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      • KCI등재

        연구논문 : Walter Van Beirendonck 디자인에 나타난 미학

        소형 ( So Hyoung Park ),은혁 ( Eun Hyuk Yim ) 한국의류학회 2015 한국의류학회지 Vol.39 No.3

        Walter Van Beirendonck expresses a fairy tale world of perverted sexual desire of sadism and masochism, violence, and aggressiveness that breaks from a transient one-time concept as is an essential element of fashion. This study classifies the aesthetic characteristic shown on the design of Walter Van Beirendonck and analyzes the intent of his symbolism and meaning. The attempt has a meaning in exploring a new directionality of fashion by conveying a critical message to this end, contemporary fashion breaks down boundaries with artistic genre and connects a problematic consciousness that exists in life with fashion. The results of study on the aesthetic characteristics of Walter Van Beirendonck are as follows. First, Beirendonck emphasized an interpersonal image about body by giving a question through the deconstruction of image on a perfect body into race, age, and body based on body modification. Second, fetishism appeared as a consciousness that human identity and character can be changed by connecting a fetish element of sexual identity, and sadism and masochism with fashion``s imagination. Third, infantilism as an amusement expression of the form metaphorically satirized life of modern people. Fourth, makeup shown on performance or festival of an African tribe was used in the way of mixture or reuse for ethnography to obtain inspiration from ethnography. Fifth, pop art combined a popular culture code as amusement through mass production and mass media. Aesthetics of Beirendonck do not have norm and are bold in using form, color, pattern, print, and styling because Beirendonck reinterpreted critical attitudes about essential problems that human life entails into a motif of his symbolic meaning in amusement. In regards to his design aesthetics, Beirendonck expanded fashion to the scope of Gesamtkunstwerk in a consistent and continued theme combined with philosophical creativity and differentiated from other fashion designers.

