조선조 치마 재고 = 16 세기 출토복식을 중심으로

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

A large quantity of exhumed clothing found for recent 20 years has become the material for making a concrete clarification of the sturcture of clothing in the Chosun dynasty. Exhumed clothing means the clothing found in the coffin when the grave of the ancestor buried several hundred years ago is removed to another place, and it is almost comprised of ordinary clothes of the grave-owner, not mourning clothes, as well as clothing and ornaments in the period between the 15th century and the 19th century. This research is intended to inquire into the kind of chimas in the 16th century before the Imjin Japanese Invasion of Korean during 1592∼1598. The after effect of the Imjin Japanese Invasion was generally reflected in clothiing them, and the sturcture of clothing in the Chosun dynasty beagan to overshadew its dichotomy with the Imjin Japanese Ivasion of Korea as the point. Accordingly, this research is concerned with the study of the chima system of the early Chosun dyansty, which shows that there is a common point of the identical form though clothing was exhumed in different graves. Therefore, it was possible to grasp women`s clothing that was fashionable at that time. The object for research is the women in the upper class of the 16th century, whose representative characteristics are depicted as follows : 1. Women in the upper class wore the splendid clothing similar to the ordinary clothing of court ladies. 2. The division of ordinary chima and ceremonial chima appeared in the concrete. 3. Ceremonial chima had its extra width and length and exhibited its exaggerated silhouette. In particular, it had a various forms of over-pleats made at its center front, which play a role in supplementing discomfort in walking, This associate bustle and crinolin styles, through which the modern design of clothing can be glimpsed. 4. The opposite phenomenon was shown that has been perceived up to now, such as folding at the right, plain seam, the treatment of the edge and the like. 5. The elaboration of manual needlework shows the culmination of wonen`s workmanship.