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洪那英 服飾文化學會 1999 服飾文化硏究 Vol.7 No.2
This study aimed to provide basic data for designing adaptive dresses for the disabled elderly. The procedure of this stydy consisted of 3 parts ; 1. the survey of 205 nursing-care providers who take care of the disabled elderly, 2. the market survey of dadptive dresses for the disabled elderly, 3. wearing-tests of those adaptive which are in the market. The results are as follows; 1. The most popular style for the disabled elderly in nursing facilities was non-collar, regular pajamas. And the most favorite design was a pajama's style which has no collar but has a round neckline, front opening and 7/10 length shirt's sleeves, with pants of an elastic band waist. And the most desirable fabric was a physiologically comfortable one. 2. The system of adaptive dress sizes for the Korean elderly consisted of 85, 95, 105㎝, while that for the Japanese elderly was divided into F/S/M/L/LL according to gender. 3. In the case of a pajama's style, it is necessary for the elderly women in the nursing facilities to have a more choice in smaller sizes, while the elderly men in the facilities need bigger sizes for their jump suits. When we tested the adaptive dresses for the elderly in the nursing facilities, in the case of a pajama's style, it was most difficult for us to pull pants over around the buttocks. In the case of jump suits, it was most difficult for us to dress and undress the adaptive dresses around the chest.
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홍나영 한국의류학회 2000 한국의류학회지 Vol.24 No.4
This study aims to investigate the changes in the Wedding costume for Paebak(Hyunkugorye) in Westernizing Korean society of the twentieth century. For this study, I analyzed the related literature for the first half of the twentieth century due to the lack of relevant photographs, while I used the method of content analysis of 116 photographs for the second half of the twentieth century. It is obvious that bridegroom and bride wore the same clothes for Hyunkugorye and the formal wedding ceremony in the early twentieth century. According to the analysis of photographs, wonsam was rather more widely used than hwalot as the bride's wedding costume in the late twentieth century. But there were many changes starting from the early 1970s. The changes were deviated from the traditional style and became more decorative and somewhat crude: that is, people began to embroider wonsam and the piping was added to the collar of danryung. All these changes resulted from the pursuit of commercial interests with the misunderstanding of and the indifference to traditional beauty, while Korean society had experienced the Japanese rule of Korea, the Korean War and the industrialization during the 1960s and 1970s. Therefore, to establish appropriate wedding culture and costume in Korea, it is important to educate people who get involved in wedding business for traditional wedding culture and clothes, because nowadays most of bridegrooms and brides borrow ceremonial costume for Hyunkugorye.
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홍나영,김지연 이화여자대학교 생활환경대학 인간생활환경연구소 2005 인간생활환경연구소 논집 Vol.- No.3
The purpose of this study is to research the everyday costumes of the upper class in the late Joseon period. The 18th century was the main period that the tradition of the Korean costumes was established. The results of the study were as the following. First, men's coats, which were called po, had many varieties, such as dopo, changui and joongchimak. Hats were also developed along with coats. Men wore gat when they went outside, and wore tanggeon, jeongiagwan, chungieonggwan, or dongpagwan when they were at home. Second, women's clothes were a combination of a short and tight jacket called jeogori, and a logn, voluminous skirt called chima. Women tended to have their hairstyles done with wigs. Also, they had to werar veils to cover their faces due to the influences of Confucianism. During the early times of the Joseon Dynasty, women used to werar jang-ot as a coat. However, curing the late times of the Joseon Dynasty, jang-ot changed as a type of a veil. During that time, the custom of covering the women's heds with a veil was more emphasized than the early Joseon period. Third, th war between Korea and Japan(Imjinwaeran, 1952~1598) brought many changes in the styles of the Korean costumes. Due to the changes of social statuses and of the society, some farmers or merchants tried to initate costumes of the upper class. They wore the dress items of the upper class, or used high quality silk for their clothing. As a result, the fashion of the upper class began to affect the lower class, and was simultaneously influenced by the style of the lower class. The fashion of the 18th century emphasized on showing the tight upper bodylines. Also, people began to expose parts of their underwear through the slits of their clothing.
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조선중엽 출토복식에 관한 연구 : 이황 묘 출토 첩리와 창의류를 중심으로 Centering Around Chopri and Changeuis From Lee Hwang's Tomb
홍나영 한국의류학회 1996 한국의류학회지 Vol.20 No.3
This study tries to understand the characteristics of a man's clothes from the late 17th century to the early 18th century, held by the Ewha Womans University Museum. The author adopted the Assy CAD, an apparel CAD system developed by Assysit Company of Germany, in measuring clothes which is intended to solve the problems raised in the previous measurement of clothes, as well as in the making of patterns. The author used tracing paper to make copies of the curved parts, put them into the computer by digitiger, and made the patterns for more accurate restoration. Furthermore, the author compared Lee Hwang's with the contents of the related literature and excavated apparel from other tombs. As a result, Chopri among Lee Hwang's clothes, retained the typical characteristics of the mid-Chosun men's fashion in its ratio of bodice to skirt, form of sleeves, and size of breastties for fastening which appeared in the 17th century. Daechangeui and Jungchimak also were distinctive for Changot and the width of sleeves since the 17th century and were in wide use not only as the daily clothes but also as the shroud. These changes were brought about from the two wars which emphasized prestige and beauty of the clothes rather than their functions. As a result, Changeuis were used more widely, while Chopri which was used as the underwear of officials' uniform, was in decline.
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홍나영,오선희 이화여자대학교 생활환경대학 인간생활환경연구소 2007 인간생활환경연구소 논집 Vol.- No.5
The purpose of this study is to analyze usage of women's pinyo in Joseon period. There were two types of hair pins(pinyo and chignon ornament) in Joseon period, and the shape of korean pinyo was rectilinear cross bar. Pinyo that was widely used in daily life and various ceremonies was used differently according to the wearer's class or situations of wearing. Court pinyo was made of various splendid materials like jade, gold, silver, enamel, and all kinds of motifs were used. In daily life, pinyo of dragons, ume flowers with bamboos, peony blossoms were mainly used matched with seasons. At ceremonies, a phoenix motif was most important and motifs of dragons, magnolia blossoms, orchid flowers, ume flowers with bamboos were used. Especially at marriages, pinyo ornaments were very splendid, and pinyo that is put vertically was used in common at every hair types. But, the scale and the diversity were different in detail at each hair types. At funerals, bamboo pinyo made of enamel and plain pinyo made of horns of water buffalo were used. In general society, pinyo of noble women was similar with court pinyo in its materials and motifs. But folk women used pinyo made of nickle, horns of water buffalo, or wood with no motifs. Dragon or phoenix pinyo were regulated regardless of noble or folk, so general women could wear dragon or phoenix pinyo only at marriages or court ceremonies. Other kinds of pinyo like enamel bamboo pinyo were also used at marriages, and ways of ornaments were diverse according to regions and economic states. At funerals, wood pinyo was used.
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