      • KCI등재

        에디 슬리먼 디자인의 크로스 섹슈얼 분석

        소형(Park, So Hyoung),은혁(Yim, Eun Hyuk) 한국디자인문화학회 2017 한국디자인문화학회지 Vol.23 No.3

        본 연구의 목적은 21세기 혁신적인 새로운 남성성을 제시하여 그 개념을 확장시킨 에디 슬리먼의 패션디자인 사례를 통해 크로스 섹슈얼의 특성을 밝히는데 있다. 연구 방법으로는 문헌 및 사례연구로 크로스 섹슈얼의 개념을 파악하고 현대 남성패션의 아이콘이자 크리에이티브 디렉터인 에디 슬리먼 디자인의 특성 및 변화를 고찰한다. 연구 범위는 에디 슬리먼이 크리에이티브 디렉터로 활동한 1996년부터 2016년까지를 기준으로 분석하였다. 연구의 내용은 첫째, 에디슬리먼의 디자인 커리어를 살펴보고, 크로스 섹슈얼에 대한 고찰을 바탕으로 패션에 나타난 크로스 섹슈얼 남성복의 최근 경향을 분석하였다. 둘째, 이러한 이론적 현상을 배경으로 에디 슬리먼의 크로스 섹슈얼의 특징을 입생 로랑 시절, 디올 옴므 시절, 프리랜서 시절, 생 로랑 시절로 구분하고 각각의 크로스 섹슈얼에 대한 사례를 제시하였다. 에디 슬리먼의 크로스 섹슈얼을 위의 네 가지의 유형으로 분석한 결과는 다음과 같다. 이브 생 로랑 시절에 나타난 디자인 특성은 남성성과 여성성을 혼합한 양성적 이미지, 슬림한 핏, 전형적인 여성복 소재로 부드럽고 슬림한 남성성을 제시하였다. 디올 옴므 시절에서는 음악과 패션이 조합된 스타일인 글램 록 스타일을 새롭게 해석하였다. 곡선적인 실루엣, 허리선을 강조하는 액세서리, 여성의 전유물인 스커트 아이템을 등장시켰으며, 전체적으로 스키니 룩을 대변하는 슬림한 실루엣인 스키니즘으로 미소년의 이미지를 강조하였다. 프리랜서 시절에는 포토그래퍼로 활동하며 록 뮤직을 모티브로한 패션 이미지를 선보였고, 하위문화를 상징하는 스트리트 패션으로 슬림한 핏의 중석적 이미지를 사진으로 구현해냈다. 생로랑 시절의 디자인 특성은 하위문화를 배경으로 록 시크의 감성이 드러나는 글램 룩과 스키니 룩의 슬림한 실루엣과 모토 부츠, 스카프, 페도라 등의 중성적 아이템을 화려한 글리터리 소재와 컬러로 믹스해 크로스 섹슈얼의 이미지를 강조하였다. 이와 같이 에디 슬리먼은 하위문화, 록 뮤직, 성을 결합해 슬림하고 지적인 실루엣으로 남성성의 기준을 변화시켰으며, 크로스 섹슈얼의 감성을 담은 사진 이미지를 직접 제작하고 총괄함으로써 패션에 뉴미디어를 정립하는 것에도 기여했다. 또한 젊은 세대를 규정하는 진정한 현대적 이미지의 남성성을 바탕으로 스트리트 스타일을 하이패션으로 변모시킴으로써 패러다임의 변화를 창조했을 뿐만 아니라 남성성 및 남성의 섹슈얼리티에서 크로스 섹슈얼이라는 새로운 기준을 확립하였다. This study aims to figure out the characteristics of cross sexual from the cases of design of Hedi Slimane who extended the concept of it suggesting a new and innovative manhood of 21st century. As the method of our study, we will try to figure out the concept of cross sexual through the numerous texts and the studies of cases and analyze the characteristics and change of men’s wear from the design of Hedi Slimane who is the icon of men’s wear and the creative director. As the scope of study, at first, we mainly focused our study and analysis on the period from 1996 through 2016, in which Hedi Slimane acted as a creative director. Secondly, in the base of this theoretical phenomenon, we classified the characteristics of Hedi Slimane’s cross sexual with the era of Yves Saint Laurent, era of Dior Homme, era of freelancer and the era of Saint Laurent and suggested the cases of cross sexual of each era. The result that we analyzed cross sexual of Hedi Slimane in four types of era, of Yves Saint Laurent, Dior Homme, freelancer and Saint Laurent, is as follows. As the nature of design appearing in the era of Yves Saint Laurent, he showed the manhood of the image of bisexuality mixed with masculinity and femininity, slim fit, and the manhood of soft and slim look using the typical fabric for woman. In the era of Dior Homme, he introduced the style of glam lock, in which the music and the fashion are harmoniously mixed, and through curve silhouette and new skirt item and skinny look which emphasizes the line of waist with slim silhouette, he accentuated the image of handsome boy. As the character of the era of freelancer, he presented the fashion image using rock’n’roll music as his motive as a photographer and realized the neutral image with slim fit and street fashion of showing a culture of low class. As the character of design of the era of Saint Laurent, he emphasized the manly image of cross sexual utilizing rock music which lively reveals the emotion of rock chic, glam look, skinny look, slimly silhouette, culture of low class, neural accessories and luxurious materials. Like this, Hedi Slimane changed the basis of manhood with skinnism as of slimly and intellectual image crossing rock music, low class culture and sexuality each other and extended the realm of masculinity. Furthermore, using the photos, and directly and comprehensively making the image of expressing the cross sexual sensitivity, he even greatly contributed to establishing new media to the fashion. He interpreted the popular culture in integral and synthetic respect expressing his inspiration on slimly and neutral cross sexuality using the image and music icon. Changing a street style to a high fashion on the base of the identity about the concept of cross sexual, which is the true contemporary image of manhood of defining a young generation, he created the change of paradigm and also established a new basis, such of cross sexual, in the sexuality of man and manhood.

