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화장품중 생약성분의 분석 (Ⅰ) 욕제중의 당귀 및 천궁추출액의 함량분석
이보섭 ( Lee Bo-seaub ),김진우 ( Kim Jin-woo ) 대한화장품학회 1990 대한화장품학회지 Vol.16 No.1
Angelica gigas extract and Cnidium officinale extract in Bath essence were determined by high performance liquid chromatography with a UV detector by use of Bondapak C-1B column. Decursin and Ligustilide were used as indicator ingredient for analysis of Angelica gig as extract and Cnidium officinale extract. Each indicator ingredient was isolated from each plant and purified using silver-nitrate treated silica column. Their structure were conformed with IR, NMR and HPLC. The recoveries of Angelica gigas extract and Cnidium officinale extract added to Bath essence sample were 96. 5-109.5% and 112-115%
THE SYNTHESIS, PHYSICAL PROPERTY, AND THE BIOLOGICAL ACTIVITY OF NOVEL NEO-CERAMIDES
( Duck Hee Kim ),( Bo Seaub Lee ),( Myeong Soo Koo ),( Hyun Jun Kim ),( Hae Kwang Lee ),( Moon Jae Choi ),( Ok Sub Lee ) 대한화장품학회 1998 대한화장품학회지 Vol.24 No.3
Ceramides are currently emerging as the major skin care ingredients due to their barrier properties in the stratum corneum of the human skin. Thus, major cosmetic companies have developed synthetic ceramide analogs for their own use. In this study, several ceramide mimic compounds,, new skin barrier lipids, were designed and synthesized, and their physical and biological properties were investigated to evaluate their skin care capability. Several structures were designed from the variation of hydrophobic alkyl chain and hydrophilic moiety by the use of molecular modeling software. The selected targets were synthesized, and their properties and activities were studied as the pure form, in the emulsion, or in the lamellar mixture containing cholesterol and fatty acid. Some compounds, such as 1,3-bis(N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-palmitoylamino)-2-hydroxypropane, enhanced the restoration of skin barrier damaged by SDS(sodium dodecyl sulfate), and by acetone treatment. The rate of restoration was comparable to that of natural ceramides. The synthesized compounds alleviated SDS induced skin irritation and facilitated lamellar phase liquid crystal formation. The treatment of 1,3-bis(N- (2-hydroxyethyl)-palmitoylamino)-2-hydroxypropane on the acetone damaged skin revealed that the compound promoted the recovery of intercellular lipid lamellar structure of stratum corneum layer. The replacement of palmitoyl groups of the compound with shorter alkyl chain gave lower emulsion viscosity and liquid crystal density, suggesting easier formulation and poorer barrier activity. Most of the synthesized compounds were non-irritable in various toxicological tests proving that they can be safely introduced to the skin care formulations.
DETERMINATION OF TRIETHANOLAMINE BY HIGH PERFORMANCE LIQUID CHROMATOGRAPHY WITH POST COLUMN REACTION
( Kim Jin-woo ),( Kim Seung-jung ),( Lee Bo-seaub ) 대한화장품학회 1988 대한화장품학회지 Vol.14 No.1
A new method for liquid chromatography with post column reaction is suggested for the separation and quantification of tertiary amines. A mixture of triethanolamine and N-ethyl diethanolamine was separated by a strong cation exchange column, followed by spectrophtometric detection of the blue colors generated from the reaction of each amine with the Folin-Ciocalteau reagent. The tertiary amines were properly separated when an eluent of pH 9.5 containing 0.5M sodium nitrate was used. Under this condition, calibration curve of triethanolamine in 2-10mg/ 100ml concentration range was attained. Good results were obtained when cream and shampoo preparations containing known amount of triethanolamine were analysed accoring to this method. In case the samples did not contain any other interfering reducing substances, the amine was quantitatively determined by the simple reaction of the samples with Folin-Ciocalteau reagent, and the subsequent spectrophotometric measurement.
The Synthesis and Sfety of 3-Aminopropyl dihydrogen phosphate, a New Anti-aging Agent
( Pyun Young Hoon ),( Ko Jae Sook ),( Cho Yoon Gi ),( Cheon Ji Min ),( Lee Bo Seaub ) 대한화장품학회 1996 대한화장품학회지 Vol.22 No.2
The novel synthesis of 3-aminopropyl dihydrogen phosphate(3-APPA; 3-Aminopropane phosphoric acid), and its applicability to the skin as a cosmetic raw material in terms of its efficacy and toxicology were presented. The phosphorylation of 3-amino-1 -propanol was carried out via cyclization into 6-mem- bered 2,6-oxaza-phosphoryl ring in the presence of phosphorous oxychloride and an organic base. The subsequent ring-opening hydrolysis and crystallization afforded the highly purified product in 90% isoloated yield. The method is much superior to the previous literature phosphorylation methods, as the procedure is simple and high- yielding. To confirm the efficacy of 3-APPA, several activities related to anti-aging capacity were measured. In-vitro human fibroblast, linear and 3-dimensional collagen matrix culture revealed that 3-APPA stimulated the proliferation of fibroblasts, and enhanced the synthesis of collagen, which showed 3-APPA’s potency for skin wrinkle reduction. The toxicological aspect of 3-APPA was also extensively examined. In vivo toxicity tests such as acute oral toxicity, eye irritation, human patch, and the repeat insult human patch test proved 3-APPA to be a safe material. Thus 3-APPA can be used as an effective anti-aging agent for various cosmetic formulations.