조선후기 여자 저고리 단소화와 상징적 의미

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

This study aims to analyze the shortening tendency of women`s hanbok chogori (upper part of the Korean traditional dress) in the latter period of Chosun in three respects-socially, economically, and aesthetically. First, from the social point of view, sexual role and social status were examined. The strict sexual roles between males and females made the latter inferior to the former. The relatively lower sexual role had the woman look receptive and passive and wear a short and narrow kind of chogori. Also, the confusion of the social status system weakened the function of the costumes to differentiate social classes and, consequently, almost all classes wore short chogori. Second, the economic progress in the wake of the commerce-centered positivism at that time helped raise the economic status of the middle and low classes. As a result, with their social and economic status elevated, they tried to wear somewhat luxurious chogori. Third, aesthetically speaking, erotically-looking and much-shortened chogori derived from the weakened male-centered Confucian traditional ethics in conflict with the humanitarian positivism.