The purpose of this study is to investigate the structure of waist strips which were discovered from tombs of the Yeosan Song family located in Mokdal-dong, Daejeon, obtaining basic information including how to manufacture the strips and ultimately re...
The purpose of this study is to investigate the structure of waist strips which were discovered from tombs of the Yeosan Song family located in Mokdal-dong, Daejeon, obtaining basic information including how to manufacture the strips and ultimately reproducing them which were made in the early or mid period of Chosun. For the purpose, this researcher first examined the shapes and structures of all discovered waist strips that were manufactured in the Chosun period.
Findings of the study can be summarized as follows.
1. Dae means a strip that is worn around the waist. It, made in the Chosun period, can be largely classified into pobaekdae, jodae, hyeokdae and gwadae. This study focuses on jodae which is a thread-weaved waist strip. In terms of shape, jodae is classified into wonda hoedae which has a round cross section and gwangda hoedae whose cross section is wide and flat.
2. So far, all 18 pieces of waist strips, which were made in the Chosun period, have been discovered. Out of them, 7 are wonda hoedae which is classified into those of cylindrical style and straight-line style. Wonda hoedae of the former style consists of two parts, strip and decoration. The strip part has its two tips connected to each other. The other part is separately attached onto the strip. While, that of straight-line style has strip and decoration parts that are connected to each other to form a straight line. Thus two main parts of wonda hoedae are strip and decoration. Here, the decoration part is made of net and fringe. Here, the net helps the strip and decoration parts smoothly connected to each other and at the same time makes the waist strip as a whole look beautiful.
3. All 11 pieces of gwangda hoedae, which was worn in the period of Chosun, have been so far excavated. Unlike wonda hoedae, gwangda hoedae has only one style, or straight line. It largely consists of strip and decoration parts. Here, the latter part is made of lace net unlike the counterpart of wonda hoedae which is made of net and fringe.
4. Regarding waist strips of the early or mid Chosun period, which were found inside tombs of the Yeosan Song family, wonda hoedae and gwangda hoedae each one piece were discovered from Song Hyo Sang's tomb and one piece of wonda hoedae from Song Hee Jong's.
Each of the two pieces of wonda hoedae is cylindrical in style and has a net decorated on the joint of its two tips. Structurally, wonda hoedae from the Yeosan Song family's tombs is composed of strip and decoration parts. Out of the two, the latter part is made of net and fringe. Generally, the decoration part has only a net-wrapped bell or otherwise, both the bell and lace net. On top of the bell, there's about 1cm-length ring that makes it possible for the decoration part to move while hanging on the strip part. Below the net, whether bell-wrapping or laced, fringes have minute holes on the tip, quite differently from how to finish the end today.
Gwanda hoedae, found in one of the Yeosan Song family's tombs, is straight-lined in style. It consists of strip and decoration parts. Here, the latter part is made of lace net. Very precisely weaved, the lace net has fringes below it likely in wonda hoedae. The lace net also has some glittering area inside it.
5. The waist strips from the tombs of the Yeosan Song family were analyzed using FT-IR to fin that the inside and outside of the relics are respectively lined with silk and cotton threads. The glittering area of the lace net as mentioned above was identified as gold by an analysis using SEM-EDX.
6. This researcher investigated what method was used to waist strips in the Chosun period and, thereon, attempted to reproduce such strips, especially wonda hoedae which were discovered from the tombs of the Yeosan Song family. The attempt showed that it's always possible to reproduce all of the relics, discovered from the tombs, only if basic information on how to manufacture them is given.