삼국시대 품급별 복색(服色)제도의 제정시기에 관한 연구

권준희(Kweon. Jun-Hee) 한복문화학회 2002 韓服文化 Vol.5 No.1

This study is about the establishing time of a dress color system according to the social position in the period of the Three States. According to 『Samguksagi (三國史記)』's records, Baekje(百濟) established the dress color system in Goywang(古爾王) (260A.D,). Shilla(新羅) established it in Bupheungwang(法興王) (520A.D,). And Koguryo(高句麗) classified the social position with the headdress color. But the establishing time a dress color system is at issue with the establishing time of the official rank or government position.<br/> 1. Baekje(百濟) : The 16 official ranks were established over the 6th-7th centuries. The historical records of China about Baekje(百濟)'s dress color system were different according to the edited time. The examination of the historical records and the paintings of BaekJe(百濟)'s envoy proves that Baekje(百濟) established only Belt color system in the late 6th century. Baekje(百濟) established the dress color system according to the social position in the early 7th century.<br/> 2. Shilla(新羅) : A few government positions in 『Samguksagl(三國史記)』 Bupheungwang(法興王)'s records were established through 6th-7th centuries. Also the dress color of Shilla(新羅)'s envoy in "Wanghoido(王會圖)" is different from the literary records. Shilla(新羅) established the dress color system according to the social position in the early 7th century like BaekJe(百濟).<br/> 3. Koguryo(高句麗) : Differently from other two countries Koguryo(高句麗) didn't have the dress color system according to the social position. But with Lakwan(羅冠)'s color they distinguished the government official from commoners. And In the early 7th century, they classified the Lakwan(羅冠)'s color of government officials by the social position.<br/>

조선시대 남성 분묘 출토 적삼 고찰

권준희(Jun Hee Kweon),권영숙(Young Suk Kweon) 한국복식학회 2009 服飾 Vol.59 No.3

통일신라 (新羅) 내의 (內依) , 단의 (短依) 고

권준희(Jun Hee Kweon),조우현(Woo Hyun Cho) 한국복식학회 2002 服飾 Vol.52 No.2

Heungdukwang`s(興德王) costume ordinance(834A.D.) is a very important written historical record because it reveals Tongil Shilla`s(統一新羅) costume. But among the clothing pieces that appeared in Heungdukwang`s(興德王) costume ordinance, classification of Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣) is not clear. This study focuses on the categorization of Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣). Upper garments included among costume ordinance were Pyooe(表衣), Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣), Pyooe(表衣) and Naeoe(內衣) were unisex, while Danoe(短衣) was worn only by women excluding the lower class. Pyooe(表衣) is applicable to Po(袍), Naeoe(內衣) is applicable to Yu(유). Shilla`s(新羅) upper garments appearing in visual records are as follows : - With the exception of Pyooe(表衣), the length of men`s upper garments were between hip and knee length. These upper garments featured V-neck and round neck styles with the left side of the garments folded over the right side. - Again excluding Pyooe(表衣), women`s upper garments were similar to men`s upper garments having V-neck and round necklines. We know this to be true from the relics found during the excavations of Hwangsungdong and Yonggangdong, as well as from the women in the stone reliefs of Sangju. Although we know the shape of necklines, the length of upper garments remained a mystery, because women of that time tucked in their upper garments into the skirts and/or wore an over garment. However a clay doll found around Bulguksa(佛國寺) wearing a knee length garment with The upper garment was opened in the front and was worn over another garment with same length and round neckline. At that time, The upper garments found in China and Japan, were no much different than those found in Shilla(新羅). They also included garments that were waist length, had peach-shaped necklines, or were worn over head. Shilla`s(新羅) traditional upper garment was between hip and knee length, but with the introduction and influence of Chinese costume, upper garments with a length coming down to the high waist line began to appear. In addition to Chinese influence, because Shilla`s(新羅) women wore the upper garment first and then the lower garment, a long upper garment was not necessary. These shorter upper garments came to be known as `Danoe(短衣)` When we perceive clothing, we look at silhouette first and then the details. Silhouette is much determined by length and neckline or the front of the garment determines the details. So we need to attention to the basis of ancient dress classifications. These classifications were according to first length [Po(袍), Yu(유)] and then neckline [Danryoung(團領), Jingryoung(直領)] As a result, Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣) are classified by the length. The length of Naeoe(內衣) was between hip and knee length while Danoe(短衣) was waist length. Danoe(短衣) was worn by putting the bottom of it inside skirt while Naeoe(內衣) was worn over a skirt or pants. But both had V-neck and round neck styles, and styles with the left side of the garments folded over the right side.

