조선시대 여자 전통 속옷의 현대 잠옷 실용화를 위한 실태조사

문광희(Moon. Kwang-Hee),문영옥(Moon. Myeng-Ok),김경화(Kim. Kyung-Hwa),김태영(Kim. Tae-Young) 한복문화학회 2002 韓服文化 Vol.5 No.1

To design nightclothes based on Korean traditional underwear. this study surveyed and analyzed current taste In nightclothes. And we investigated and analyzed both awareness and taste in the presentation of Korean traditional underwear.<br/> Customers preferred cotton. pastel colors and simple style. Women who live with children and parents want to wear a modest style of nightclothes. When we design nightclothes based on Korean traditional underwear. we should use the lines and<br/> materials of Korean traditional underwear. We have to emphasize womanly beauty and active function.<br/>

『영화물언』 에 나타난 복식자료 연구

문광희(Kwang Hee Moon) 한국복식학회 1999 服飾 Vol.43 No.-

This paper is a study on the expression of Clothing and Textiles recorded in 『Eigamonokatary(榮花物語)』, focus on Color and Dying. 『Eigamonokatary』 is a novel described the life style of Royal Court from 883 till 1107. The discoveries of this paper were as follows. 1. The materials of colors and dyeing which are described in this book reflect the features of the age well. We can assume that the point of its chic might rest on colors and dyeing than design or pattern. 2. Since they enjoyed wearing lots of clothes which are in the same design but in different colors with the underwear. When color coordinate was fashioned, we call them Kasanenoirome(襲色目). This type of dressing was in vogue in the age of Heian(平安), when there were several devices of showing chic in dressing. 3. The color of clothes at that time, might represent one`s official position, the black the highest class, following the purple, the red, and the blue or green. The black color was made from the purple or blue. The Japanese Emperor would wear reddish yellow or blue clothes according to the nature of his office work. 4. Some of Japanese fashion might be influenced by Korean styles in the respects of coordinating colors and adjusting Buddhist fashion, etc. It is required that the further studies of comparing Korean fashion styles with Japanese ones should be deepened.

조선 후기 甲胄 및 具軍服에 관한 연구-부산 忠烈祠 소장 유물을 중심으로-

문광희(Moon Kwang-Hee) 한복문화학회 2004 韓服文化 Vol.7 No.1

This study is a research on the armor suits and military uniforms in the late of Chosun dynasty. focus on the remains of Chungyeolsa in Susan. The remains are 8 kinds of armors. 3 helmets. 2 military uniforms and some others. The results of this study are as follows;<br/> The armor of the late of Chosun Dynasty was made by wool fabrics. and decorated with fur at the tip of sleeves. front and hem-line. with nail-head on the bodies and with dragon-iron on the shoulders. The helmet of this period was composed with toP. body. sunshade and draperies at the back side. The symbols of pattern on the helmet were clear judgment, bravery and lucky. The armor suits of this style was worn until late of 17C. Since the gun has been used in war. military uniformwas more popular instead of armor and helmet. The military uniform was used for a short time until the western military uniform was imoorted.<br/> Some records about who has been used these Armors of Chungyeolsa were wrong. fts a result of this study. one red thing(armor-1) is the remain of Dadechumsa and the others are the things of Dongnaebusa.<br/>

