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비침습적 방법을 이용한 정상 한국인의 성별 , 부위별 , 피부특성 측정
고재숙 ( Jae Sook Koh ),채구석 ( Koo Seog Chae ),김형옥 ( Hyung Ok Kim ) 대한피부과학회 1998 대한피부과학회지 Vol.36 No.5
Background: During the last few years, the in vivo study of the physiological parameters of the skin by non-invasive methods has been considerably developed. So far, there have been some reports on the skin characteristics only in parts, but there has not been any criteria to classify those of normal subjects. Objective: The aim of the present study was to investigate the skin characteristics of healthy Korean subjects according to sex and sites using non-invasive methods. Methods : To determine normal levels of sebum, skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin elasticity and skin color according to sex, 163 subjects (male; 124, female; 39) were used to investigate 5 different anatomical sites. 6 different instruments were used: The Sebummeter SM 410, Corneometer CM 820, Evaporimeter EP1, Cutometer SEM 474, Chromameter CR-121, and Mexameter MX 16, for evaluating sebum excretion rate, capacitance, TEWL, mechanical property and skin color respectively. Results : Differences were noticed depending on the anatomical sites and sex. Most of the measuring parameters were significantly different according to sites and sex. The values of sebum levels, capacitance and TEWL were higher in the males on the cheek, forehead and crows foot, whereas in the females, higher values were observed on the dorsum of the hand. The skin elasticity varied considerably among the nine-parameters but, for the elastic ratio (R2, R5), the females showed significantly higher values than the males in all sites except the forehead. Skin lightness (L* value) was higher in the females, whereas the males showed lugher values in the category of redness (a* value) and yellowness (b* value). The values of the eqrthema index (EI) and melanin index (MI) were also higher in the males on all sites. Correlations between the skin parameters mentioned above were calculated. A negative, correlation between capacitance and TEWL was observed only on the cheek (male/female, r =-0.2/ r =-0.4, p<0.05). The L* value correlated negatively with MI. Mioreover the values between a* and El also showed sipificant correlations in the male (cheek and dorsum of hand, y =0.2, forehead and crows foot, r =0.3, p<0.05). There were considerably significant correlations between the visual pigmentation score and instrumental skin parameters in the males (visual pigmentation score vs. L* value measured by Chromameter ; cheek/crows foot, r = -0.3/y =-0.4, visual pigmentation score vs. MI by Mexameter ; cheek/crows foot, r =0.2/ r =0.4, viisual winkle score vs. sebum excretion rate measured by Sebumeter ; cheek, r=0.2, visual winkle score vs. elasticity parameters measured by Cutometer ; cheek, R2/R5/R7, r =-0.3/ r =-0.2/ r =-0.3, p<0.05). Conclusiom : Skin physiological parameters can be evaluated by non-invasive skin bioengineering methods which show quantitative modifications in physiological conditions in relation to sites and sex. (Korean J Dermatol 1998;36(5) 855-864)
CAMVA(Choriollantoic Membrane Vascular Assay)를 이용한 계면활성제의 자극 평가에 관한 연구
고재숙 ( Jae-sook Koh ),안수선 ( Su-sun An ),박종호 ( Jong-ho Park ) 대한화장품학회 1995 대한화장품학회지 Vol.21 No.1
생체내 피부 자극은 일련의 복합적인 생리 화학적 변화를 수반한다. 이러한 생체내 현상을 보다 민감하게 반영하고, 동물 시험 경감 측면 및 정확성, 재현성을 보완하기 위하여 자극 물질 검색을 위한 대체 시험법이 필요하게 되었다. CAMVA는 이러한 필요성에 의해 고안된 방법의 하나로써 약 10일된 유정란의 복합적인 혈관이 융합된 장뇨막내에 자극 물질을 투여하고 일정 시간 후, 막 내 혈관의 충혈, 출혈, 응집현상 등의 변화를 통해 자극 정도를 평가하는 in vitro 시험계이다. 본 연구에서는 화장품 영역에서 중요한 위치를 차지하는 계면활성제의 자극 정도를 검색하여 in vitro 시험법인 CAMVA와 in vivo 시험법간의 상관성을 조사하였으며, 그 결과 매우 높은 상관성을 나타냄을 알 수 있었다. 그러므로 CAMVA는 안 자극 시험의 대체 시험법 뿐만 아니라 피부자극의 예측에도 적용 가능한 유용한 시험법이라 생각된다. Skin irritations accompany the series of complex, physical and chemical changes. Alternative methods which reflect the biological phenomenon more sensitively are necessary for the purpose of reducing the animal tests and improving the accuracy and reliability. Chorioallantoic membrane (CAM) vascular assay is a in vitro method which utilizes the chorioallantoic membrane of hen's fertilized egg of about 10 days old. Test substances are placed directly onto the surface of the CAM and 1 hour later the CAM vasculature is subjectively evaluated to determine with a chemically related-injurious reponse including the appearance of haemorrage, congestion, coagulation, and so on. In this research, using the various surfactants, the correlations of CAMVA with in vivo models (intradermal safety test and human primary irritation test) were investigated. And CAMVA closely correlated to intradermal safety test (r=0.89) and human primary irritation test (r=0.90). From the result, it seems that CAMVA can also be used as a method for predicting the skin irritaions.
백지훈,고재숙 대한피부미용학회 2006 대한피부미용학회지 Vol.4 No.1
Water is the plasticizer of keratin, allowing the SC layer to bend and stretch, avoiding cracking and fissuring. Various techniques of skin hydration have been developed. However the electrical assessments have become very popular for their relative low cost, ease of use and portability. Electrical measurements include instruments using capacitance (CorneometerⓇ CM 825, C+K, Germany; MoistureMeterⓇ SC-2, Delfin Tech., Finland), those using conductance (SkiconⓇ 200, I.B.S., Japan) and those using impedance (Nova DPMⓇ 9003, Nova Tech. Corp., USA; DermaLab-Moisture ModuleⓇ, Cortex Tech., Denmark). The CorneometerⓇ CM 825 is less variable than the SkiconⓇ 200 and is good for assessing relatively dry skin. And it correlates well to the MoistureMeterⓇ SC-2. The SkiconⓇ 200 seems to have the least reproducibility and measures SC hydration of more superficial parts of the skin than to the CorneometerⓇ CM 825. The NOVA DPMⓇ 9003 appears as the least variable And it is more useful in assessing relatively high water content levels and the SkiconⓇ 200 does. In this study, we investigated many studies about electrical measurements and principles of commercial instruments to assess the hydration state on the skin surface.