고신라기 토우에 나타난 복식 연구

권준희(Jun Hee Kweon) 한국복식학회 2001 服飾 Vol.51 No.4

The purpose of this study is to examine the costume represented in human clay figures(土偶) of ancient Shilla dynasty. The results of this study could be summarized as follows : 1. Horse-riding clay figures of Gumryoung tomb(金鈴塚) At first, human-A wears a brimed-triangular hat(弁形帽), a jacket(유), a checked pants(袴). The brimed-triangular hat(弁形帽) is decorated with bird-feather shape(鳥羽飾). Besides, a jacket(유) is tied with a waist belt, and the waist belt is connected with a shoulder belt and a squared block(背板) of back. Also round bells(鈴)are decorated 15 in the hat, 4 in connection points of the waist belt and the shoulder belt, and 13 in the squared block of back(背板). Human-B wears a hairband type hempen hood(帶輪式 巾), a jacket(유), a pants(袴) with vertical stripes, and something is rounded from right shoulder to left side. It is one of the symbols as a shaman. 2. Other clay figures(土偶) The hats examined from other clay figures(土偶) are ① Triangular hat(弁形帽), ② Hat decorated with bird-feather shape(鳥羽冠), ③ Brimed hat and ④ Hairband type hempen hood(帶輪式 巾). Next, six kinds of hair styles examined are ① a topknot, ② a slanted topknot, ③ two topknots on both sides, ④ (round) chignon, ⑤ hair tied at the top and plastered down, and the last, ⑥ ponytailed style on both sides. The costume examined is a jacket(유) and a pants(袴).

조선시대 시복에 관한 연구 (1)

권준희(Jun Hee Kweon),이순원(Soon Won Lee) 한국복식학회 1999 服飾 Vol.48 No.-

The purpose of this study is to examine Sibok(時服) of king and prince in Choso˘n dynasty. In the first half of Choso˘n, the official uniform was not established. Sibok(時服) was worn for expediency. so there is a difference between Shillok(實錄) and Gukzooraeyi˘(國朝五禮儀), Sibok(時服) in Shillok(實錄) but Sangbok(常服), Chobok(朝服), Myounbok (冕服) in Gukzooraeyi˘(國朝五禮儀) as the costume of same ceremony. But we can recognize that king` Sibok(時服) in that process took the place of Gongbok(公服) of Korea dynasty, and was beyond simple working uniform though it was degraded than Gongbok(公服), Chobok(朝服), Myounbok(冕服). In the latter half of Chosen, the number of appearance of Sibok(時服) in Shillok(實錄) was largely decreased. in addition to it, in interpretation of Sibok(時服) it was regarded as Sangbok(常服). Especially prince` Sibok(時服) in a coming-of-age ceremony was regarded as an ordinary dress.

금관가야의 복식 연구 -관모(冠帽), 허리띠, 신발을 중심으로-

권준희 ( Jun-hee Kweon ) 한국의류학회 2019 한국의류학회지 Vol.43 No.4

This study examines Geumgwan Gaya's headgear, belt, and footwear. The relics excavated from tombs were examined first, then earthenware and clay figurines, followed by the visual data of related neighboring countries. The results are as follows. The headgear of Geumgwan Gaya, identified in the relics, is daegwan (帶輪式立飾冠) and lip (笠). Daegwan is a diadem with branch-shaped ornaments. It has an organic cap with fabric and leather as well as ties the strings to both ends of the diadem. Lip can be seen in the mounted figure of the earthenware. In neighboring countries, the top of lip is round or straight, but Geumgwan Gaya's lip is pointed and curved slightly backward. In addition, from neighboring countries' data, it is considered that the conical hat and gun (巾) are worn in Geumgwan Gaya. The belt is made of cloth or leather. Geumgwan Gaya also uses a belt with an animal-shaped hook and Jin style belt. Jin style belt shows the association with three-Yan culture of the Seonbi people in patterns and forms. Footwear of Geumgwan Gaya is li (履) and boots. Li included leather shoes, lacquer shoes, straw shoes and wooden shoes. In addition, there are leather boots decorated with round ornaments.