환두대도(環頭大刀)에 나타난 용문(龍文)을 응용한 넥타이디자인 개발

문광희(Moon Kwang-Hee) 한복문화학회 2011 韓服文化 Vol.14 No.1

This is a study on the neck-tie design utilizing the dragon pattern on Sword with the round pommel of Korea. The purpose of this study is to develop and globalize the excellence of Korea traditional culture through the neck-tie design based on Korean traditional patterns. The study results are as follows. The types of dragon patterns on sword with round pommel of Three-Countries, were three styles such as single dragon head, double dragon head and one dragon/one phoenix. In this study, Four kinds of the dragon pattern were used and product five style neck-tie design. So fifteen art works were made. Among them, five kinds of neck-tie were printed using a DTP(Digital Textile Printing) method. Each design concept and process are as follows. Sample-1 : Design 1-a, The design motif is dragon and phoenix. Pattern was arranged vertically with brown dot on the pink bottom. Sample-2 : Design 2-c, The design motif is a single dragon inside of the round pommel of Muryeong royal tomb(무녕왕릉). One pattern is made four single dragon and arranged four direction on the red bottom. The edge of the tie was no pattern and bottom red color was variated. Sample-3 : Design 3-b, Design motif is a single dragon with the round pommel of Muryeong royal tomb. A yellow pattern was arranged on the dark gray of monochrome. Sample-4 : Design 4-c, The design motif is two dragons inside of the round pommel of the Three Kingdoms, The pattern was arranged two direction on the purple bottom with a floral pattern. Sample-5 : Design 5-a, The design motif is a double dragon with round pommel of Shilla Kingdom. The pattern was arranged diagonally with dot on the dark green bottom.

한국 전통복식 교육매체로서 영상물의 활용-Ⅱ

문광희(Moon Kwang-Hee),윤혜경(Yoon Hae-Gyung) 한복문화학회 2008 韓服文化 Vol.11 No.2

The purpose of this study is to suggest the data for the lecture of Korean traditional costume and application to the development of Korean costume culture contents through the movie still of Korean movie film which is based on the Joseon Dynasty. This study was researched six, seven and eight movies of each in the early, middle, and late stage of the Joseon Dynasty. The results are as follows. On the costume for men, the items were selected well according to the role. But in the case of King, the height of crown, Iksungwon(익선관) for common costume(상복), neck-line shape of Danryung(단령), pattern and color of the Robe were needed to research more. Especially, in the case of government official, the color of the robe was different according to the level and there was no decoration of the crown. On the costume for women, especially in case of queen, there were some items which was not researched enough. In Jugori(저고리), according to the each period, the length and width of top, the shape of sleeve, collar and the front were not different. The late of Joseon dynasty was described correctively as compared with early and middle stage. In the case of Gisaeng(기생), her costume explained stronger the station in life than the shape according to period. When we use the medias for the education, the things producted lately is more helpful, because those has been more researched in clothing. When we use the movie or other media for the Korean costume education, the teacher must have the wide knowledge of the Korean costume in order to compare with them in detail.

여름철 에너지 절약을 위한 한국문화유산 활용의 비즈니스용 셔츠 개발에 관한 연구

문광희(Moon Kwang-Hee),김경화(Kim Kyung-Hwa) 한복문화학회 2014 韓服文化 Vol.17 No.1

The purpose of this study is to develop the shirts for business attire based on Korean heritage while saving energy in the summer. The results of this study are as follow: 1. The new style of dress shirts that aid in saving energy is necessary due to global warming. One of the methods to solve this problem is to wear shirts that feel cool and appear professional without wearing jacket and neck-tie. The countries with warm climates, such as Indonesia and Hawaii, often print traditional images of nature and patterns motifs on shirts. 2. Japan and Korea developed clothes that help save energy. In Japan, Cool-biz program and Super Cool-biz have begun 2005 and 2011 respectively. For instance, Cool-biz was developed to wear more simple and more comfortable such as Kariyusi. In Korea, Cool-Mapsi was promoted in 2009, and Whidrott in 2012. Currently, many companies participate in this program and produce shirts with the same purpose. 3. Korean heritage in this study include the remains and artifacts from the ancient times, expressly paintings, sculpture, pottery etc., that concerns the lifestyle of the Korean people. 4. The trend of business wear has changed from traditional suit and tie to casual style that puts emphasis on convenience and simplicity. The trend of 2014 for business wear is projected to be young and casual style with liberal design while the colors and patterns of the shirts are projected to be fancy and colorful. 5. In Han Fashion Project Team, “Whidrott based on Korean cultural heritage” was developed in 2012. The description of han fashion’s shirts is as follows: The materials are ‘P/C 70/30, 85g/15gYd’ and ‘P/L 115g/Yd’, the characteristics of these materials are cool treatment and quick-drying. The patterns are based on Korea’s nature and cultural heritage. Ujet MC2-P DTP(Digital Textile Printer) was used to dye textile. The brand name is, and the marketing strategy was developed based on the Korean culture and public policy.

