조선시대 袞龍袍의 着用例 硏究

국문 초록 (Abstract)

조선의 王은 政事를 돌볼 때 常服이라 부르는 袞龍袍에 翼善冠을 착용하였다. 이 때문에 기존의 연구는 곤룡포의 상복적 기능에 초점을 맞추어 논의가 이루어졌다. 그런데 󰡔朝鮮王朝實錄󰡕이나 󰡔國朝五禮儀󰡕에 기록된 내용에 의하면 곤룡포는 常服 뿐만 아니라 五禮를 행할 때 禮服으로도 착용한 것으로 나타난다.
‘禮服’은 ‘의례의 본 행사에 입는 복식’으로 정의할 수 있는데, 吉禮․嘉禮․賓禮․軍禮․凶禮의 五禮를 행할 때 곤룡포를 입었다는 것은 이 옷이 해당 의식에 맞는 예복으로도 사용된 것을 알려준다. 따라서 본 연구는 조선시대의 곤룡포가 常服으로 규정되어 있으나 실제로는 禮服으로도 사용되었다는 관점에서 출발하였다.
연구방법은 우선 모호하게 제시되고 있는 곤룡포의 개념을 규정하고, 조선시대에 사용된 관련 용어를 살펴보았다. 다음으로 곤룡포가 중국에서 발생하여 우리나라에 전래되는 과정을 살펴보았다. 본론은 오례와 착용자를 중심으로 곤룡포 착용례를 연구하였다. 즉, 󰡔세종오례󰡕와 󰡔국조오례의󰡕를 통해 당시의 禮에 따른 복식 규정을 살피고, 󰡔조선왕조실록󰡕을 통해 곤룡포가 착용된 실례를 살폈다. 그리고 착용자 즉 왕․왕세자․왕세손의 곤룡포 착용례를 살펴본 결과는 다음과 같다.
첫째, 袞龍袍에서 ‘袞’은 ‘卷’과 같은 뜻으로 용이 둥글게 말리거나 몸을 비틀고 있는 모습을 나타낸다. 따라서 ‘袞龍’은 ‘卷龍’이고, 곤룡포는 ‘용이 둥글게 말린 모습이 있는 袍’ 혹은 ‘둥글게 말린 용을 표현한 袍’로 정의할 수 있다. 다시 말 하면 곤룡포는 ‘袞龍[卷龍]을 표현한 袍’를 일컫는 것이다. 그리고 곤룡포를 표현하는 용어는 󰡔조선왕조실록󰡕에는 곤룡포 외에 袞衣[卷衣]․袞服․袞袍․龍袍․龍衣․龍袞袍․袞龍服․袞龍衣 등 다양하게 나타난다. 이 중 袞衣․袞服․袞袍는 때로 면복을 의미하기도 하였으나 곤룡포를 의미한 경우도 있음이 확인된다.
둘째, 곤룡포는 중국으로부터 유래했으며 조선시대 이전부터 입었던 옷으로 추정할 수 있다. 조선시대 곤룡포의 기록은 세종 26년에 사여된 常服 一襲에서 처음으로 보인다. 그러나 󰡔고려도경󰡕에 왕의 常服에 대한 기록이 있고, 일연이 쓴 󰡔삼국유사󰡕에 ‘龍袞’이 보인다. 史料부족으로 ‘龍袞’을 곤룡포라 단정할 수는 없으나 󰡔조선왕조실록󰡕에도 龍袞袍가 곤룡포를 지칭한 경우가 나타나므로 이들이 곤룡포를 의미할 가능성을 배제할 수는 없다. 따라서 곤룡포는 조선시대 이전에 있었을 가능성이 있다.
셋째, 조선시대 곤룡포는 視務服 곧 常服으로 입었는데, 이외에 五禮에 따라 出․還宮 등의 경우 뿐 만 아니라 行禮에 禮服으로 착용하기도 하였다. 즉 착용례를 분석한 결과 곤룡포가 예복으로 쓰인 것은 다음의 네 가지 경우가 있음이 확인된다. ① 면복 대신 착용한다. 이는 中宗의 登極儀에서 사례가 나타난다. ② 강사포 대신 착용한다. 이는 敎書頒降儀와 師傅賓客儀에서 사례가 나타난다. ③ 면복을 입는 것보다 낮은 등급의 의례에서 착용한다. 대표적 사례로 謁廟儀에서는 면복을 착용하나 이보다 낮은 親祭儀․文廟祭 등의 제례에서는 곤룡포를 行禮服으로 입는다. ④ 같은 의례 상황이라도 시기에 따라 면복과 곤룡포를 선택하여 입는다. 이는 迎詔․勅書儀가 대표적인데 조선 초기 뿐만 아니라 후기에도 이러한 경향이 나타난다. 따라서 곤룡포가 조선 초기에 上位服으로서의 역할을 하다가 光海君대 이후 常服의 의미로 변천되었다는 견해는 수정되어야 할 것으로 본다.
넷째, 착용자에 따라 곤룡포를 비교한 결과 각 신분별로 세부사항에서 차이가 있음을 확인할 수 있었다. 즉 곤룡포의 色, 곤룡포에 부착하는 補에 표현된 용의 발톱 수, 帶의 재료 및 투각 여부 등에 차이를 두어 신분을 나타냈다.
왕의 곤룡포 색은 大紅․絳 등 적색계통이며 五爪龍補를 사용하였다. 왕세자의 곤룡포 색은 흑색․아청이고, 四爪龍補를 사용하였다. 왕세손은 왕세자와 색이 같으나 어깨를 뺀 가슴과 등에 三爪의 方龍補를 사용하였다. 그리고 대한제국기에 들어선 이후 황제의 곤룡포는 황색을, 황태자는 홍색을 사용하였다. 補는 황제와 황태자 모두 오조룡보를 사용하는데, 황제의 보에는 일월문을 넣어 구분하였다.

