19세기 이후 여자 저고리 봉제 변천에 관한 실증적 연구 = An Empirical Study on the Change Sewing Method in Women's Jeogori since the 19th Century

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

This study was to examine the change the sewing method of the Jeogori according to the seven historical periods from 1864, the end of the Yi Dynasty to 1999, the end of the 20th century.
This study is to help preserve the pictorial records, the traditional Korean Hanbok and its ornaments, which are slowly disappearing.
The Jeogori samples were collected from those of between 1864 and 1999.
There were Jeogori samples 687 in total. There were 7 Jeogori types: the single-layered Jeogori, the double-layered Jeogori, the triple-layered Jeogori, the quilted Jeogori, the cotton-padded Jeogori, the single-layered Jeogori on inner vest. and the double-layered Jeogori with a triple-layered body. The data were analyzed by ANOVA and Duncan's multiple range test as post hoc and Pearson's correlation using the SPSS Windows 12. statistical package.
The summary of this study is as follows:
1. The total of 687 Jeogori samples were divided into 7 periods.
The period of the end of Yi Dynasty (1864-1909) had 26 specimens The period of Japan's colonial rule (1910-1945) had 165 pieces. The period of recovery after liberation (1946-1960) had 191 pieces The period of industrialization (1961-1970) had 107 samples. The period of advanced industrialization (1971 -1980) had 76 pieces The period of economic stabilization (1981-1990) had 67 pieces. And the period of globalization (1991-1999) had 55 pieces.
2. After analyzing the characteristics of the needlework for each Jeogori, it was noted that there were various methods used for sewing and processing the margin to sew UP the single-layered Jeogori. The shoulder part was the most finely stitched, and the collar part was the least finely stitched.
There was no variety in the needlework method for the double-layered Jeogori, and the collar was usually attached using glue rather than sewn. The construction method of the cotton-padded Jeogori was the same as that of the double-layered Jeogori Blinded top stitches and running stitches were used to fix the cotton-padding and thecloth. The front hemline and the sleeve opening of the quilted Jsogori were constructed using various methods to process the trimmed lines. The ggaeggijeogori was constructed using double-stitching and had a seam that was not roll-stitched, and there were many cases where the collar had a sewn margin with a thin biased line.
3. For the closing of the .eogori, strings, buttons, loops, brooches and button knots wereused. Especially 66 button knots were found in the single-layered Jeogori during the period of recovery after liberation, 45 button knots in the single-layered Jeogori during the period of Japan's colonial rule, and various small patches were found to fix the loops, which were the squared shape, the regular pentagonal shape and the five-cornered shape.

목차 (Table of Contents)

• 〈Abstract〉
• 1. 연구의 의의
• 2. 연구 목적
• 3. 저고리 봉제특성 분석
• 4. 결론
• 참고문헌

참고문헌 (Reference)

1 이주원, "한복구성학" 경춘사 45-, 1992

2 유희경, "한국복식문화사" 교학사 181-183, 1998

3 김숙당, "조선재봉전서" 민속원 8-, 1995

4 박선영, "전통한복 구성학" 수학사 15-, 2001

5 김영자, "咸英喜女史 手澤 服飾·付物의 硏究" 충북대학교 박물관 77-, 1988