성인 여성의 기성복 치수와 패턴 그레이딩 간격 설정에 관한 연구 = (A) Study on the establishment of size range for women's ready-to wear and pattern-grading rules

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

The purpose of this study is to establish a suitable section for sizes of ready-to were according to the physique of Korean women and the pattern-grading rule.
The subject were 300 women's of 18∼25 years old, they were measured direct anthropometry.
This study intends to contribute to designing suitable functional clothes through summarizing information of a measured gauge, abstracting factors that consist of physique characteristics, grouping the types of physiques according to the characteristics, and then presenting the characteristics for each type of physique. Furthermore, this study established a section for sizes having a high hit ratio through compounding the standard sizes of KS and ISO, presented a section for sizes for each reference, and also calculated the grading rule according to cloth items.
The result of this study were as follows.
1. In accordance with measured gauges by percentile, the deviation was set. While deviation is established narrowly in the size section that has a high frequency distribution, deviation is established widely in the low- frequency section located outside the percentile. It is efficient that this ratio is utilized when establishing sections with differentiated sizes.
2. As a result of the factor analysis for the measuring gauge, there are 7 factors for the upper half of the body, including the degree of fatness, height, and length of arms, bust size, size of shoulders, length, size of neck, and sleeve cap, and the waist size. Then, there are 4 factors for the lower half of the body, including the degree of fatness, height, length of hips, and flatness are abstracted. It shows the order of importance to be considered in case of clothes design.
3. As a result of cluster analysis for a measured gauge, for the upper half of the body, tall and plump body types, tall and lean body types, short and normal body types, plump body types with normal height, and short and lean body types were classified as representative body types. Then, for the lower half of the body, there are the tall and plump body types, tall and a little lean body types, short and normal body types, plump body types with normal height, and short and lean body types and they were classified as representative body types.
4. In the groups according to the R hrer index, the standard body type took more than the average percent in distribution and the groups were classified as lean body type and plump body type, in that order. In groups with the Drop value, the N body type of Drop 6 took more than an average percent in distribution and the groups were classified as the H body type of Drop 0 and the A body type of Drop 12, in that order. On the other hand, as for height, the regular group of 160 cm section took 65%, the Petite group of 150cm section and the Tall group of 170cm section were classified, in that order. This distribution should be used when designing clothes and further, this distribution should be utilized in applying the design ratio.
5. In establishing sizes, the section with high application ratio is 155-160cm of height, and the distribution ratio is high in sections of 82-85cm for the bust, 64-70cm for the waist and 86-94cm for the hips. This result can be applied in case of the development of products as production ratio.
6. When establishing the section with a high distribution ratio by the type of physique of the upper half of body depends on KS, 4 sizes were compounded in the physique type of which Drop I is 3, and then 7 sizes were compounded in body type of which Drop I is 7, and then 5 sizes were compounded in body type of which Drop I is 11. Also, the three of the highest distribution ratio, 85-88-160, 85-92-160, and 85-96-160 were established as representative sizes. On the other hand, when establishing the section with a high distribution ratio by physique type of the lower half of the body, 5 sizes were compounded for body types of which Drop II is 20 and 13 sizes were compounded in body type of which Drop II is 24; and, 4 sizes were compounded for the body type of which Drop II is 28. Also, the three of the highest in distribution ratio, 160-67-88, 160-64-88, and 160-64-92 were established as representative sizes. The deviation value for references areas is utilized in the calculation of the value of the pattern grading rules and the values of the grading rules are shown in the Table presented in the result.
7. When establishing the section with a high distribution ratio by the type of physique of the upper half of body depends on ISO, 1 size were compounded in the physique type of which Drop I is 0, and then 6 sizes were compounded in body type of which Drop I is 6, and then 5 sizes were compounded in body type of which Drop I is 12. Also, the three of the highest distribution ratio, 92-92-160, 84-92-160, and 84-96-160 were established as representative sizes. On the other hand, when establishing the section with a high distribution ratio by the lower half of the body, 12 sizes were selected. Also, the three of the highest in distribution ratio, 64-88, 68-92, and 72-96 were established as representative sizes. The deviation value for references areas is utilized in the calculation of the value of the pattern grading rules and the values of the grading rules are shown in the Table presented in the result.