한(韓)패션 사업의 전개와 글로벌화 전략: 전통문화유산의 국가이미지 제품화 사례

문광희 ( Kwang Hee Moon ) 한국동양예술학회 2012 동양예술 Vol.20 No.-

韓패션 사업이란, 한국문화유산 속에 내재된 예술적 가치와 이야기꺼리, 정신적 가치를 현대의 패션제품에 적용시켜 제품을 개발하고, 세계시장에 진출시켜 한국의 브랜드 가치를 제고하는 사업으로, 한국의 문화유산 속에서 심미성을 발굴하고, 이를 현대의 트렌드에 맞추어 재해석하여 제품을 직접 생산하고, 브랜딩과 마케팅을 통해 시장경쟁에 진출하는 과정을 포함하고 있다. 이 사업은 2007년 지식경제부 RIS 지원사업의 일환으로 시작되었으며, 지난 6년간 인테리어제품, 의류제품, 생활패션제품 등 20여종의 아이템, 200여점을 개발하였으나 본 연구에서는 12종 50여점을 대상으로 한다. 대표적인 개발제품으로는 카펫을 중심으로 한 인테리어제품, 신생아복, 아동복, 남녀의상, 그리고 목욕가운 등의 의류제품, 우산, 타월수건, 넥타이, 스카프, 모자 등 생활패션제품 등이며, 문양으로 다양한 측면에서의 한국문화유산을 활용하였다. 제품의 가치창출과 세계시장으로의 진출을 위해서 융합마케팅을 전략적으로 개발하였고, 본 연구에서는 환경과 정책 그리고 문화와 융합하는 사례를 제시하였다. 향후 한국문화유산 활용의 패션제품이 국내외 시장에서 명품으로 자리매김하기 위해서는 심도 있는 전문가 구성, 시간의 투자, 한국인의 감성과 정신적 자산을 함축시켜 표출할 수 있는 디자인 개발, 정부기관의 지속적인 지원 등이 필요하다고 하겠다. Han Fashion project is intended to enhance Korea’s national brand in the global market by applying Korea’s national symbols and traditional images to modern fashion products. This is very comprehensive processes ranging from identifying uniqueness in Korea’s cultural heritage, re-interpreting them for modern uses, developing and producing the products, and to dealing with severe market competition through systematic branding and marketing activities. The project has been pursued as industry-university consortium since 2007, supported by Ministry of Knowledge Economy``s Regional Innovation System, a regional economy revival project. The products used in this study are 12 items, 50 kinds. Most successful cases include carpets, Garments for baby, young casual, men and women, and fashion accessories. The carpets patterned after Korean alphabets, developed first time by the Consortium, were installed in Los Angeles Korean Cultural Center (2009) and Beijing Korean Cultural Service (2011). Those carpets proved very ideal for overseas Korean government agencies in demonstrating Korean cultural characteristics. About the garments, important Factors are Fabrics and patterns. They are different according to the items. The fashion accessories are designed with Korean alphabets and traditional pattern which loved by many people for a long time. About Marketing, the products designed by Han-Fashion, it is better to have collaboration with other factors, for instance, environment, policy from government and culture etc.. Year after year, the Consortium is approaching to its goal of establishing Korea``s world-class brand in global fashion market.

『침초자』 의 복식자료 연구

문광희(Kwang Hee Moon) 한국복식학회 1996 服飾 Vol.28 No.-

This paper is a study on the expression of Clothing and Textiles recorded in 「Makuranosorsi(材草子)」. This book was written by a Japanese servant in the Royal Court about the year 1000. In this book, many kinds of clothing ornament, color and materials were mentioned. The discoveries of this paper were as follows. 1. There were 85 different kinds of name. In detail, there were 46 Clothing and Accessories 32 Colors, 11 Materials, Patterns, the method of Dyeing. 2. All the Clothing and Textiles in 「Makuranosorsi」were reflections of the reality of that time. 3. From ancient times, Japanese Costume was much influenced by Korea. But around the 7th century the influence increased. 4. Almost all Clothing and Accessories used in Japan in the 10th century had been previosly used in neighboring countries, Korea and China. But after they were imported to Japan, some of them were changed to Japanes hybrids, especially in name and shape. 5. In Japan, Clothing Colors were used in various ways, sometimes colors coordinated by over lapping dress and othertimes the colors were weaved together. Namely the width and length of these colorful fibres are also significant meaning. This means that the Japanese was much more interested in color than other countries, and this also proves Clothing Colors were very developed in Japan by the 10th century. 6. The Materials discovered in this book were almost all silk. This is the reason why 「Makuranosorsi」was the expression of the Royal Court.

