국의상디자인학회 2003 한국의상디자인학회지 Vol.5 No.2

알카리 정련 처리에 의한 군마실크의 표면형태 변화

오연옥(Yean Ok Oh) 한국디자인문화학회 2013 한국디자인문화학회지 Vol.19 No.2

최근의 소비자의 패션 스타일의 자유로운 형식과 표현 방법으로 섬유업계는 다양한 변화와 가공개발에 노력을 기울이고 있다. 패션 상품에 있어서 디자인과 스타일도 중요하지만, 현대는 관능적 성질의 소재인 조형성, 표면감, 촉감 등이 소비자들의 개성을 나타내는 표현적 매개체의 중요한 부분으로 자리를 잡고 있다. 이러한 현 시점에 소재 연구에 더욱 집중한다면, 소재와 디자인 등 상품이 획일화되고 있는 패션 시장에, 상품의 심미적 가치를 높이고, 이미지를 차별화 할 수있을 것이다. 본 연구 목적은 소재의 조형성과 표현방법에 창의성을 갖은 군마실크(Gunma silk)를 알카리 정련(Alkaline degumming) 처리를 통해, 패션산업의 고부가가치 소재를 개발하여 정보제공 및 학문연구의 기초자료를 제공함에 있다. 연구방법으로는 국·내외의 관련 서적, 논문 등을 문헌 근거로 활용하였으며, 군마실크 이론적 형성 배경은 인테넷 사이트 중심으로 연구, 고찰하였다. 연구범위로는 군마실크, 알카리 정련과 그 방법에 대한 이론적 고찰과 함께 실험재료 및 방법으로 홀치기기법(tie dye techniques)을 통한 정련 등으로 실험한다. 실험물의 정련 후에 축융된 표면형태 변화를 분석하며, 군마실크의 색차, 강연도와 객관적 태인 종합태 측정한다. 본 연구의 내용과 결론으로서 군마실크를 활용한 소재 개발에 있어 실험의 장·단점을 논하고, 고부가가치성 의 경쟁력 있는 의류 소재로서의 활용범위와 가능성을 살펴본다. 군마실크는 개발의 응용범위가 다양하고, 자유로운 조형성을 표현할 수 있는 무한한 가능성이 갖은 소재이다. 이러한 소재를 현대감각에 맞는 감성소재로 창조시키고, 많은 실험과 연구가 행할 수있도록 기초 데이터를 제공하여 이 연구가 어패럴시장 활성화에 도움이 되기를 기대한다. As the free forms and modes of expression are emphasized in the recent fashion styles of consumers, the textile industry is attempting diverse variations and making efforts on processing techniques. As for fashion goods, their designs and styles are important, but the formativeness, surface feel and fabric materials as sensuous properties are today considered as more important elements of apparent media that represent the individuality of consumers. In this context, studies concentrating on the texture of fabric could contribute to enhancing the aesthetic value of goods and differentiating their brand images, in the fashion market where goods are becoming uniform in fabric and design. This study aimed to provide useful information for the development of high value-added materials in the fashion industry and basic data for future scientific studies with the alkaline degumming treatment of Gunma silk which is fabric of structural formation and creative in the way of expression. Methodologically, this study used foreign and local related literature including publications, articles and research papers as supporting references and explored relevant websites for theoretical data on the background in which the Gunma silk has been formed. The alkaline degumming of Gunma silk was discussed in theoretical terms and tested with tie-dye techniques and degumming. Modified textures obtained as a result of the test were compared in terms of color, stiffness, objective hand evaluation and change surface shape of the Gunma silk fabrics degummed. In conclusion, this study discussed the advantages and disadvantages of the test in using the Gunma silk for texture development and assessed the applicability and availability of the silk as a high value-added competitive apparel fabric material. Gunma silk has a wide range of applications for development, and thus it is thought to be such a material of infinite potential that we can employ it to present emotional fashion designs by expressing free-form textures. In this sense, the present study is expected to provide basic data for further experiments and studies so that they can be attempted to create sensible fabrics for contemporary styles, and the author hopes the results of this study will contribute to revitalizing the apparel market.

