冕服의 十二章紋에 관한 硏究 : 象徵的 意味를 中心으로 = (A) Study on Twelve Patterns for Clothing for the Supreme Ruler : Centerign around the Pattern's Symbolic Significance

국문 초록 (Abstract)

본 硏究의 目的은 裝飾性과 象徵性이 가장 잘 표현되어진 紋樣중의 하나인 冕服에 施紋된 十二章紋을 그 시대의 思想과 政治理念을 내포하면서도 神話나 傳說을 象徵하는 내용을 담은 紋樣으로 보고, 그 由來를 中國의 神話와 傳說을 中心으로 살펴보고, 十二章紋에 내포된 象徵的 意味에 관해서 살펴보았다.
첫째, 이상적인 세계에 대한 동경을 神話에서 찾던 古代人들은 그것을 紋樣으로 표현해내었는데, 즉 十二章紋은 그 時代의 思想과 政治理念을 내포하면서도 神話나 傳說을 象徵하는 내용을 담은 紋樣이었다고 사료된다.
둘째, 冕服에 施紋된 十二章紋은 미적인 발상에서 기인하였다기 보다는 토템적이면서 신화적인 內面的 思想이 농축되어 표현된 紋樣으로 각기 다른 象徵的 意味를 내포하여 그 時代의 思想과 統治理念의 기초가 되었다고 사료된다.
셋째, 冕服에 施紋된 十二章紋을 통해 統治者는 百性에게 각 章紋의 특수한 目的이나 思想을 상징ㆍ보급하게 되고, 統治者에게는 章紋의 특수한 目的이나 思想을 충고하는 敎訓的 意圖로 사용되었는데, 이러한 章紋의 根本 情神은 어느 하나 美德과 善을 향하지 않은 것이 없으며, 곳곳에 尊天ㆍ隆祖ㆍ明禮ㆍ向善의 意圖가 담겨져 있는데, 이는 統治者의 權威와 威嚴을 표지하기 위해서 사용된 것으로 사료된다.
넷째, 동아시아 국제사회에서 中國과 里民族과의 관계를 규정하는 국제질서관념이었던 中華思想으로 인해 中國 주변국들까지도 冕服을 事大와 王權의 標信으로 삼게되었고, 冕服에 施紋된 十二章紋 또한 國家의 統治理念으로 널리 崇拜하였다고 사료된다.
마지막으로 十二章紋을 冕服에 施紋한 이유는 衣服을 통해서 儒敎的 秩序를 유지하려 했던 統治者들이 服飾속에 統治者의 意志를 담은 象徵的 紋樣을 넣고자 했는데, 이는 바로 天子를 정점으로 한 儒敎的 統治秩序를 대변하는 것이기 때문이었다고 사료된다.
이상과 같이 儒敎的 統治理念이 담겨있는 冕服에 施紋된 十二章紋은 古代 中國에서 漢代에 이르기까지 추구하여 온 時代精神이라 할 수 있는 儒敎思想과 道敎思想을 내포하고 있는 것으로, 王의 王權의 標信으로 삼기도 하였으며, 國家의 統治理念으로 널리 崇拜되어, 服裝을 통해서 최고의 權威와 威嚴을 象徵한 紋樣으로 儒敎的 질서유지와 政權을 유지하는데 중요한 의미를 가졌다고 본다.

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

Twelve patterns which were designed onto clothing for the supreme ruler are referred to as the best representation of ornamental and symbol features. In this study, this researcher reviewed Chinese myths and legends to determine how such patterns were introduced and what symbolic significances were involved with the twelve designs, under the assumption that the patterns had something to do with contemporary ideologies and political ideas and at the same time symbolized mythical and legendary aspects
First, people of the ancient times yearned for an ideal tried to reveal their own pursues for an ideal world by means of myths. This led to creating patterns. In other words, the twelve designs contained ideologies and political ideas and symbolized mythical and legendary aspects.
Second, the twelve patterns had concentrated the inner ideas of Totemism and myths rather than devised through aesthetic thoughts. So those patterns became bases on which contemporary ideologies and ruling ideas all were established in accordance with many different symbolic significances.
Third, the supreme ruler symbolized and distributed those patterns above mentioned to the public in oder to make them better understand objectives and ideas suggested by the designs. Those patterns also played a role as means to make the king himself disciplined about such objectives and ideas. ased on their own basic spirits, the twelve patterns oriented virtue and the good, and showed the ruler's authority and dignity by suggesting their own wills to respect for the heaven, the prosperity of the dynasty, pursue for well-being and the orientation of the good.
Fourth, the very idea of China orientation which had been initially that of international relationship between China itself and the rest nations of East Asia led China's neighboring countries to regard clothing for the king as the representation of flinkeyism as well as the royal power. For this reason, the twelve patterns were also generally worshiped as a part of the national ruling idea.
Finally the ruling class tried to express their own will by applying symbolic designs, that is, those twelve patterns onto have Confucian social order kept, representing the ruling idea of reign centering around the Chinese emperor.
In conclusion, the twelve patterns designed onto clothing for the loyal clothing implied Confucian idea of reign. In detail, those patterns reflected ideas of both Confucianism and Taoism both of which were contemporary spirits pursued during the period from the ancient China through the Chinese Han. The patterns were the very representation of loyal authority which was highly respected as a ruling idea of the state. Finally they were very signifiant in that they were the symbol of highest authority and dignity, eventually greatly contributing to maintain Confucianism-based social order and simultaneously the ruling power.

목차 (Table of Contents)

• 목차 = ⅲ
• Ⅰ. 序論 = 1
• 1. 硏究目的 = 1
• 2. 硏究範圍 및 方法 = 3
• Ⅱ. 冕服의 起源과 變遷 = 4
• 1. 冕服의 起源 = 4
• 2. 冕服의 制度와 變遷 = 7
• 가. 冕服의 制度 = 7
• 나. 冕服의 變遷 = 17
• Ⅲ. 十二章紋의 種類와 由來 = 22
• 1. 十二章紋의 種類 = 23
• 2. 十二章紋의 由來 = 30
• Ⅳ. 十二章紋에 관한 先儒學說의 比較 = 40
• Ⅴ. 十二章紋의 象徵的 意味 = 43
• Ⅵ. 結論 = 46
• 圖版 = 48
• 參考文獻 = 55
• ABSTRACT = 59