금관가야 남자 복식의 일러스트 제안

권준희(Jun-hee Kweon) 한국복식학회 2019 服飾 Vol.69 No.7

통일신라 왕릉의 석인상(石人像) 복식 연구(Ⅱ)

권준희(Kweon Jun-hee) 한복문화학회 2018 韓服文化 Vol.21 No.1

For this study, we examined the male costumes in the United Silla Era through Stone guardian figures, wearing a round-necked coat at royal tombs. The content of this study is as follows: First, the costumes worn by stone guardians are depicted, based on field investigation and 3D scan data. Second, the characteristics of costume are examined with reference to visual and literature historical records. Third, we compared and analysed the costumes of the Tang dynasty and ethnic groups of the West. Fourth, it is examined the implication of stone guardian’s costume, considering its relation between stone guardian wearing sleeveless armor(stone guardian1) and stone guardian wearing round-necked coat(stone guardian2). Stone guardian 2 is wearing a hairband, similar to Gun, which existed before Unification. Round-necked coat has narrow sleeve, side slit and foot length. This indicates that foot length co-existed with calf length in round-necked coat. The leather belt with metal ornaments is decorated with pochette and dagger. Boots have a round shoe cap, and their neck has a slope, high in the front and low at the back. It has been pointed out the similarity between the costume of Stone guardian 2 and Persia or Sogdian costume, based on the hairband and pochette. However, hairband was also worn in other regions of Central Asia and West Asia, making it difficult to define it solely as Sogdian tradition. Also, we have found the wearing of belt with hanging decoration of simple weaponry and pochette throughout Asia. Finally, Stone guardian figures of Unified Silla tombs are the result of embracing royal bodyguards’ costume of Tang dynasty. For costume of Stone guardians, it expresses the military-officials’ costume, and Stone guardian 1 is estimated to have higher social status than Stone guardian 2. Through Stone guardian 1, it shows the distinct feature of Silla especially through headgear. Moreover, the fact that Stone guardian 2 is wearing a hairband instead of bokdu is noted as the biggest difference between Silla and Tang. The combination of hairband and round-necked coat, furthermore, implicates diversity of the costume of Silla.

고신라기 여자 복식의 재현 연구

권준희(Kweon Jun-hee) 한복문화학회 2017 韓服文化 Vol.20 No.3

The purpose of this study is to present the prototype of female costumes in the Silla era by theoretical research and reproduction of female costumes. In order to this, theoretical research based on literature historical records and visual materials was conducted. Because the historical data of the Silla era was insufficient, the relics of neighboring countries and the Unified Silla period were also included if necessary. Theoretical research was made on hair style, headdress, jeogori(jacket), skirt, pants for each item first, then on the combination of them. Finally an actual costume according to social status was made based on the result. Hair styles were up style hair, chignon and ponytail. Headdress for woman was Gun. There were two kinds of jeogori. one was hip length and the other reached below the knees. There were skirt with stripes of many colors, pleated skirt and double skirt (a short skirt over a long skirt). Pants were also woman’s wear. They wore only one pants or put a skirt on pants. Four combinations of items were examined ;Jeogori · skirt, Jeogori · double skirt, Jeogori · pants, Jeogori · pants · skirt. Long jeogori · skirt and jeogori · double skirt were worn by woman of higher status than jeogori · pants, jeogori · pants · skirt and ordinary length jeogori · skirt. The higher the social status, the more decorative features was added. For example, border decoration of jeogori or double skirt. Also the higher the social status, the roomier clothes were worn. Actual clothes were made in five styles. Four styles were made of silk in purple, red and blue for noble woman. Among them, long jeogori · skirt and jeogori · double skirt were made in purple for the highest status. The other one style, ordinary length jeogori · skirt, was made of hemp in neutral color for common woman. As this research introduces the prototype of female costumes in the Silla era, this research can be used as a reference for creative design and reproduction of historical dramas. Also, it will be a chance to correct the public’s distorted perception of female costumes in the Silla era.

고구려와 신라의 절풍(折風)형 관모

권준희(Kweon Jun-hee) 한복문화학회 2003 韓服文化 Vol.6 No.3

This study specially focused on Jolpung(折風) shaped headgear of Koguryo(高句麗) and Shilla(新羅). They are similar in ‘ㄱ’ shaped adornment of the side forehead and adornment of the back. Various materials are compounded of metal, the bark of white birch, fabric. Also we can assume how to put on from the relic of Shilla(新羅). But the sideshape of Shilla(新羅)'s Jolpung(折風) shaped headgear has two types, round and straight. And the social status of wearer is almost same between Shilla(新羅) and Koguryo(高句麗). The inscription of Jungwonkoguryobi(中原高句麗碑) let us know that Shilla(新羅) and Koguryo(高句麗) are on terms of intimacy in the early 5th century. The king of Koguryo(高句麗) gives Shilla(新羅)'s king and government officials Koguryo(高句麗)'s costume. At that time, the fashion interchange between Shilla(新羅) and Koguryo (高句麗) occurs over the length and breadth of costume.<br/>