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윤영애 진주여자전문대학 1995 論文集 Vol.18 No.-
The change and development of costume are related to the cultural and socioeconomic factors. Also, The culture of costume reflect the state of life which reflect the human's emotion and will. Throughout this first decade inspiration from classic sources ruled fashion. By 1800 outer garments had assumed the chief characteristics they were going to maintain until 1820 : : tall, slender, willowy silhouette : abnormally high waistline : light, supple, clinging fabrics : heelless footwear : addiction to scarves, stoles, and shawls. Styles of the late 1820s, which lasted well through the thirties, are distinct and recognizable wherever encountered. Shoulders spread to their greatest width ever, while skirts widened to maintain an appearance of balance. The diminutive waistline, by contrast, emphasized the exaggerated horizontal dimensions. Caprice reigned in both hairdress and headdress. Two events of the 1850s had a farreaching effect upon costume, one immediate and temporary, the other revolutionary and lasting. The first was the introduction of the hooped petticoat as a substitute for the many garments required to inflate skirts to the desired contour : the second was the invention of the sewing machine. The bulky residue of the very full skirt of the sixties, banked at the rear of the costume and supported by a sturdy substructure, produced the high bustled contour of the first few years. As the eighties opened, the pencil silhouette, which relied upon intricate manipulation of fabric for interest, was dominant. By 1881, however, the back skirt was biginning to bulge again and by 1884 it had reached its maximum extension. In this extreme form it endured through the midyears, declining gradually toward 1890. The sleeve has reached its maximum volume : the bosom is full and emphasized with added lace : the waistline is elongated, pointed, and laced to the point of distress : the skirt is smooth over the hips, gradually swinging out to sweep the floor. This is the much vaunted hourglass figure.
서구 의복 구성법의 변천에 관한 연구 : 입체화 과정을 중심으로 Particularly to the Process of the Draping Development
윤영애,강윤정 진주여자전문대학 1992 論文集 Vol.15 No.-
As the expression of life pattern, clothing style has changed and formed closely related to the various sectors of the community including natural enviornment and social enviornment in the changing process. Form the viewpoint of history, clothing style has changed constantly since ancient days and consequently construction has undergona many changes in accordance with the change of clothing culture. Chothing in ancient Egypt was cut as longish shape of one slice of cloth, which was composed of linear cutting, but that of Greece was composed of linear cutting using one-sheeted cloth in the shape of linear style without any specific cutting method. And in Greece, their method might be composed of natural drape of clothing with pin and cord. This method was called as draping as fundmental cutting method. This thesis intended to study the process of cutting development getting to fit to the body as cutting art in the middle Age. The reasons of the draping development can be summarized as following features : 1. Developments in the armour were found under the influence of the Crusade. 2. Center-front opening and the use of buttons which came from saracen were adopted to fit the clothes to the body. 3. Change in the religious concepts after the Crusadem has a tendency to make clear the humanistic concerns. 4. German costume has a basis to the hunting-life in the North-Western cold weather. Adoptation of loom through the ecconomic development, accumulation of wealth, and the development of city life after the collapes of the feudal system has made the fashion.