      • KCI등재

        커뮤니케이션 플랫폼에 따른 패션 내러티브 분석: 루이비통을 중심으로

        소형,은혁 복식문화학회 2018 服飾文化硏究 Vol.26 No.6

        The objective of this study was to evaluate the characteristics of the fashion narrative from the commercial and artistic viewpoints by identifying and evaluating the attributes of the fashion narrative and analyzing the fashion narrative focusing on various cases according to fashion media. Louis Vuitton, a brand of the Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy (LVMH) group that operates the entire fashion community platform, is recognized as an influential luxury company with enormous capital and capabilities. This study targeted Louis Vuitton to examine the fashion narrative. The common results of Louis Vuitton’s fashion narrative according to the communication platform are as follows. First, it emphasizes well-designed craftsmanship and artistry to convey the value and meaning of the brand. Second, it expresses the lifestyle of the bourgeoisie using traveling for finding life purpose, nature, and freedom as common denominators. Louis Vuitton connects, shares, and engages with customers by crossing the communication platform and trying multi-sensory changes based on the fashion narrative of the ‘artification’ message encompassing craftsmanship, innovation, and travel. The fashion narrative of Louis Vuitton applies tools (e.g., design, direction, stage, and props) differently according to the nature of media. In other words, the fashion narrative in the form of transmedia storytelling is a marketing communication strategy that indicates the representation means and direction of a brand’s goals by remediating the brand narrative in various ways through the communication platform.

      • 김치의 숙성기간 연장방법에 관한 연구

        朴美貞,林沼亨,朴明蘭,趙賢順,李信浩 효성여자대학교 자연대학 1988 自然大論叢 Vol.1 No.-

        김치의 숙성기간 연장에 관한 실험을 요약한 결과는 다음과 같다. 1. 절임배추에 컴프리를 첨가한 결과 숙성중 산생성은 억제되고 총 균수와 유산균수는 증가하였으며 그람음성균의 성장은 억제되었다. 2. 김치제조시 컴프리의 이용 가능성을 검토한 결과 산생성을 억제되었으나 유산균의 생육은 증진되는 경향을 나타내었다. 3. 김치제조시 컴프리를 약3% 첨가할 경우 25℃에서 숙성기간은 약 15시간 지연 시킬 수 있는 것으로 사료되었다. 4. 김치에서 분리동정한 L. brevis, L. fermentum, P. cerevisiae의 성장은 컴프리의 첨가에 의해 증진 되었으며 김치숙성 관련 미생물중 주종을 이루는 L. plantarum, L. brevis의 성장이 뚜렷히 증진되었다. 5. 컴프리를 첨가하여 김치를 제조할 경우 숙성기간의 연장효과와 더불어 유산균이 보다 많이 함유된 김치의 제조가 가능할 것으로 사료되었다.

      • SCIESCOPUSKCI등재

        녹용 추출물에 의한 MC3T3세포의 분화 촉진

        유윤정,이현정,임소형,강정화,이은희,옥승호,최봉규,전길자,Yoo, Yun-Jung,Lee, Hyun-Jung,Lim, So-hyung,Kang, Jung-Hwa,Lee, Eun-Hui,Ohk, Seung-Ho,Choi, Bong-Kyu,Jhon, Gil-Ja 대한치주과학회 2000 Journal of Periodontal & Implant Science Vol.30 No.4

        Deer antler has been widely prescribed in Chinese and Korean pharmacology. Although there have been several reports concerning the effects of deer antler, such as anti-aging action, anti-inflammatory activity, antifungal action and regulatory activity of the level of glucose, the effect on bone has not determined yet. The purpose of this study was to examine the effect of deer antler on osteoblast differentiation. Hexane extract(CN-H) and chloroform extract(CN-C) were acquired from deer antler(Cervus nippon) and MC3T3-E1 pre-osteoblasts were cultured in the presence or absence of each extract. Osteoblast differentiation was estimated with the formation of mineralized nodules and the mRNA expression of alkaline phosphatase(ALP), osteocalcin(OC) and bone sialoprotein(BSP) which are markers of osteoblast differentiation. Non-treated group did not show mineralized nodule. CN-C or CN-H-treated group showed minerlaized nodules in 16 days. In northern blot analysis, CN-C or CN-H-treated group showed the elevated expression of ALP, BSP and OC in 16 days. These results suggest the possibility to develop deer antler as a bone regenerative agent in periodontal therapy by showing the stimulating activity of deer antler on differentiation of osteoblast.

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