「영화물어」 에 나타난 복식자료 연구

문광희(Kwang Hee Moon) 한국복식학회 1997 服飾 Vol.35 No.-

This paper is a study on the expression of Clothing and Textiles recorded in 『Eigamonokatary(榮花物語)』. This book is a novel described the Royal Court from 883 till 1107. In this book, many kinds of Garments, Oranments, Colors and Materials were mentioned. But in this paper, 69 kinds of Garments and Ornaments were reseched, and the rest will be reported in the next paper. The discoveries of this paper were as follows. 1. All the things of this book were reflections of the reality in Heian(平安) period. 2. The main styling of that period was a little bit soft but the straight silhouette were fashioned. In that time, Clothing had a special meaning and the manner for a fashion was very important. 3. In the female garments, Karakoromo(唐衣裳) were developed many kinds of patterns by dyeing method, especially the Surizome(擢梁) was fashioned very much. 4. there were many kinds of gray tone like as clerical robe and mouning dress. This was the effection of Buddism style. 5. The decoration of Fablics and garments were usualized, for instance, smooding and luster by beating and starch, sewing a piece of gold silver and shell, Nakabe(中部) and knot bend. Shawl(領巾), Yumaki(湯卷) and Kosizasi(腰差) was a charming point of that time. 6. hair decoration, shose, parasol, rain coat etc. were developed and used frequently.

한국의 전통복색에 관한 문헌적 연구Ⅰ-상고시대부터 고려시대까지-

문광희(Moon Kwang-Hee),문정선(Moon Jung-Sun) 한복문화학회 1998 韓服文化 Vol.1 No.2

The aim of this study is to illuminate the color and style of the official dress in Korea from the age of tribal countries to the one of Goryeo Dynasty on the basis of the ancient materials.<br/> The color of clothes in the tribal countries can be basically classified as white and Jeung- Soo-Keum-Kye style in case of gOing out. As the blue color and figuring style were prohibited in that age, we can infer that the white clothes without figures would be common in the age. In the age of Three Kingdoms when each institution and central government organization began to be established and fixed, the clothing colors initiated to be classified arding to the ranking of the officials, crown and belt. The color of King adopted Oh-Chae(五彩)ㆍBaek(白)ㆍJah(紫)ㆍ Chung(靑)ㆍSoh(素)ㆍOh(烏).<br/> Jeok-Hwang(赤黃). The color of the Noble person embraced Jah . Soh, Hwang; the colors of Crown and belt were<br/> parted six colors; the color of official dress Jah(紫) . Bih(緋) . Nock(綠) ; the color of casual clothes Soh. Therfore the basic color of clothes in the age of Three Kingdoms was Oh-Bang-Saek(五方色) and Jah(紫) on official dress represented the highest ranking.<br/> The color and style of the official dress in Goryeo Dynasty(高麗) followed that of Silla Dynasty(新羅) at the beginning. But owing to the change of the political situation of the neighboring countires, Goryeo Dynasty accepted the foreign culture. Consequently. the clothing color of her was divided minutely; the clothing color of King was Jah-Hwang(赤黃) . Sahng(湘) .<br/> Jah . Hyun(玄) . Hoon(燻) . Hong-Hwang(紅黃) . Jah- Hwang' Chi-Hwang(治黃) . Hwang' Ji-Hwang(之黃) . Kahng () . Hong(紅) . Chung; the color of official dress Jah . Dan(丹) . Bi(緋) . Cho . Nock . Heuk(黑) . Chung; the color of casual clothes Baek' Chi. Gahm-Rahm . Dahm- Hwang (淡黃) . Boon-Hong(粉紅)<br/> From Gcryeo Danasty, Hwang which began to be fixed as the color of King was divided diversely. Subjects and the people, however. could not use Hwang as their clothing color.<br/>