통일신라 (新羅) 내의 (內依) , 단의 (短依) 고

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

Heungdukwang`s(興德王) costume ordinance(834A.D.) is a very important written historical record because it reveals Tongil Shilla`s(統一新羅) costume. But among the clothing pieces that appeared in Heungdukwang`s(興德王) costume ordinance, classification of Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣) is not clear. This study focuses on the categorization of Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣). Upper garments included among costume ordinance were Pyooe(表衣), Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣), Pyooe(表衣) and Naeoe(內衣) were unisex, while Danoe(短衣) was worn only by women excluding the lower class. Pyooe(表衣) is applicable to Po(袍), Naeoe(內衣) is applicable to Yu(유). Shilla`s(新羅) upper garments appearing in visual records are as follows : - With the exception of Pyooe(表衣), the length of men`s upper garments were between hip and knee length. These upper garments featured V-neck and round neck styles with the left side of the garments folded over the right side. - Again excluding Pyooe(表衣), women`s upper garments were similar to men`s upper garments having V-neck and round necklines. We know this to be true from the relics found during the excavations of Hwangsungdong and Yonggangdong, as well as from the women in the stone reliefs of Sangju. Although we know the shape of necklines, the length of upper garments remained a mystery, because women of that time tucked in their upper garments into the skirts and/or wore an over garment. However a clay doll found around Bulguksa(佛國寺) wearing a knee length garment with The upper garment was opened in the front and was worn over another garment with same length and round neckline. At that time, The upper garments found in China and Japan, were no much different than those found in Shilla(新羅). They also included garments that were waist length, had peach-shaped necklines, or were worn over head. Shilla`s(新羅) traditional upper garment was between hip and knee length, but with the introduction and influence of Chinese costume, upper garments with a length coming down to the high waist line began to appear. In addition to Chinese influence, because Shilla`s(新羅) women wore the upper garment first and then the lower garment, a long upper garment was not necessary. These shorter upper garments came to be known as `Danoe(短衣)` When we perceive clothing, we look at silhouette first and then the details. Silhouette is much determined by length and neckline or the front of the garment determines the details. So we need to attention to the basis of ancient dress classifications. These classifications were according to first length [Po(袍), Yu(유)] and then neckline [Danryoung(團領), Jingryoung(直領)] As a result, Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣) are classified by the length. The length of Naeoe(內衣) was between hip and knee length while Danoe(短衣) was waist length. Danoe(短衣) was worn by putting the bottom of it inside skirt while Naeoe(內衣) was worn over a skirt or pants. But both had V-neck and round neck styles, and styles with the left side of the garments folded over the right side.