한옥의 이미지를 응용한 의상 연구

윤지혜(Ji Hye Yoon),오연옥(Yean Ok Oh) 한국디자인문화학회 2009 한국디자인문화학회지 Vol.15 No.4

21세기는 다양한 분야의 경계가 해체되고 통합되는 시대로 패션계에서는 건축과 패션의 결합을 통한 독특하고 창의적인 디자인이 나타나게 되었다. 건축과 패션은 인체를 위한 환경을 조성하고 볼륨을 창조한다는 것과 역사적인 시대상을 반영한다는 유사성으로 인해 아이디어제공에 있어 서로 영향을 주고받으며 각 분야에 새롭고 무한한 가능성을 제시해 주고 있다. 이에 본 연구에서는 이러한 가능성을 한국의 건축물인 한옥에서 이미지를 찾아 제시하고자 한다. 국가적 차원에서 한국적 이미지의 브랜드화를 위해 한옥의 보존과 개발이 이루어지는 시대적 흐름을 바탕으로, 한스타일의 패션을 요구하는 현시대의 소비자들이 착용할 수 있는 한옥의 이미지가 담긴 실용적·문화적 감성이 표현된 의상을 디자인하여 제시하였다. 본 연구에서는 건축과 패션의 연관성을 살펴보고, 작품제작의 구체적인 배경인 한옥의 조형성을 공간, 형태, 질감과 색채로 나누어 고찰하였다. 또한 작품제작에 있어 의상의 외형적 실루엣보다는 한국의 전통의 미를 느낄 수 있는 소재로 다양한 기법을 통하여 한옥의 이미지를 표현하였다. 즉, 기와의 곡선과 반복, 중첩의 이미지와 돌담의 거칠고 투박한 이미지, 한옥의 주된 소재인 나무의 자연스러운 재질감과 창의 기하학적인 선, 문의 개폐에 의한 연속성과 가변성의 이미지를 작품에 형상화하여 제작하였다. 본 연구는 의상 디자인의 무한한 가능성을 제시하고, 우리 전통문화의 브랜드화의 일환으로 새로운 스타일의 의상을 개발하고 상품화하여 일상생활 속에 한문화를 정착시키고 국제화하는 것이 궁극적인 목적이라 할 수 있겠다. 한옥의 이미지를 응용한 작품을 제작함으로써 인간과 공간이 공유할 수 있는 독특한 의상의 표현이 가능하였고, 인체를 위한 환경을 조성하는 재료의 다양성을 시도할 수 있었다. 또한 한옥의 이미지를 현대적 관점에서 재해석하여 현대 패션에 실용화함으로써 한브랜드화의 가능성을 제시하였다는데 가치가 있다고 볼 수 있다. The unique and creative designs have been appeared by the combination of architecture and fashion in the fashion industry in the 21st century when the boundaries between various fields have been dissolved and merged. Architecture and fashion have been suggesting innovative and endless potentials in each field by impacting each other in providing idea due to the similarity that both of them form the environment for human bodies, create the volume and reflect the historic phases of the times. Accordingly, this study tried to identify and proposes the images for such potentials in the Han Ok, the Korean architecture. On the basis of the trend of the times that the Han Ok has been preserved and developed for brandizing the Korean image on the national level, I designed and proposed the clothing expressing the practical and cultural emotion that contained the image of Han Ok, which the consumers in the modern age requesting the fashion of Han style(Korean style) could put on. Firstly, the relationship between architecture and fashion was examined and the formative art of Han Ok, the concrete background for the production of works, was examined in space, form, texture and color. Furthermore, the image of Han Ok was expressed by a variety of techniques using materials that enabled us to feel the traditional beauty of Korea rather than the external silhouette of clothing when producing the works. In other words, the round, repeated and overlapped images of roof tiles, rough and simple image of stone wall, natural feeling of texture of wood, the main material of Han Ok, geometric lines of window and the image of continuity and flexibility by opening and closing of door were embodied on the works. This study aimed to suggest the eternal potentials of fashion design and settle down and globalize the Han culture in our daily life by developing and commercializing the clothing of new style as a part of brandization of traditional Korean culture. The unique clothing that human and the space can share was enabled by creating the works applying the image of Han Ok and the diversity of materials forming the environment for the human beings was applied to the works. Furthermore, this study is meaningful in the aspect that it suggested the potentials of brandization of Han culture by reinterpreting the images of Han Ok by the modern points of view and making such images practically applied to the modern fashion.

패션 컬렉션에 나타난 기하학 패턴에 관한 연구

양유정 ( Yoo Jung Yang ),오연옥 ( Yean Ok Oh ),백은영 ( Eun Yung Baek ) 한국기초조형학회 2008 기초조형학연구 Vol.9 No.5

Fortuny 텍스타일에 나타난 시대적 양식의 특성 연구

안은정 ( Eun Jeoung An ),오연옥 ( Yean Ok Oh ) 한국기초조형학회 2009 기초조형학연구 Vol.10 No.5

울스모크(Woolsmok)기법에 의한 면직물에 응용된 질감표현 : 롤테크닉과 세탁기 작업에 의한 비교 Comparison of the Works Using the Rolltechnique and the Washing Machine

오연옥 한국의류산업학회 2004 한국의류산업학회지 Vol.6 No.2

The domestic textile industry is currently making an active effort to present high value-added materials that can respond immediately to the wants and needs of consumers sensitive to the of originality of design and emotionally appealing fashion materials. This paper attempted to present the creative development of materials in the contemporary clothing culture in which consumers' needs are individualized and differentiated and the cycle of life in fashion materials is getting shorter. To be specific, the paper presented the texture of peculiar expression to diverse cotton materials using the Woolsmok technique in the processing of felt. The chosen Merino wool was felted to 8 kinds of cotton with different density and structure. The touch, texture, visibility and complex susceptibilities of new materials were presented as different materials of cotton and wool were transformed into one material. In felting cotton fiber through wool, the trans-formation of diverse textures was presented and compared in the method using the washing machine in an attempt to enhance the efficiency of the traditional craft technique and work. This study proposed the possibility of placing the new material made up of cotton and wool beyond the range of functionality of each simple material, activating it as the peculiar material and expanding it to the range of its use as fashion material in the clothing industry. It is expected that this material will become competitive material at home and abroad by being activated as the clothing material of artistry, workability and marketability that can satisfy the tastes of consumers who call for high quality and diversification.