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

A king in the Joseon Dynasty wore the Gonryongpo(Royal Robe) and Ikseongwan(crown), which were called Sangbok(habitul dress), when he was taking care of the affairs of state. Because of the fact, the existing studies carried out the discussions focusing on the Gonryongpo's function as a habitual dress. By the way, according to the records in the Joseonwangjosillok(True Record of Joseon Dynasty) or Gukjooryeeui(Five Types of Royal Court Ceremony), the king wore the Gonryongpo not only as the habitual dress but also as the formal dress during the five types of ceremony.
Yebok(formal dress) can be defined as the 'dress and its ornament worn in the main events of ceremonies', and it can be understood that the Gonryongpo was the formal dress which was in accord with the ceremonies based on the fact that kings wore the dress when the five ceremonies, such as Gilrye(congratulatory ceremony), Garye(auspicious ceremony), Binrye (guest treating ceremony), Gunrye(Military ceremony) and Hyeungrye(funeral ceremony) were performed. Dynasty wore the Gonryongpo as a formal dress even though the dress was defined as the habitual dress.
As for the method of this study, first of all the concept of Gonryongpo, of which the concept has been presented vaguely, was defined, and the related words used in the dynasty were searched for. And then, the introduction process to our country from China where the Gonryongpo originated. In the main subject, the case study of wearing Gonryongpo was performed, being centered on the five types of ceremony and the wearer. So to speak, the regulations of wearing dress and ornaments complying with the court propriety at the time through "Sejongorye" and "Gukjooryeeui" were examined closely, and the instances in which the Gonryongpo was worn examined too, through the records in the Joseonwangjosillok.
And the Gonryongpo wearing cases of the king, the crown prince and the eldest grandson of the king were examined. Through the examinations, the following matters were identified and presumed.
First, the chinese letter "Gon" from the Gonryongpo has the same meaning as "Gwon", which presents the shape of a dragon which roll up or twist its body. So, the "Gonryong" is equal to the "Gwonryong", and the Gonryongpo can be defined as "Po(robe)which has the shape of a dragon rolling up its body round" or the "Po(robe) which expresses a dragon rolled up round". In short, the Gonryongpo can be reputed to be the "Po which represents "Gonryong[Gwonryong]. And the words representing the Gonryongpo appear in various forms, such as Goneui ? Gonbok ? Gonpo ? Yongpo ? Yongeui ? Yonggonpo ? Gonyongbok ? Gonyongeui, other than Gonryongpo in the Joseonwangjosillok. Among them, Goneui ? Gonbok ? Gonpo were used to mean the "Myeonbok" from time to time, but it was identified that they referred to the Gonryongpo.
Second, the Gonryongpo originated from China and it can be assumed that it was worn even before the Joseon Dynasty. The first record of Gonryongpo showed up as the suit of habitual dress given privately in the 26th year of King Sejong. But the record of habitual dress of a king appeared in the "Goryeodogyeong", and the record of "Yonggon" appeared in the "Samgukyusa" written by Ilyeon. Due to the shortage of historical records, it may not be correct that "Ryongeui" is a word related to the Gonryongpo, but the possibility shall not be excluded because there were some cases where the "Ryongeuipo" designated the Gonryongpo in the Joseonwangjosillok. So, there is a possibility that the Gonryongpo existes even before the Joseon Dhyansty. Third, in the Joseon Dhyansty the Gonryongpo was worn as an Simubok (official dress), the habitual dress, besides that it was worn as the "Ryebok"(formal dress) in Haengrye(carrying out ceremony) as well as in the case the king was going out or coining into the palace, according to the "Orye"(five types of ceremony). So to speak, after the analysis of Gonryongpo wearing cases, the four cases where the Gonryongpo was worn as the Yebok(formal dress) were identified.
① It was worn replacing the "Myeonbok". This happened in the case where the King Jungjong's enthronement ceremony.
② The Gonryongpo was worn replacing the "Gangsapo". This appears at the cases of the "Gyoseobangangeui" and "Sajeonbingaekeui"
③ It was worn in the lower level of ceremonies than the ceremonies where the kings had to wear the "Myeonbok". The typical case was that the king had to wear the "Myeonbok" in the "Almyoeui", but the king wore the Gonryongpo at the rituals like "Gyuchaleui" ? "Munmyoje" as the ceremony dress, which were the lower level ceremonies than the "Almyoeui".
④ Though the ceremonies were in the similar situations, the "Myeonbok" or the Gonryongpo was selected according to the time. The "Angso" and the "Chikseoeui" were the typical cases for this, and the trend took place in the late Joseon as well as in the early Joseon Dynasty. Therefore, the opinion, in which the Gonryongpo played the role of the super ordinate dress at the early period of Joseon and changed into the meaning of the habitual dress at era of the king Gwanghaegun, seems to be modified.
Fourth, as the result of comparison of the Gonryongpo among the wearers, it was identified that there were differences in details according to the position of the wearers. It was intended to show the position of the wearer by making differences in the color, the number of nails of the dragon on the "Bo" which was attached to the Gonryongpo, the material of the "Dae"(belt) and the existence or nonexistence of brattishing on it. The color of the king's Gonryongpo was in the series of red color like "Daehong", "Gang", and the "Ojoryongbo" was used in it.
The color of the crown prince's Gonryongpo was black ? blue, and the "Sajoryongbo" was used in it. The color of the crown grand prince's Gonryongpo was the same as the crown prince's one, but the "Bangryongbo" with "Samjo" were attached on the chest and the back, except for the shoulders. As the history was coming into the era of "Daehanjeguk", the Gonryongpo of emperor was yellow and the crown prince's one was red.
As for the "Bo", the "Ojoryongbo" was used in both the emperor's and the crown prince's Gonryongpo, but emperor's "Bo" was distinguished by putting the "Ilwolmun" in it.

목차 (Table of Contents)

• 제1장 머리말 = 1
• 1. 연구 배경 및 의의 = 1
• 2. 연구 방법 = 3
• 3. 연구 범위 및 목표 = 4
• 제2장 袞龍袍의 개념 및 관련 용어 = 5
• 1. 개념 = 5
• 2. 관련 용어 = 6
• 제3장 袞龍袍의 由來 및 傳來 = 17
• 1. 由來 = 17
• 2. 傳來 = 29
• 제4장 五禮중심으로 본 着用例 = 33
• 1. 吉禮 = 33
• 2. 嘉禮 = 39
• 3. 賓禮 = 52
• 4. 軍禮 = 54
• 5. 凶禮 = 55
• 제5장 착용자에 따른 袞龍袍 = 61
• 1. 王·皇帝 = 61
• 2. 王世子·皇太子 = 81
• 3. 王世孫 = 86
• 제6장 맺음말 = 89
• 참고문헌 = 92
• （Abstract） = 95